Here is my first draft of the wiring. I was bored and needed to have a visual Let me know if I missed anything. Have started scoping out the products:
4 Guage Power - 2x (still looking for better deal) http://www.amazon.com/Lanzar-LQ44-Co...7022329&sr=8-2
100 ft 12 AWG speaker wire (thinking 50 wouldn't be enough)- http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2
35 ft RCA - http://www.monoprice.com/products/pr...seq=1&format=2
Remote Wire - http://www.amazon.com/18ga-Remote-Wi...7023065&sr=1-1
Few more questions
1. Power to head unit provided by amp, correct?
2. What is the remote wire, does that just power everything on when the head unit is powered on?
3. I am assuming the 12 awg is good since some of the nicer speakers have those as inputs and you can just add the caps/plugs to them?
Berg- do you run the front bow speakers and right speaker through those holes in the basement? Why 2 cable organizers in that picture? Not enough room, do they run to the same place? Hard to picture where that hole comes up to since I haven't seen our boat in awhile. Does it come up by the drivers feet?
What kind of material did you use to create the mount for the amps? Was the carpet available locally somewhere? Did you just screw the mounted board then to what is there? Have to make sure the screws aren't too long I suppose.
BTW Ian if you read this your PM mailbox is full
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Thread: Stereo Newb - Kicker Sub and Amp
01-19-2012, 08:42 PM #11
Last edited by ryan_8099; 01-19-2012 at 08:48 PM.-Ryan
2000 Mobius V
Monster Tower MT2 - 750 rears, GG 1180 center - PP Wakeboard Edition
01-19-2012, 09:24 PM #12Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jun 2007
- Calgary Alta Canada
I've put off building my system now for too long . I have a question refering to the Kicker KM10 sub box mentioned above. Has anyone ,got or using one and how do you like it?My local dealers never carry them and only want to order one in. I want to hear and or compare it to other subs. Its actually the box i'm interested in for simplicity reasons as i'm pretty sure the actual sub could be removed and upgraded,with another 10 inch sub. But is this necessary and or a simple way to go without buiding a custom box? I'm not a real Bass hound so ,not looking for a real hard pounding sub ,just something to compliment the rest of the on board system. Tower is not an issue as well as we are primarily skiers and tunes are on during Rest stops and downtime . Not while skiing.Any comments..07 Outback DD
01-19-2012, 10:28 PM #13
The drawing looks good. Do you plan on using a perko or just increasing your battery bank size? I think you can do either but I'd verify with someone that you don't need to throw in a perko for some reason. Someone else will have to answer on thickness of run you will have to make. I would typically say 0 awg but maybe you can get away with something smaller since it is such a long run?
1. Power to headunit is off the little block thing under the helm. It will remain the same and untouched. The only thing you will do at the headunit is disconnect all the speaker wires and plug in RCA's. You may want to post up your head unit. I'm not certain if you need multiple RCA runs. I also haven't looked at the amp. The headunit might have a remote wire location?
2. Yes, that's all it does. Real small wire.
3. 12 awg basically future proofs you for future upgrades. If you are going to wire it, might as well do it right once. You would probably be fine with 14 or 16
I can't see burg's pic from this reply screen so this is from memory ... but could those be ballast hoses? If you look at the back of the locker you can see he has run the wiring along the lip. That is how I did mine as well, along the lip of the playpen.
I used birch plywood and sprayed rubber truckbed coating on it. There are other options. I picked up the carpet from Lowe's. I think most people are cutting a small hole in the carpet, wood gluing a post, then screwing to the post. I, personally, would drill into the outside hull. Local shop around here did that for an X2 and the screw went through!!
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01-19-2012, 10:41 PM #14
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01-19-2012, 10:47 PM #15
01-19-2012, 11:06 PM #16
Very important correction, lol.06 Supra 24 Gravity Games
01-19-2012, 11:38 PM #17Senior Member
- Join Date
- Feb 2009
- Wausau, WI
Ryan, I think you will find that putting a stereo in a boat is easier than a car, at least in my opinion. You dont have to remove door panel and such. I cant help much with the second battery idea, I only run one battery in my boat.
4 guage power and ground wires-with appropriate fuse holder- Good
35 ft RCA wires- pretty long if you are able to go directly across the boat, might want to measure that prior to ordering, also maybe look for a 4 channel RCA wire. such as http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...?from=3-700-53
12 guage speaker wire, in my opinion might be a little overkill, I used 16 gauge in my application but to each their own- just bought local at wally world, I used 100 ft to run 6 speakers, you may be able to use less.
Remote turn on wire- 18 gauge. can buy local at fleet farm or similar place. When powered supplied by HU, tells that amp to turn on.
Bergs pics look like ballast hoses, but if you look behind the hoses you can see the wires.
For mounting, I also used the seat back in the observer storage area. I used a standard peice of 1/2" plywood, painted it, and covered it in marine grade vinyl.
Here is a pic of my setup in my Outback, different boat, different amp, but gives you an idea.
2003 Outback, Assault EFI, (6) Polk Audio DB651s, JL Audio M6600 amp, JL Audio M1700 amp, JL Audio 10w6v2 subwoofer
01-20-2012, 12:57 AM #18
I'll do my best here...
Berg- do you run the front bow speakers and right speaker through those holes in the basement?
Why 2 cable organizers in that picture? Not enough room, do they run to the same place? Hard to picture where that hole comes up to since I haven't seen our boat in awhile.
Does it come up by the drivers feet?
What kind of material did you use to create the mount for the amps?
Was the carpet available locally somewhere?
Did you just screw the mounted board then to what is there? Have to make sure the screws aren't too long I suppose.
Probably kind of hard to visualize that ^. I'll see if I have any pics floating around. I tell ya though - it's rock solid. Doesn't bounce around at all.2001 MobiusV
01-20-2012, 01:13 AM #19
Few of the brackets I mounted on the bottom of the amp racks and then to the floor of the boat. Note these are the brass looking ones - don't use them! Go galvanized if you do something like this.
Can see the hidden power distribution going on there too.
So when the amps are mounted in the compartment against the wall, this is all that sticks out on the bottom and I anchored that into the floor. Screw it down tight into the carpet so it crushes down good so no sharp corners.
Here you can see the top angle bracket in the right corner. Couldn't find a better way to hide that...
On the center amp there, the black bracket mounted by it's top left corner is the sheet metal piece I mentioned. It goes straight up and fastens to the cleat hardware.
There's actually the third amp off to the left that isn't visible unless you stuff your head in there and look back.
I wasn't quite done wiring here but pretty close. One thing I really like about the Kicker amps. Power wires on one end, signal and speaker wires on the other end. Easy to keep them separated and avoid interference.
Does that help some?2001 MobiusV
01-20-2012, 08:16 AM #20Senior Member
Check out the 2013 Moomba Suction Coolie Buy Thread!
- Join Date
- Feb 2008
- Traverse City, MI
2013 Outback V