Page 1 of 4 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 35
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Eugene OR
    Posts
    1,619

    Default GI to GIII with reversible pumps, 08 OBV

    Gi to GIII with reversible pumps, 08 OBV

    So I finished my GI to GIII after several years or planning and redesigning. Thank you group buy for the deal in the reversible pumps. I will start off this is not a simple plug it in and go install. You need some knowledge of plumbing and electrical to do this. I am missing some photos since I was taking the photos with my phone and it went belly up. I might also be missing a step since I am recreating it from my memory. I got my parts from Home Depot and Wakemakers.com. I will try to provide links on each part to help you out.
    Please note I used 3/4 right now because I did not want to replace out the current 3/4 connection during the summer. My winter project will be replacing out all the lines with 1”.

    Needed parts.
    3/4 tube. I used clear so I can see the water flow. I do not know how much I used since I keep changing where things set.
    3/4 T – brass X 2 - http://www.wakemakers.com/3-4-brass-tee.html
    3/4 shutoff ball valve X 2 - http://www.wakemakers.com/brass-ball-valve-3-4.html
    3/4 thread to 3/4 hoes connection X 6. - http://www.wakemakers.com/3-4-thread...b-adapter.html
    3/4 hose T X 1 - http://www.wakemakers.com/3-4-inch-hose-barb-tee.html
    3/4 thread to 3/4 hoes 90*. Link is for a 1” but you will get the point. http://www.wakemakers.com/1-inch-thr...w-adapter.html
    Three reversible pumps – I used Johnson pumps. http://www.wakemakers.com/johnson-ul...last-pump.html
    12 gauge wire. Around 60 feet. http://www.wakemakers.com/12-awg-2-c...pump-wire.html
    12 gauge female crimp terminal X 27 ish . - http://www.wakemakers.com/12-awg-cri...-terminal.html
    14-16 gauge male crimp terminal X 6.
    Rocker switch X 3 - http://www.wakemakers.com/supra-moom...st-switch.html
    Inline fuse holder. I used 12 Gauge but the photo is from a 16 gauge. http://www.wakemakers.com/16-awg-inl...se-holder.html
    20 Amp fuses X 3. One per pump. You can find that at your local auto part store or home depot.
    12 gauge ring terminals X 6
    Two bags for the rear compartments. I used 400LBS fly high I got from someone that upgraded to 700’s.
    You will also need all the fittings to connect the hoes to the bags. http://www.wakemakers.com/fly-high-p...ting-w742.html
    Hose clamps. After using the 3/4 ones they are a pain to get on so step up to ones that can go down to 3/4 but also can go up to 1” - Not sure if these can but you get the idea. http://www.wakemakers.com/1-inch-hose-clamp.html
    Electrical tape and plumbers tape. I keep forgetting mine at home and now have about 6 rolls of the stuff.
    Bolts – nuts and washers
    A board to mount the pumps on. I did a Teflon board.

    Tools you will need:
    Electrical tools to cut/strip and crimp on the connections.
    Voltage meter.
    Screw driver
    Drill with different bits
    Socket set
    Crescent wrench.
    A tool to cut the hose. I recommend buying one and not using a knife or else you will spend a lot of your day cutting down hose.
    A hole saw.
    soldering iron.
    Table saw
    Jig saw
    Ok now down to business:
    There are really two main parts. The electrical and the pluming.
    The first part is to remove everything from the thru haul fitting to the hoes that goes to the front bag.
    Install the T and the shutoff values. Past the shutoff values install the threaded 3/4 to hose connections. One on each side.

    Next you will need to mount the pumps on the board. This board will be installed on top of the V-Drive unit where the GI sprinkler value is installed. You will have to remove the metal plate and my new plate will be bolted in the same place. That photo is to come late.

    I did some of the pluming outside of the boat. Two of the pumps are connected together using the hose T adaptor.

    Because of the location of the pumps I needed to use some of the 3/4 thread to 3/4 hose connections that are straight and some that are the 90*s.
    Each pump has a 3/4 thread to 3/4 hose since the pumps you can do a 1” direct to the pump.
    Now that the pumps are mounted to the plate you can install it on the V-Drive unit.

    NOTE: you cannot install the left pump until after the plate is mounted to the V-Drive unit. On my plate there are two holes behind the left pump that I made line up with the holes that metal plate was attached too.
    2008 Outback V
    “Do not wait; the time will never be “just right.” Start where you stand, and work with whatever tools you may have at your command, and better tools will be found as you go along." -Napoleon Hill

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Eugene OR
    Posts
    1,619

    Default

    Pump on the left goes to the right ski locker, center pump goes to the center ski locker and the right pump goes to the port locker bag.
    The last step is to run the lines to the bags. On the port side of the boat I used the hole saw to cut out a hole in the black plastic between the locker and the engine compartment. (Photo to come later).
    For the center hose I just cut down the hoes and plugged it in.
    I ran a hose from the thru haul T to the left pump and the center/right pump to the T that was installed earlier.


