Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 26
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    South Carolina
    Posts
    782

    Default Amp rack: ideas, materials to make, and any other advice?

    So next weekend I am going to attempt to install my new amp, tower speakers, run the wires, and add a second battery to power the tower. Should be interesting. My father is going to help (he's good with electrical and building stuff as well as thinking outside the box). I don't have any experience installing stereo equipment but we're going to give it a try. Everyone on the board has told me I can do it.

    Anyways, I wanted to think ahead a little and ask about amp racks to see if you audio gurus had ideas or could share what you did or built (pics definitely welcome). My boat is a 2008 Supra 21V. The amp that I have (factory Kicker) that powers the in-boats sits in the compartment behind the observer's seat (like most I imagine) and is attached (screwed I believe) into the fiberglass side on the right (never really looked in detail at how it was mounted but that's what I think). I believe that I'm going to need to build an amp rack for the new amp and want to get your expertise on build ideas and mounting ideas as well as a list of materials you suggest I build it with. I've read other topics on this that said people used MDF and carpeted it. I don't see this compartment getting wet so I'm assuming I dont need treated wood? I've seen a post on another forum where someone cut four pieces of 2x4 about 3 inches wide and tall, cut out 4 like-size shapes in the carpet in his compartment on the left side (hull side) and I think glued the wood to the hull, let it dry, the screwed the MDF amp rack to those four pieces.

    Also, when I run the speaker wire, what do you guys all use to secure the wire clamp-wise? Anything in particular I can pick up at HD or Lowes?

    Are there things that I need to consider or remember when building and/or installing this amp and rack?

    I obviously don't know what I don't know.

    Thanks for any help you provide. I'd like to pick up the materials this week so I am prepared for this weekend, maybe even get around to building the rack and carpeting it.

    Justin
    2008 Supra 21V
    2,600 lbs., Gravity III
    Z5 Cargo Rack
    Stereo: Pair of Wetsounds Pro 80's, Rockford Fosgate P500-2, Kicker ZX200.4, Exile ZLD, stock Kicker in-cabins, stock Kenwood HU
    Tow rig: 2008 Slate Tundra, Bilstein 5100's (F&R), 295/65/18 wrapped in Duratracs

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Posts
    110

    Default

    If your boat has what I assume is some sort of vent between the bow and the windshield, that is the only spot that I have seen allow water into that compartment. So I just stuff it with a towel when washing down the boat. But because I have had that compartment get moisture sometimes, I went with plexiglass for my amp rack and about a 1/2 inch spacer at each corner. My thoughts were that the spacers would allow for the wet carpet to dry without contacting the amps, but the humidity that is created might still do the same harm. As far as wire tips, go to a local stereo shop, or maybe even a Radio Shack, etc. and pick up a distribution block to match how many amps you will have. This allows you to essentially connect one main power wire to all of the amps with shorters connections without running a ton of extra wire and it looks cleaner. I just used screw down zipties to snake the rest of the wire where I wanted it to go, but a lot more handy guys on this board probably have a better suggestion. My best tip: Turn it on and test it before you tighten all your screws. Good luck, and have fun!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Snellville, GA & Lake Sinclair
    Posts
    7,051

    Default

    I am FAR from an expert on this subject, but can tell you from reading others experiences and knowing the properties of MDF, I would suggest you look at a different material. Some on here have used plexiglass/lexan that you can buy from HD or Lowes, some have used Plastic cutting boards and others have used the starboard. Check out the stereo section of the forum for more ideas.
    Drew
    New ride: 2012 Mojo
    Old ride: 2008 OBV

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Snellville, GA & Lake Sinclair
    Posts
    7,051

    Default

    Drew
    New ride: 2012 Mojo
    Old ride: 2008 OBV

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    California
    Posts
    2,840

    Default

    As others have said, stay away from mdf for an amp rack. Besides the obvious issue of water there's weight as well. In order to have a rigid rack you'd have to use at least 1/2" thick. Better choice would be Starboard, plexi/lexan sheet, aluminum or even birch plywood resin coated. Go one of those routes and save yourself some headaches down the road.
    2007 Mobius LSV

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Arkansas
    Posts
    651

    Default

    I have used a cutting board from Wally for the amp mounting board in the past. You can find some in hard thick plastic.

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Vancouver, WA
    Posts
    4,104

    Default

    I went the no-no MDF route but treated the bottom edge 6-8" up with water sealer and the marine carpet I used has a rubber backing, wrapped it around all edges and a few inches over on the backside. Going on year 4 and no troubles with the MDF so far. Knock on , uh, wood.
    Old enough to know better, young enough to do it anyway.

    2001 MobiusV

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Lake Wylie NC Area
    Posts
    797

    Default

    HDPE (Starboard), Marine Plywood (coated with 2-part resin if you like), void-free hardwood plywood coated with 2-part resin.

    Marine carpet, as a cosmetic covering, will last far longer then your traditional trunk lining material you find on store bought sub boxes. Elevating off the floor just a little will help to by allow any trapped moisture to dry. A bed-liner type coating will also work well for a cosmetic covering. Marine vinyl, but its a little harder to work with on an amp rack to make it look good around edges and wire pass-throughs.

    For securing wires, use cable clamps or zip-ties with the anchoring hole at the top.

    For a cleaner install, secure the rack to some stand-offs bonded to the hull. This creates a space for the wires to hide behind the amp rack and then pass through to the amps, etc.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Grayson, Georgia
    Posts
    1,064

    Default

    This may be a dumb question, but those that have made custom amp racks, what are you screwing these racks into in the inside wall? How can you be sure not to drill straight through the gel coat?
    -Mark
    2005 LSV
    Tow w/:
    Volkswagen Touareg V8
    Mods: Stereo, Stainless Cup Holders and Thru Hulls, Chrome Steering Wheel, EZ Nets, Moomba Etched Cleats

    "Be more concerned with your character than your reputation, bc your character is what you really are, while your reputation is merely what others think you are."

    -John Wooden

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jun 2011
    Location
    Raleigh, NC
    Posts
    216

    Default

    I went cheap and used some old pressure treated plywood around.

    http://kearneyville.com/2012/04/10/2012-stereo-build/
    2003 Mobius LSV Gravity Games
    Total Noob running 1100 in the center, 750s in the lockers.
    JL JX360/4 powering 6 Infinity 621m speakers

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •