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  1. #31
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    I think the Kicker 700.5 is going to be short of supplying the power a solobaric is going to need. Def a good sub though.

    PM coming your way ....
    2006 Supra 24SSV

  2. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mikey View Post
    I've put off building my system now for too long . I have a question referring to the Kicker KM10 sub box mentioned above. Has anyone ,got or using one and how do you like it?My local dealers never carry them and only want to order one in. I want to hear and or compare it to other subs. Its actually the box i'm interested in for simplicity reasons as i'm pretty sure the actual sub could be removed and upgraded,with another 10 inch sub. But is this necessary and or a simple way to go without buiding a custom box? I'm not a real Bass hound so ,not looking for a real hard pounding sub ,just something to compliment the rest of the on board system. Tower is not an issue as well as we are primarily skiers and tunes are on during Rest stops and downtime . Not while skiing.Any comments..
    Mikey,

    I dont want to take this thread too far off topic, but I did want to reply in regards to the Kicker KM and SKM 10" sub. I dont want to interject my personal feeling, but IMO, this is a very nice sub. It very musical and compliments a moderately powered 4-6 in-boat setup. Ive used both the KM10 in my custom built enclosures as well as the SKM10 in its own enclosure. I just had one leave last week that was driven by a 300W rms amp in a closed bow Boomerang. Customer was very pleased. I wish you could both get a listen to it as well as compare it to other 10" subs in the same power handling arena. You truly need to be the judge.

    2nd, I would not go with the SKM10 with the hopes of swapping the sub out later. The KM10 is somewhat recessed into the enclosure, so its constructed to fit both the OD and mounting cut out of the KM10. I would suggest the KM10 and building your own enclosure if this was your future possible plan. Even then, the future upgrade would be like buying a car to fit a set of wheels and tires you already have. When the time to upgrade comes, you very well may end up having to build a new enclosure specifically for the new sub.
    Last edited by MLA; 01-20-2012 at 04:38 PM.

  3. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by KG's Supra24 View Post
    I think the Kicker 700.5 is going to be short of supplying the power a solobaric is going to need. Def a good sub though.

    PM coming your way ....
    An L5 10" or the new L3 10" or 12" are spot on for the 420W rms of the zxm700.5. Sealed or ported...id rock'm all day long.

  4. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by MLA View Post
    An L5 10" or the new L3 10" or 12" are spot on for the 420W rms of the zxm700.5. Sealed or ported...id rock'm all day long.
    My fault on the misinformation.

    MLA, help me out on my understanding because I'm still learning

    4 ohms: 70 watts x 4 chan. + 210 watts x 1 Class D Sub channel: This is the scenario I was working from. Can you drop the ohm load to 2 for just the sub channel? If so, that doesn't necessarily double the output, right?

    2 ohms: 85 watts x 4 chan. + 420 watts x 1 Class D Sub channel: This one confuses me completely

    4 ohms (bridged): 130 watts x 2 chan. + 420 watts x 1 chan. (2 ohms sub channel, 210 watts @ 4 ohms): This is the way you get the 420 watts of power to the sub, right? But when you are bridged can you show a 2 ohm load to the 130 x 2? Because you will have 4 speakers on those 2 channels.

    Maybe I just don't understand dual voice coil at all. If you have 2 voice coils at 2 ohms each, do you not have to take your amp readings from a 4 ohm standpoint? Taking them from a 2 ohm listing and x 2 gives you a 1 ohm load, no?
    2006 Supra 24SSV

  5. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by KG's Supra24 View Post
    My fault on the misinformation.

    MLA, help me out on my understanding because I'm still learning

    4 ohms: 70 watts x 4 chan. + 210 watts x 1 Class D Sub channel: This is the scenario I was working from. Can you drop the ohm load to 2 for just the sub channel? If so, that doesn't necessarily double the output, right?

    2 ohms: 85 watts x 4 chan. + 420 watts x 1 Class D Sub channel: This one confuses me completely

    4 ohms (bridged): 130 watts x 2 chan. + 420 watts x 1 chan. (2 ohms sub channel, 210 watts @ 4 ohms): This is the way you get the 420 watts of power to the sub, right? But when you are bridged can you show a 2 ohm load to the 130 x 2? Because you will have 4 speakers on those 2 channels.

    Maybe I just don't understand dual voice coil at all. If you have 2 voice coils at 2 ohms each, do you not have to take your amp readings from a 4 ohm standpoint? Taking them from a 2 ohm listing and x 2 gives you a 1 ohm load, no?
    Ok, lets just focus on the Class-D mono sub chnl. If a 4 Ohm speaker load is wired to the chnl # 5, the chnl will deliver 210 watts RMS (root mean sq.) other wise called continuous power. A dual voice coil basically has two sets of windings and each needs to be powered.

    If a 2 Ohm speaker load is wired, then the chnl will deliver 420 watts RMS. So, this amp can run a moderate 4 Ohm single voice coil @ 210, like the KM10, or a higher power handling 4 Ohm dual voice coil sub like an L3 or a CVR.

