We are looking at doing a budget stereo upgrade. Looking at possibly buying a Kicker ZX 700.5 off Ian on the forum. We currently just have the 4 inboat kicker speakers with no amp.
Looking to add the amp and a sub.
First of all - Will a second battery be absolutely required for this setup? (We are thinking that we will add another battery anyway as we like to sit with the boat off on the water and listen to music)
Second - What/If any materials or extra equipment will we have to purchase to connect speakers to the amp/head unit
Third - Opinions on subs, Looking at the KM10 subbox, only curious to how that mounts or buying a KM10 and then creating a custom box (no experience doing this) If anyone has any used subs for sale that might work for us I would definitely be interested for the right price
Results 1 to 10 of 41
Thread: Stereo Newb - Kicker Sub and Amp
01-19-2012, 12:31 PM #1
Stereo Newb - Kicker Sub and Amp
01-19-2012, 02:06 PM #2
1. I personally don't think it is required but for peace of mind it would be nice. It isn't too difficult
2. see below ...
A. You will need 2 power/ground wire (4 awg) from battery to amp. You will also want an inline fuse for one of those lines
B. You will need 12 awg speaker wire to run from your amp to your sub. Depending on the location of your current equipment, it may be easiest to just rewire all the in boat speakers as well. You could buy a large roll to do it all
C. You will need RCA's to stretch from head unit to amps. Also a remote wire to span the same distance.
3. Don't know but I have a 10" Kenwood Excelon I'd consider selling for the right price
Someone with more knowledge can chime in on more specifics. Some info that might help them ...
1. Where is your head unit?
2. Where do you plan to put the amp?
3. Where is your battery?
4. Where are you wanting to put the sub?2006 Supra 24SSV
01-19-2012, 02:49 PM #3
if you're hu is in the jockey box, this would be cake. if it's in the dash, you will need to run rca's to the amp location.
most put it in the pass. storage cubby. assuming your battery is there as well, that will be a pretty simple install.
need to answer kg's questions above and you will get very detailed answers..
the kenwood sub would be a good choice for an entry level sub and should sound good in the right box. under the drivers dash in the front of the footwell is typically the location of choice...'06 Supra Launch 20SSV-gone but never forgotten
01-19-2012, 03:12 PM #4
1. Head unit is to the right of the steering wheel, so in the general dash area.
2. I was thinking of putting the amp under the glove box storage (where I've seen most people put it) and drill it to a panel installed in there? (Would a better place be by the drivers feet for ease of access to head unit?)
3. Battery #1 is in the Port rear seating area. Under the very back corner seat cushion. Battery #2 am planning on running everything under the seats passed the cooler to under the glove box storage by the amp
4. Sub by drivers feet
Last edited by ryan_8099; 01-19-2012 at 03:19 PM.
01-19-2012, 04:31 PM #5
you will either have to run new speaker wire(recommended) or splice into the wires at the hu and run them to the new amp location. I'd personally mount it as far out of the way into the pass. compartment as you can. possibly against the seatback at the front of it. keeps water from finding it. you will also have to run rca's to the amp location. if you have the center locker, it's pretty easy to run it under the floor, or run it around the bow of the boat against the underside of the seat bases.
good location for the extra battery and that will make a short run for the amp power.
personally, if I was doing this, I'd run enough rca for an upgrade later incase you get the bug to do boat/sub/tower speakers. sub under drivers dash is the easiest and probably the best location. ensure you do the research and either buy a prefab box from one of the audio vendors on here, or look at the home-built systems for how to ensure your box is both sonically sound and won't be destroyed the first season by some water...
that kicker amp and a sub in a good box will make a nice system. def. improvements over what you have'06 Supra Launch 20SSV-gone but never forgotten
01-19-2012, 04:44 PM #6
To maximize storage and keep good airflow I'd suggest building a board to mount it/them under the glovebox on the side wall - keep the amps a few inches off the floor. Hide all your wiring behind the board. If you're getting water that far up inside I'd say the amps are probably the least of your worries!
With your playpen front end and big basement locker storage there is a support beam that runs across near the front if it's like mine. This makes a good anchor point for any wiring or looms that you need to go from one side to the other that is out of sight and fairly protected.
I have my sub speaker wire, sub input control, ipod aux cable to name a few hidden along there. Soon to be a bunch of RCAs for the Krypt EQ install as well. My HU is in the glovebox though.
Happy to help!Old enough to know better, young enough to do it anyway.
01-19-2012, 04:50 PM #7
Thanks, I was definitely worried about the wiring from the head unit to the amp, but it makes sense to go around the front if possible. I think new speaker wire will be the best bet too, I don't think it is too expensive, just hoping it isn't a pain to push the wire around everywhere. I will have to draw up a diagram to make sure I understand all of the wiring. TBH I have never even seen an amp in real life. I'd prefer to probably just buy a prefab box to save the hassle of figuring out exactly how it needs to be made.
01-19-2012, 04:55 PM #8
Boat was the first "major" stereo install I've ever done. Done a few simple automotive ones prior to that and did my own truck last winter - 2 amps, sub, door speakers & deck. Wiring that was a MAJOR pain compared to the boat!
Honestly running the wires in the boat is the easy part, it's the tucking them away and hiding them or tying them up/down so it's all nice and neat/clean that is the hard part.
Ah ha - from my ballast install. Here's a quick shot of that cross support. Behind the hoses going across you can see where wiring is routed and tacked up in there...
Last edited by bergermaister; 01-19-2012 at 04:58 PM.Old enough to know better, young enough to do it anyway.
01-19-2012, 10:28 PM #9
The drawing looks good. Do you plan on using a perko or just increasing your battery bank size? I think you can do either but I'd verify with someone that you don't need to throw in a perko for some reason. Someone else will have to answer on thickness of run you will have to make. I would typically say 0 awg but maybe you can get away with something smaller since it is such a long run?
1. Power to headunit is off the little block thing under the helm. It will remain the same and untouched. The only thing you will do at the headunit is disconnect all the speaker wires and plug in RCA's. You may want to post up your head unit. I'm not certain if you need multiple RCA runs. I also haven't looked at the amp. The headunit might have a remote wire location?
2. Yes, that's all it does. Real small wire.
3. 12 awg basically future proofs you for future upgrades. If you are going to wire it, might as well do it right once. You would probably be fine with 14 or 16
I can't see burg's pic from this reply screen so this is from memory ... but could those be ballast hoses? If you look at the back of the locker you can see he has run the wiring along the lip. That is how I did mine as well, along the lip of the playpen.
I used birch plywood and sprayed rubber truckbed coating on it. There are other options. I picked up the carpet from Lowe's. I think most people are cutting a small hole in the carpet, wood gluing a post, then screwing to the post. I, personally, would drill into the outside hull. Local shop around here did that for an X2 and the screw went through!!
Sent from my Xoom using Tapatalk2006 Supra 24SSV
01-20-2012, 09:44 AM #10
Berg - Thanks, that info definitely helps.
Hoopskier - Thanks for the picture of your install, that give us another option.
Now I just wish it was warm enough to work on this in the garage. Currently -5 here!