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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Alpharetta, GA
    Posts
    17

    Default Help with replacement amp selection

    I need a suggestion on a replacement amp...

    My primary amp powers the in boat speakers - 6 Polk DB651s. I don't know it is is relivant, but I have seperate amps powering tower speakers (Kicker model M450.2) and amp (don't remember make/model but can go look if it's relivant)... The primary amp started going in and out around the end of the season and while it's easy enough to swap out, I am turning to my fellow Moomba'ers for a suggestion on the make/model to use. If there are any other pertinant details, just let me know and I'll post the answer.

    Thanks in advance!

    -BC
    07 LSV

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Wausau, WI
    Posts
    436

    Default

    I am not much of a stereo expert as compared to other on here. It may be helpful to know a few more things such as;

    What amp do you have now? Do want to way overshoot or undershoot what you have now. And ease of swaping it out-for wiring purposes.
    Do you have hard budget limit?
    Do you plan to add anything in the future? This is prime upgrade opportunity time.

    Maybe the Kicker 700.5 and then add a sub. I went the JL route but read that the Kicker is a hot choice.
    Matt

    2003 Outback, Assault EFI, (6) Polk Audio DB651s, JL Audio M6600 amp, JL Audio M1700 amp, JL Audio 10w6v2 subwoofer

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Lake Wylie NC Area
    Posts
    637

    Default

    1st thing I would do is to confirm that the problem is the amp, and not a voltage,signal or shorted speaker problem.

    2nd. If it looks like you do need a new amp, then I would look for a 4 chnl amp that will deliver between 50 to 100 watts rms to each speaker. If you want to add an sub, the look for a hybrid 5 or 6 chnl amp. For the price and sound quality, you cant be a good old Class A/B amp, but if you want to spend a little more for a more efficiant amp, the look one thats using Class-D or Class G/H technology. They produce less heat as a by-product. This equals more to the speakers with less battery consumption. There are lots of quality amps out there that are rated using industry standards. Hoopskier mentioned the Kicker ZXM700.5.......I use these quite often, they are a solid amp.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Alpharetta, GA
    Posts
    17

    Default Followup

    Thanks, guys. In answer to your questions - I knew that the amp was about to go and there is rust on the terminals, so even if it wasn't then I would still say that it's about time. I'll go up there tomorrow and see what brand/model it is, but I don't know that I really need to move up to a higher wattage model as I had never had an issue with clariry or insufficient volume. I am not worried about adding adding additional speakers in this case either as I have seperate amps for the tower speakers and sub (i.e. 3 amps total) so I can only imagiane that this amp will only ever be used for the 6 Polk's. In terms of quality, I absolutely want a solid product, but I am not looking for top of the line - I figured that there was probably a common product that a lot of people ran/suggested which is why I asked (since a lot of people on here seem to run the Polk's - this is actually where I got the suggestion for them as well). THe only other detail that may be relivant is that I am controlling everything through a wetsounds EQ (which I LOVE and highly recommend to everyone to give the ability to control the in boat and tower speaker volume seperately from the driver's seat).

    I am surprised to see the recommendations of the 4 channel amps, this may be a little basic but I would assume that since it's running 6 speakers that I need a 6 channel amp... I will look into the Kicker ZXM700.5 - THANK YOU!

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Carlton Oregon
    Posts
    5,643

    Default

    The reason so many reccomend the 4 channel amps is there really perfect for the situation. Plus they tend to be cheaper then a 6 channel.

    With the 4 you would just run the 4 cabins on 1 channel droping the ohms to 2 which will increase the amps output. Then bow on the other 2 channels and you can still dial them all in to sound the same.

    Recomendations people have said are pretty good already.
    Malo <--- Means--Evil or Mean One. This explains a lot.
    2013 Mojo 2.5 Skylon Tower. Bestia < Beast >
    Exile ZLD
    6 SX65M Cabins
    6 XM9 Towers
    1 XI Big 15 Woofer in a custom Fiberglass box
    1 XI 1K Harpoon
    2 XI 800.4
    1 XI 2500.1
    2 Interstate 2400U 6V Golf Cart Batterties
    Custom 1 Off Evolution Cover

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Lake Wylie NC Area
    Posts
    637

    Default

    Since you already have a sub and amp driving, then you would not need a 5-chnl like the Kicker zxm700.5. But, you do not need a 6-chnl either, to run 6 full-range speakers. Just about every full-range 4 chnl amp out there will easily run 6 speakers. There are also a few 5 chnl amps on the market that will work fine as well.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2009
    Location
    Fort Worth, TX
    Posts
    1,010

    Default

    Here's some options that will give a little more power than stock and are pretty reasonable. They are al cea-2006 compaint so the rated power is true.
    http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...10IX500.4.html
    http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...e-R400-4D.html
    http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...ence-475a.html
    http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_...s-GLX60.4.html
    -2012 Supra 21v
    Wetsounds Rev10's, Wetsounds SYN 4, Wetsounds XS-12, Alpine MRP-M500,
    JL Audio JX360/4, Polk MM651 Interiors
    -2008 Mobius LSV

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