    Most typical DVC subs come in the 2 ohm or 4 ohm configuration. With a dual 4, we wire the coils + to + and - to - and we get 2 Ohm and receive 420W. A dual 2 ohm can be wired in series (coil 1 + to amp, coil 2 - to amp and coil 1 - to coil 2 +). This nets us 4 ohm and allows up to bridge the sub on a 2 chnl amp. Or, we can wire it in parallel for a 1 Ohm load for a mono amp. Just keep in mind, that not all mono amp are stable with a 1 ohm load. Too low an ohm load causes problems.

    The loads placed on the sub chnl has no bearing on the out put of the 4 full-range chnls and vise-verse. A single 4 ohm in-boat speaker wired to one of the 4 full-range chnl will net 70W to that speaker. Wiring two 4 ohm speakers in parallel is a 2 ohm load, and the chnl output is now 85W. This 85W is then divided by the two similar speakers with each netting 42.5. Bridging a 4 ohm speaker across two chnls is equal to each chnl "seeing" a 2 ohm load as the 4 ohm bridged load is divided internally. I think the bridged output of the 700.5 is 170, but im not sure as ive never used it bridged. I always use it for 4-6 in-boats, but have used it for a pair of tower speakers and a sub.
    Last edited by MLA; 01-20-2012 at 05:29 PM.

  6. #36
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    So for my understanding ... The kicker L5 is a dual 4 ohm, that means we will be presenting a 2 ohm load to the 5th channel. Can the other 4 channels see a 4 ohm load or do you have to keep it at the 2 ohm load?

    Also, I guess the Kicker 700.5 is different from most amps in the fact that it will double the power at a 2 ohm load compared to a 4 ohm load? Typically I see the 2 ohm load being 1.75 x greater than the 4 ohm.

    EDIT: I appreciate the education.
    2006 Supra 24SSV

  7. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by MLA View Post

    The loads placed on the sub chnl has no bearing on the out put of the 4 full-range chnls and vise-verse.
    I think that answer solved my confusion. Sounds like you can have the best of both worlds.

    I also didn't completely understand how the DVC worked.
    2006 Supra 24SSV

  8. #38
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    Yeah pretty much. How I am running my 700.5 is a 10" L5 DVC 4ohm in parallel +to+ -to- to show the amp a 2ohm load. The cabins are on the rest of the amp. Basically think of it as two amp a class AB for cabins and a class D for the sub channel.

    MLA maybe you can help me out here I am running the Polk MM651's which are a 2.7ohm load I currently don't have my bows hooked up because I don't know how to present the amp with the correct load. Is there a way to run six of them off of the AB amp and still get enough power to them? I'm thinking it would be ++- and --+ is that correct?

    Sorry for the threadjack Ryan.
    Last edited by New Guy; 01-20-2012 at 06:05 PM.
    -Mark
    14 Mojo - Waiting patiently for my build date.
    02 Mobius LSV ---- Sold and always will be remembered as the one that started it all.

    "Hey you only live once"

  9. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by KG's Supra24 View Post
    I think that answer solved my confusion. Sounds like you can have the best of both worlds.

    I also didn't completely understand how the DVC worked.
    The Class-D sub chnl will handle a 2 or 4 Ohm load independently of the other 4. The 4 Class-A/B Full-range chnls will handle a 2 or 4 ohm load regardless of what load is placed on the sub chnl.

    A DVC sub, think it as having to speaker motors driving a single woofer cone. Each coil has its own impedance and its own set of + and - terminals. Each coil needs to be powered for the sub to work. Having two coils allows us to configure a single sub in two was to better fit the amps power rating. It also allows for wiring multiple subs to a single amp so that we can keep the amps load with in its comfortable operating range. Most all of Kicker's DVC subs come in either a dual 2 or dual 4. This lets you go with the best configuration for the amp thats going to be used.

    The sun chnl doubles it power from 4 ohm to 2 ohm, but the class-A/B full-range chnls do not on this amp. A lot of mono amps do double the power when going from 4 to 2. Some full-range amps do and some dont. Its not a rule of thumb for full-range.

    Im glad to help, any time!

  10. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by New Guy View Post
    Yeah pretty much. How I am running my 700.5 is a 10" L5 DVC 4ohm in parallel +to+ -to- to show the amp a 2ohm load. The cabins are on the rest of the amp. Basically think of it as two amp a class AB for cabins and a class D for the sub channel.

    MLA maybe you can help me out here I am running the Polk MM651's which are a 2.7ohm load I currently don't have my bows hooked up because I don't know how to present the amp with the correct load. Is there a way to run six of them off of the AB amp and still get enough power to them? I'm thinking it would be ++- and --+ is that correct?

    Sorry for the threadjack Ryan.
    Mark,

    You would need to wire the port side main cabin pair in series and connect to chnl-3 and then do the same with the starboard side pair and wire them to chnl-4. Then wire the bows to chnls 1 and 2. This will present a 5.4 Ohm load on the amp's chnls 3 and 4. This will net about 30W to each. This is a bit light, but doable impedance wise. The bow pair would be 2x the power, so it would be a noticeable volume difference, so you would want to adjust back the bow.

    If it where me, I would leave the 4 main cabins as they are = each speaker on its own chnl, and install a small 2 chnl just for the bow pair.

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