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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Central Wisconsin
    Posts
    292

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    MoombaStereoWiring.jpg

    Here is my first draft of the wiring. I was bored and needed to have a visual Let me know if I missed anything. Have started scoping out the products:
    4 Guage Power - 2x (still looking for better deal) http://www.amazon.com/Lanzar-LQ44-Co...7022329&sr=8-2
    100 ft 12 AWG speaker wire (thinking 50 wouldn't be enough)- http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2
    35 ft RCA - http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2
    Remote Wire - http://www.amazon.com/18ga-Remote-Wi...7023065&sr=1-1

    Few more questions
    1. Power to head unit provided by amp, correct?
    2. What is the remote wire, does that just power everything on when the head unit is powered on?
    3. I am assuming the 12 awg is good since some of the nicer speakers have those as inputs and you can just add the caps/plugs to them?

    Berg- do you run the front bow speakers and right speaker through those holes in the basement? Why 2 cable organizers in that picture? Not enough room, do they run to the same place? Hard to picture where that hole comes up to since I haven't seen our boat in awhile. Does it come up by the drivers feet?

    What kind of material did you use to create the mount for the amps? Was the carpet available locally somewhere? Did you just screw the mounted board then to what is there? Have to make sure the screws aren't too long I suppose.

    BTW Ian if you read this your PM mailbox is full

    Thanks all!
    Last edited by ryan_8099; 01-19-2012 at 08:48 PM.
    -Ryan
    twitter.com/WakeVideos
    2000 Mobius V
    Monster Tower MT2 - 750 rears, GG 1180 center - PP Wakeboard Edition

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Calgary Alta Canada
    Posts
    887

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    I've put off building my system now for too long . I have a question refering to the Kicker KM10 sub box mentioned above. Has anyone ,got or using one and how do you like it?My local dealers never carry them and only want to order one in. I want to hear and or compare it to other subs. Its actually the box i'm interested in for simplicity reasons as i'm pretty sure the actual sub could be removed and upgraded,with another 10 inch sub. But is this necessary and or a simple way to go without buiding a custom box? I'm not a real Bass hound so ,not looking for a real hard pounding sub ,just something to compliment the rest of the on board system. Tower is not an issue as well as we are primarily skiers and tunes are on during Rest stops and downtime . Not while skiing.Any comments..
    07 Outback DD

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Arkansas
    Posts
    2,473

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    The drawing looks good. Do you plan on using a perko or just increasing your battery bank size? I think you can do either but I'd verify with someone that you don't need to throw in a perko for some reason. Someone else will have to answer on thickness of run you will have to make. I would typically say 0 awg but maybe you can get away with something smaller since it is such a long run?

    1. Power to headunit is off the little block thing under the helm. It will remain the same and untouched. The only thing you will do at the headunit is disconnect all the speaker wires and plug in RCA's. You may want to post up your head unit. I'm not certain if you need multiple RCA runs. I also haven't looked at the amp. The headunit might have a remote wire location?
    2. Yes, that's all it does. Real small wire.
    3. 12 awg basically future proofs you for future upgrades. If you are going to wire it, might as well do it right once. You would probably be fine with 14 or 16

    I can't see burg's pic from this reply screen so this is from memory ... but could those be ballast hoses? If you look at the back of the locker you can see he has run the wiring along the lip. That is how I did mine as well, along the lip of the playpen.

    I used birch plywood and sprayed rubber truckbed coating on it. There are other options. I picked up the carpet from Lowe's. I think most people are cutting a small hole in the carpet, wood gluing a post, then screwing to the post. I, personally, would drill into the outside hull. Local shop around here did that for an X2 and the screw went through!!

    Sent from my Xoom using Tapatalk
    2006 Supra 24SSV

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Arkansas
    Posts
    2,473

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    Quote Originally Posted by ryan_8099 View Post
    Thanks for the info. Do you know the model number on the sub, looking up 10" Kenwood Excelon produced many results with varying price ranges.
    Kenwood KFC-XW1002DVC - 250 rms dual voice coil

    http://www.onlinecarstereo.com/CarAu...XW1002DVC.aspx

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    2006 Supra 24SSV

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Arkansas
    Posts
    2,473

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    Quote Originally Posted by KG's Supra24 View Post
    I, personally, would drill into the outside hull. Local shop around here did that for an X2 and the screw went through!!

    Sent from my Xoom using Tapatalk
    *wouldn't

    Sent from my Xoom using Tapatalk
    2006 Supra 24SSV

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    North Texas
    Posts
    1,819

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    Very important correction, lol.
    06 Supra 24 Gravity Games

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Wausau, WI
    Posts
    436

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    Ryan, I think you will find that putting a stereo in a boat is easier than a car, at least in my opinion. You dont have to remove door panel and such. I cant help much with the second battery idea, I only run one battery in my boat.

