I purchased some of the superbright led 4-chips and will be wiring them up in all of my cupholders this weekend. Does anyone know where I can get some crimp-on or heat shrink quick connects that have both positive and negative terminals? I may add ss cupholders later and don't want to have to rewire everything when the time comes. Would I be better off just crimping a bullet connector to each positive and ground wire?
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Thread: LED wiring help
04-20-2012, 09:29 AM #1Junior Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2011
- College Station, TX
LED wiring help02 Mobius LSV
04-20-2012, 09:36 AM #2
I'm real curious to see an actual install of this topic.
Where are you running wires?
How are you powering these LEDs?
How do they fit into the cup holder?
How do they stay there fitted to the cup holder?
I know nothing about these LEDs but they seem all the craze with lots of folks. Just curious about how people are doing this.
Not trying to jack your question, thought maybe you could answer based on what your doing.2008 Supra 21V
2,600 lbs., Gravity III
Z5 Cargo Rack
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04-20-2012, 09:56 AM #3
You're looking for some sealed crimp connectors like these - http://www.picocanada.com/en/product/3665.php
I found some at HarborFreight pretty cheap - they're like a basic crimp connector then you hit them with some heat to shrink down the casing onto your wire for a seal. I used these on my ballast bumps in case I need to remove or replace them sometime down the road.
C&S - hiding the wires is pretty easy following existing wiring behind panels, seats, etc. I used a spare accessory switch on the dash to power my LEDs. Others have added new switches - checkout Ian's setup. I believe most guys are drilling and glueing them into the cupholders if the light does not fit snugly into the existing drainhole on their own.Old enough to know better, young enough to do it anyway.
04-20-2012, 01:48 PM #4
Are you going with the single color or RGB??
I installed 6 of the following 4chip RGB LEDs in my cupholders
I ended up using 16-22gauge butt connectors. I was going to attempt to solder all of the wires but said F' it as it was taking to long.
I unscrewed the black cap at the bottom of the cupholders. After doing this you'll have enough room to fish the wire thru. Little advice, when you stick the LED down leave some room for water to drain out of the cupholder.
If you're using the superflux LEDs,
they'll fit right in the drain hole once you remove the black fitting at the end. I didnt use any silicone and they held in place all summer. If you do this route, you might want to drill a small hole in the bottom of the cupholder so water/beer will drain.
I also installed 2 of the superflux chips into my bow speakers, so they have many uses.
Advice for anybody going the RGB route. Make sure you have your RGB controller and test all of the lights before installing. Some of the RGB strips were marked incorrectly so I tested each strip and cupholder LEDs to make sure the Red, Green, Blue wires are correct2009 LSV Liquid Force Edition
- Gravity III
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- ACME 1847
- Polk MM6501UM - Kicker IX500.4
- Kicker CompVX 12" - Kicker IX1000.1
- Pair Wetsounds Rev 10s - JL Audio HD750/1
- RGB LEDs
04-20-2012, 05:12 PM #5
Possibly a dumb question.........On those strip LEDs.....how exactly do you wire them up?-Mark
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04-20-2012, 06:01 PM #6
One wire at a time06 Supra 24 Gravity Games
04-20-2012, 11:45 PM #7
i don't care who you are that's funny2007 Moomba Outback - waiting for summer!
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04-21-2012, 10:01 AM #8BoatBling Moomba forum member discount thread
2013 Outback V
04-21-2012, 10:44 PM #9
The other problem I see is that there are 5 lonely beers sitting in a twelver.
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