I finished up the battery box, and started to play around with the layout of the amp rack. I really need to get to the boat and measure what kind of room I have to work with, this is all really just playing at this point.
I am not going to use hinges, rather I will get a strap or some stainless clamps to hold the lid down - here you can see the lid with the little blocks to keep it from sliding around:
I also put some runners inside to keep the smaller battery from moving.
Battery box with the lid in place and holes drilled for wires:
Playing around with what will become the amp rack:
I am going to pedestal mount each amp to accommodate air flow and cooling, not sure if I'll leave it raw Starboard or wrap in vinyl or carpet. This board is 24" high by 36" wide, which I think will be too large for my Outback (previous was 24"x24"), but we'll see. Looking at this makes me kind of mental, the Kicker ZX1000.1 stands out like a sore thumb next to those nice matching Exile amps. Maybe I'll tuck the 1000.1 behind the side cushion or something.
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Thread: 2012 Stereo Re-Build...
02-29-2012, 01:45 PM #11
02-29-2012, 03:17 PM #12
Ian, looking great. Wish I had somewhere near me to purchase the black plastic board. One thing you might want to think about battery cases need to vent and if the cables are about the same size of the holes in the side you may want to make some type of vent on the case.
Last edited by harmsway; 02-29-2012 at 03:19 PM.Patrick
'08 Mobius LS. 4 Blade OJ 13x13 Prop.
Kenwood KMR440U & RC107MR, T600-2 Rockford Fosgate powering 2 Liquid Acoustics 8" HLCD, Kicker SKM10 subwoofer
5 light- light bar.
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02-29-2012, 04:23 PM #13
The box its self is not really sealed up tight, but I think I will likely put a vent hole on the opposite side as well. I am going to wait 'till I have it in the boat to determine placement of the vent - I want it out if sight, but also not blocked by anything.
02-29-2012, 04:24 PM #14
I also think I am going to use a router to round all of the edges - I need to stop at HomeDepot and pick up a bit, I couldn't find it last night when I was tinkering.
02-29-2012, 05:54 PM #15
Smart man rounding off those sharp edges.
Did you consider mounting the kicker in between the exiles, then put your distro blocks either down low or up high? I personally like things balanced and symmetrical.
Or possibly stack the Exiles horizontally on one side, the Kicker vertical on the other?"If your work speaks for itself - don't interrupt"
02-29-2012, 06:18 PM #16
Its looking great so far. Lots of thought. Lots of effort.
I do have a question about the redundant fusing when the amplifiers already have fuses in the chassis? That's extra points of contact and extra resistance. Its just odd when the master fuse or breaker should trip before the short lengths of 4-gauge could be harmful if shorted. And certainly a reduction in wire gauge coupled with a protracted distance would normally necessitate independent fusing. But that is a very very short extension. Contrastly its critically important to the safety of occupants and for the boat to have a master fuse or breaker within a few inches of the battery or battery switch supply. That would be triple fusing.
02-29-2012, 07:36 PM #17
02-29-2012, 09:19 PM #18
Ian pull the top cover off of the kicker and paint it to match. I'm pretty sure that kicker has some vinyl wraps for the amps too.-Mark
02 Mobius LSV - GIII Ballast - Kicker 6500.2 Six Pack powered by 650.4 - Polk cabins, 10" L5 powered by Kicker 750.5 - Perfect Pass wakeboard pro
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02-29-2012, 09:54 PM #19
02-29-2012, 09:55 PM #20