    4 guage power and ground wires-with appropriate fuse holder- Good
    35 ft RCA wires- pretty long if you are able to go directly across the boat, might want to measure that prior to ordering, also maybe look for a 4 channel RCA wire. such as http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...?from=3-700-53
    12 guage speaker wire, in my opinion might be a little overkill, I used 16 gauge in my application but to each their own- just bought local at wally world, I used 100 ft to run 6 speakers, you may be able to use less.
    Remote turn on wire- 18 gauge. can buy local at fleet farm or similar place. When powered supplied by HU, tells that amp to turn on.

    Bergs pics look like ballast hoses, but if you look behind the hoses you can see the wires.

    For mounting, I also used the seat back in the observer storage area. I used a standard peice of 1/2" plywood, painted it, and covered it in marine grade vinyl.

    Here is a pic of my setup in my Outback, different boat, different amp, but gives you an idea.
    Matt

    2003 Outback, Assault EFI, (6) Polk Audio DB651s, JL Audio M6600 amp, JL Audio M1700 amp, JL Audio 10w6v2 subwoofer

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Vancouver, WA
    Posts
    4,023

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    I'll do my best here...

    Berg- do you run the front bow speakers and right speaker through those holes in the basement?
    Mine came with 4 cheapo Pioneers already there. I just used the existing speaker wires - they don't run under the belly but around the front of the boat instead. I believe both of them on the starboard side run up the full length around the bow and back to the glovebox area.
    Why 2 cable organizers in that picture? Not enough room, do they run to the same place? Hard to picture where that hole comes up to since I haven't seen our boat in awhile.
    Good eye. First had run my sub speaker wire and the bass remote control wire. Those are in one organizer. Couple years later I ran the 1/8" mini cable for my ipod hookup (got tired of reaching over to the glovebox to mess with it). Decided it would be easier to add another organizer instead of pulling that one apart to slip in one more wire. I believe that was a 12ft cable and I had some room to spare. For RCA's I'd guess you would be fine with 15-20ft but always good to measure first. I'll have to do the same myself in a few months.

    Does it come up by the drivers feet?
    Yes, the wires slip out by the drivers feet but it is way up under the helm and pretty much out of site behind my subwoofer enclosure. No drilling required there - there is enough play between the carpeted panels the wiring will slide right through. Can kind of see it back there-




    What kind of material did you use to create the mount for the amps?
    I used 3/4" MDF sheeting - waterproof sealed with Thompsons. I had some left over from my subwoofer box build. Probably overkill but it is what I had.

    Was the carpet available locally somewhere?
    Ebay - got a silver marine grade carpet (kinda light duty) that was a very very close match. I bought a few yards of it for around $30 shipped. Covered the amp racks and the subwoofer box. I bought it by the yard at 6ft wide. Just search up "boat marine carpet".

    Did you just screw the mounted board then to what is there? Have to make sure the screws aren't too long I suppose.
    This part was a bit tricky. I did NOT screw into the hull wall at all. I used 2-3 L-shaped galvanized brackets across the bottom that screw into the boards and into the floor. Tucked in tight so they are almost invisible. The center amp actually holds the two separate boards together and covers the seam pretty well. Another L-shaped bracket for the front that anchors into the vent wall. On the top I fashioned a brace about 3/4" wide by 6" long (just basic sheet metal, painted) that screws down on the board on one end and anchors to one of the bolts on the cleat on that side. Used the existing nut and bolt there on the cleat where it comes through to the inside.

    Probably kind of hard to visualize that ^. I'll see if I have any pics floating around. I tell ya though - it's rock solid. Doesn't bounce around at all.
    Old enough to know better, young enough to do it anyway.

    2001 MobiusV

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Vancouver, WA
    Posts
    4,023

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    Few of the brackets I mounted on the bottom of the amp racks and then to the floor of the boat. Note these are the brass looking ones - don't use them! Go galvanized if you do something like this.



    Can see the hidden power distribution going on there too.



    So when the amps are mounted in the compartment against the wall, this is all that sticks out on the bottom and I anchored that into the floor. Screw it down tight into the carpet so it crushes down good so no sharp corners.



    Here you can see the top angle bracket in the right corner. Couldn't find a better way to hide that...

    On the center amp there, the black bracket mounted by it's top left corner is the sheet metal piece I mentioned. It goes straight up and fastens to the cleat hardware.



    There's actually the third amp off to the left that isn't visible unless you stuff your head in there and look back.

    I wasn't quite done wiring here but pretty close. One thing I really like about the Kicker amps. Power wires on one end, signal and speaker wires on the other end. Easy to keep them separated and avoid interference.

    Does that help some?
    Old enough to know better, young enough to do it anyway.

    2001 MobiusV

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Traverse City, MI
    Posts
    2,387

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    Quote Originally Posted by ryan_8099 View Post

    BTW Ian if you read this your PM mailbox is full

    Thanks all!
    Sorry about that! I have cleaned it, resend please

    Sent from my Kindle Fire using Tapatalk

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