Page 1 of 5 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 57

Hybrid View

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Keuka Lake, NY
    Posts
    5,904

    Default Custom sub box mount pics.

    I removed my factory installed kicker and going to put a 12 inch exile dvc to max the kicker amp 420 for now.

    I pulled down the fake wall and look what is smack center of the wall, the chase wire hole...

    I need a seeled 1.1 cu ft and really don't want to loose any foot room,storage.

    Pics of humpless sub area. Are appreciated.

    So far I came up with a wedged truck box mounted upside down and hole on the flat side to mount to the backside of the panel , of course enlarge the hole front 10 to 12 .



    Last edited by jmvotto; 05-07-2012 at 10:30 PM.
    A Day at the Lake...Priceless
    A Day in Powder...Endless


    Joe V
    2012 Möbius XLV~ Loaded & Exiled
    2007 Outback V ~ sold

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Wichita,Ks
    Posts
    267

    Default

    You think by now SC and other boat manufactures would figure out that people upgrade the stock stereos. They could accomodate this by placing wiring and whatnots in better places.
    Rick
    2002 Moomba Mobius V

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Traverse City, MI
    Posts
    2,398

    Default

    Is it open under the floor a few inches back? I wonder if you can drill a new hole where you want it and fish the wires back. To save time you could cut a channel connecting the 2 holes, so you don't have to disconnect and re-connect everything. Are the wires and the vent in your way, or just the wires?

    You should be able to get 1.1ft^3 out of that area EASILY (especially if the woofer in the picture is a 12).

    I would go 1 of 2 routes;
    1: Build feet for the box to raise it off the floor enough to clear those items. If its just the wires I'd say you can get away with 2" or so, if you need to go around the vent see option 2.

    2: Build the box you want, then cut a channel out of the center so your box will fit around those items. When you calculate dimensions make sure go big, to account for the size of the channel you will cut.

    Or, #3: Build the box as large as possible (I bet you can get 4ft^3 out of that area with some planning), put it on 3" feet, and go PORTED! I'm so glad I switched from sealed to ported, a major improvement.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    North Texas
    Posts
    1,819

    Default

    Ian's recomendations were exactly what I would go with. We have the hump in our boat, but the wires/steering cable came right through the center just like yours. You could possibly build a similar hump so you would have something to place the hump on, and build it around the cables. There should be enough slack in them so you have some wiggle room, however be cautious not to move it to much from the original position and cause the steering cable to be in a bind or wear out prematurely.

    You might also check with Earmark, as well as Youdaman. I know he has several Moomba's in the gallery online and I can assure you they don't have truck boxes wedged in. Might be of some help.

    Not sure if these pics help, but here is how mine is done. Of course, pre-planned it in paint. My dimensions ended up changing after this pic, but I didn't take the time to update the drawing.



    I did not end up using the legs drawn in this picture. I used L brackets on the side, and compressed a few to less than a 90 degree bend and used them underneath, as well as attached thru the box to the hump.


    This one shows how the box ends up elevated off the floor all the way to the hump, with the facade coming right past the box by and inch or so. Every inch of footroom is still there. After I built it, I realized I could have still made the box 2" deeper all the way around and gained alot more "size" but I wasn't sure so this is what I ended with.




    The cutout on the right side of my box is where my heater hose comes thru to connect to the facade. On the side view, you can see the area of the hump that the box does not set on, that is where all my cables come thru. So everything is for the most part un-moved behind it in the factory position.
    06 Supra 24 Gravity Games

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Traverse City, MI
    Posts
    2,398

    Default

    What was your initial plan, to do like 24" wide, 18" high, and 6" deep? With all the space behind that seems like kind of a waste.


    Looking at the picture and using my guesstimates for measurements, I'd do this;

    Trapezoid shaped box;
    Bottom length: 10"
    Height: 18"
    Top length: 18"
    Depth: 10"

    This will give you 1.45ft^3 before material thickness and driver displacement, likely getting you right where you want to be in the end.




    That's what I'd do, final answer (that is if you don't go ported.)
    Attached Images Attached Images

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Keuka Lake, NY
    Posts
    5,904

    Default

    I thought sealed has more accurate bass. I need 1.1 sealed and 2.2 with a port

    Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk
    A Day at the Lake...Priceless
    A Day in Powder...Endless


    Joe V
    2012 Möbius XLV~ Loaded & Exiled
    2007 Outback V ~ sold

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Keuka Lake, NY
    Posts
    5,904

    Default

    Thanks guys this is really giving Mr a head ache. The sub in the pic is a 10. But I would really like it centered under the helm. Ian I like the creativity, really like to build around the wires.

    Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk
    A Day at the Lake...Priceless
    A Day in Powder...Endless


    Joe V
    2012 Möbius XLV~ Loaded & Exiled
    2007 Outback V ~ sold

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    South Carolina
    Posts
    782

    Default

    I know nothing about subs and building sub boxes but I am in the same boat with the wires right behind my kick panel.

    But Ian, given your diagram isn't the mounting of the sub going to be off center? I'm assuming that the top length and right side is hugging the interior wall of the hull? So the sub would be more at your right leg?

    Are other boat manufacturers doing something different with the placement of that hole for wire runs? It seems foolish to put it right in the middle.
    2008 Supra 21V
    2,600 lbs., Gravity III
    Z5 Cargo Rack
    Stereo: Pair of Wetsounds Pro 80's, Rockford Fosgate P500-2, Kicker ZX200.4, Exile ZLD, stock Kicker in-cabins, stock Kenwood HU
    Tow rig: 2008 Slate Tundra, Bilstein 5100's (F&R), 295/65/18 wrapped in Duratracs

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Location
    North Texas
    Posts
    1,819

    Default

    JM, that's the reason mine is designed the way it is, I also wanted the sub in the center. This is all I could come up with to have it centered with the steering wheel.



    06 Supra 24 Gravity Games

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Arkansas
    Posts
    2,507

    Default

    Cigars, do you have a hump? Dusty solution is a solid one but it needs the factory hump to be utilized.

    I don't think being off to the right would be that big of an issue. Also, what are you centering with as their are alot of different focal points. You will make a fascia for it so its all uniform across the front anyways. Or you could put a sub on each side Or build a storage box, LED Moomba logo, etc to offset the sub being on the right side?
    2006 Supra 24SSV

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •