Is this your only amp in the boat? If not and you can dedicate the four channels to the tower, I would bridge the amp and run 200w at 4 ohms to each tower speaker. Otherwise, I'm with mike- start looking for a solid amp to dedicate to the towers. They typically need some good power to do what they do best.
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Thread: Speaker wiring question
05-07-2012, 12:46 PM #11'08 Mobius LSV, Mods- 1100 lb Rear Sacs, IBS Sac, Center 400 Sac, Dedicated thru-hull intakes and pumps per sac, SeaDek One Piece Mica over Black Roo, EZ Net Cargo Nets, Swivel Drivers Seat, Hot Water Shower, Hinged Wind Block, Bow Cushion Adapter Plate for Drink Holders Access, etc, etc.
05-07-2012, 12:59 PM #12Junior Member
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I have a jl m600/6 running 6 polk in cabin speaker. The 700/5 runs the four towers and my sub. That was my plan to bridge the amp and hook two speakers to one bridged channel with seperate wires to each speaker ... make sense ?
05-07-2012, 01:04 PM #13
it makes sence, but you cant do it. I think the Kicker set up is designed to wire the speaker and horn together making your 4ohms. Im not positive as im not as savy with that speaker setup.
If the JL will bridge to 2 channels then you should have enough power off that amp for the tower. Then run the 700.5 cabins and sub. That amp can handle it, lots of people use 700.5s for sub cabin combos. Wire bow to front amp channel, wires the 4 cabins 2 each to left and right rear channels as a 2ohm load the amp will work fine.Malo <--- Means--Evil or Mean One. This explains a lot.
2013 Mojo 2.5 Skylon Tower. Bestia < Beast >
6 SX65M Cabins
6 XM9 Towers
1 XI Big 15 Woofer in a custom Fiberglass box
1 XI 1K Harpoon
2 XI 800.4
1 XI 2500.1
2 Interstate 2400U 6V Golf Cart Batterties
Custom 1 Off Evolution Cover
05-07-2012, 03:57 PM #14
What mike said. So, if you don't want to replace one of your amps (I'm sure you don't), you could do this:
Use the Amps as mike suggests. Bridge 4 of the 600/6 channels to make 2 sets of outputs that will give you 200w rms @ 4 ohms- connect one speaker to each of these bridged outputs. Then keep the remaining two outputs un-bridged (75 watts rms @ 4 ohms) and run the remaining pair of tower speakers off of it. You will have a power imbalance between all four speakers, so it's not ideal, but it will work. Are all four kicker hlcds identical? Maybe the two with power could be for wake boarding and the other two aimed more for surfing? Just an option to work with what you got.
05-07-2012, 06:04 PM #15
Phil from Kicker here.
First off, when wiring a KM6500.2 horn in parallel with a KM6500.2 mid, the resulting load is still 4-ohms. The crossovers on the back of the horns and the midrange drivers take care of that. You will show 4-ohms to a bridged 4-channel amp per side.
Second, I agree with Mike, I prefer to see a dedicated tower amplifier. It is not that the 5-channel amp might work for a while, but you really tax the power supply running subs and towers of an amp, way more so than if the 4-channel section of the 5-channel amp were driving in-boats.
Third, while HLCDs are efficient, using less power for a given output than a typical coax, we all know that we WAIL on our tower speakers, and clipping distortion will take out a HLCD driver more quickly than over-powering. I have found I really like 250 RMS a side out of a tower amp for these. A Bridged Kicker IX500.4 is a good example. Warmly over-powering a set will be better than grossly under-powering a set.
These guys are steering you right to use the 700.5 for sub and in-boats and use the other amp for the towers, bridging 4 channels of the 6-channel amp down to two to run your Kicker KM6500.2 tower system. Wire one horn and one mid to each side of the bridged set. You will have two channels of the 6-channel amp left open, but don't worry about that. Those two channels could even be used to do something different in the future.
You really will be happier getting your tower speakers off of the amp that is also driving your sub. The result should be better power supply management and greater headroom.
Basic system setup for KM6500.2
* BASS BOOST OFF
* Crossover set to HI PASS
* Crossover freq. set to 150 - 200 Hz (the higher 200 Hz setting handles more power)
Holler here or PM if you have further questions, or if I get busy and don;t track this thread, PM me and tell me to get off my backside and respond...
Last edited by philwsailz; 05-07-2012 at 06:08 PM.
05-07-2012, 07:34 PM #16
I really like what Phil had to say about equally distributing the speaker load between the two amplifiers...not only in consideration of the impedance load but in consideration of which speakers and zones normally get worked the hardest. The power supply of an amplifier is the restriction. Running half the amplifier down to the lowest permissible impedance load still gives you a little headroom and thermal stability. Strapping the entire amplifier (all channels) down to the minimum load is like running at red line all the time. So you are not as likely to find a weak link in a more balanced configuration.
05-07-2012, 11:14 PM #17Junior Member
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- Jul 2011
Last edited by 06yfzduner; 05-07-2012 at 11:18 PM.
05-07-2012, 11:17 PM #18Junior Member
- Join Date
- Jul 2011
I have six polk mm651um cabins, the 600/6 amp will bridge to 200x3 at 4 ohms. the 700/5 will bridge to 200x2 at 4 ohms and 300 at 2 ohms for the l7 10". Maybe this well help a little