    Now on to the electrical.
    First is since these are reversible pumps the positive and negative need to have several connections to allow the positive and negative to be switched depending if you are filling or draining.
    This is where soldering fun comes in.


    The next part is to use shrink tubing to make sure everything is good.
    2008 Outback V
    “Do not wait; the time will never be “just right.” Start where you stand, and work with whatever tools you may have at your command, and better tools will be found as you go along." -Napoleon Hill

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Eugene OR
    Posts
    1,619

    Default

    The next is to connect the inline fuses to the cables to the switches. This I also soldered.
    Then since the switches require two negative lines to make sure the lights work I took the negative line and did the same thing as above.
    After everything was soldered I put the cables into the bundle and ran them from the front of the boat to the back.
    I ran the power on the right side of the boat above the speakers then followed the fuel line down to the fuel tank There is a little gap area that the fuel line runs down that allow you to hide the cables. Zip ties are your friend. (More photos to come later)


    Once the cables are in the back by the pumps it is as easy as plugging them in. This is where I used the male and female terminal connections to switch them around depending if I hook up the switches backwards.

    2008 Outback V
    “Do not wait; the time will never be “just right.” Start where you stand, and work with whatever tools you may have at your command, and better tools will be found as you go along." -Napoleon Hill

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Eugene OR
    Posts
    1,619

    Default

    New we are on to make a switch plate. I first did a template of the size I need for the switch.

    After I had the size I made the plate using a jig saw and table saw.


    I installed the switch plate under the other switches. I do not know if I like this location yet that is why I have slack on the cables.
    2008 Outback V
    “Do not wait; the time will never be “just right.” Start where you stand, and work with whatever tools you may have at your command, and better tools will be found as you go along." -Napoleon Hill

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Eugene OR
    Posts
    1,619

    Default




    After the switch plate was installed it is time to wire up the switches. The switches come with a document on how they should be wired up. Easy to follow. (photos to comes later)

    Now the test. Other then needing to switch around two of the pumps everything worked as planned. Bags filled and emptied with the touch of a finer.
    2008 Outback V
    “Do not wait; the time will never be “just right.” Start where you stand, and work with whatever tools you may have at your command, and better tools will be found as you go along." -Napoleon Hill

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Eugene OR
    Posts
    1,619

    Default

    You will notice I did not drill thru the haul because that I need more beer to do. So for the vent I just ran the hose to the speaker locations then when I fill I will just push it overboard until I get enough nerve to do this.





    Now I drained the bags on land to makes sure lots of water was coming out.



    Sorry for all the posts but I am limited to 4 photos per post.
    2008 Outback V
    “Do not wait; the time will never be “just right.” Start where you stand, and work with whatever tools you may have at your command, and better tools will be found as you go along." -Napoleon Hill

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    Sunnyvale, CA
    Posts
    229

    Default

    Hey Jester that looks great! I finished my upgrade to Tsunami 800's and had lots of issues... I should have listened to wakemakers before, but I was also uneasy about drilling holes. However now after removing my factory thru hull intake and taking a big chunk of gelcoat with it, I found that the fix was not that difficult. I have ordered all the new stuff with the group buy to go with the Johnson pumps. I am glad to see you went that route for the first install rather than a redo like me. Were there any issues that stick out in your mind I should look out for?
    2008 MOBIUS LSV - Acme 1847, GIII w/1100lbs Vdrive, IBS, PPSG, Wake plate, Z-5, Kenwood 700U, Kenwood Kca-RC107MR , Exile SXT65, Kicker 700.5, Kicker 350.4, Polk MM651, JL 13.5 Thin-Line Sub.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Location
    Land O Lakes, Florida
    Posts
    5,697

    Default

    very impresive, wish I had done this--may still
    Hey, Its Moomba time

    13 Mobius LSV
    08 Mobius LSV-sold
    03 Mobius LSV-sold

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Eugene OR
    Posts
    1,619

    Default

    08 LSV, I was going down the Tsunami 800's route and kept running into issues. Going the reversible option is a much better way to go. Good to know about the removal of the current thru haul. I will keep that in mind and might just drill a new intake.

    For issues with the install it was most of my own issues like being under the dash and dropping the screw driver on my head a few times. Photos of the fuses and how that is run will be tomorrow after i get off the lake. Once I had all the parts the install was kind of fast. One thing i would do differntly would be to leave more wire on the ends that I soldered that go into the switches. It was a bit short on the cables but i was still able to make it work.
    2008 Outback V
    “Do not wait; the time will never be “just right.” Start where you stand, and work with whatever tools you may have at your command, and better tools will be found as you go along." -Napoleon Hill

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Location
    saskatchewan, canada
    Posts
    304

    Default

    nice, clean install, looks super good!
    2005 Mobius LSV

    Gravity IV (750s rear, 400 mid and 650 bow)
    wakeplate, perfect pass,

    Not sure what stereo I have, but I have 3 amps 2 subs 6 x 6.5 mids and tweets and 4 tower speakers ( 2 x 8 inch and 2 x 6.5 and tweets)

    Fuel Injected
    1433 acme prop

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •