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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    13

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    I can get the kicker 700.5 and the kicker 450.2 for just under $700 here locally brand new from an authorized dealer. He can't get jl but online looks like it'll be upwards of $900. I know the jls are better being class d and all but if I knew I could play these kickers loud without them shutting off due to heat I'd probably just go with them.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Canton, Ga / Lake Lanier
    Posts
    1,590

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    Someone correct me if I'm wrong but I think you will have to worry about thermal shutdown with any amp you go to except for maybe a Class H. I know down here in the south when the temps are over 90 degrees and if you are running an amp or 2 in that enclosed compartment the temp inside that compartment can easily get over 120 degrees! If you are banging the tunes out loud and long it's going to shutdown on ya.

    I'm not a Kicker homer by any means. Just speaking from the experience I've had with those amps. The Kicker gear I've had in my boats have been the only Kicker gear I've ever had. I put the same gear in my new boat because of the experience I had with them in the old one. The new boat came with the 700.5 and the Kicker Cabins. So far I have been pleased with them and they will work for me until I can drop the coin on my full Wetsounds system.
    SOLD! 2011 Mobius LSV 325HP EFI
    Digital Cruise Pro, Wakeplate, Kenwood KM550U and KCA-RC107MR x2, Kicker ZXM700.5, Kicker 6.5 Cabins, 10'' Kicker CompVT sub, Wetsounds SYN 4, Wetsounds REV10s, Wetsounds WS420Q, Gravity VI Surf Ballast, Acme 537

    Board: '12 LF Harley (Monster) 139
    Her Board: '11 Ronix Krush 128
    Kids Board: '13 Ronix Vision 120
    Skate: LF Faction 44
    Surf: LF Custom Quad & XXX


    Tow Rig:
    2011 Toyota Tundra CrewMax TRD Magnetic Grey
    3/1 Truxx Lift, and some other stuff...

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    13

    Default

    The class d's are supposed to run alot cooler. I found a guy online says he can get the jl 700.5 for $329 and the jl 400.4 for $259. Both class d amps. Probably gonna go with those two if his prices are right and in stock.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    The Woodlands, Texas
    Posts
    59

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    I run a kicker ix500.4, kicker ix1000.1, arc audio 300.2, and arc audio 300.4. Two srm-29's for stereo. I drained both batteries playing volume about 50-70% last Sunday (almost 4hrs playing). Weather was low 90's.

    The amps were warm to touch, but didn't go into protect mode. Started having problems with kickers when voltage went down below 12v.

    Do it right first time...wish I had!

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    13

    Default

    I have a jl 700.5 class d marine amp for the cabins and sub and the kicker 450.2 for the towers on the way. Should be here next week. Think I'm gonna go ahead and add an extra battery while im at it also. I was gonna come off the battery with 1gauge wire into two 4 gauge wires to the amps through distro boxes. Would this be the best way to go about it? Thanks for the help.

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Lake Wylie NC Area
    Posts
    752

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by oleblue22 View Post
    I have a jl 700.5 class d marine amp for the cabins and sub and the kicker 450.2 for the towers on the way. Should be here next week. Think I'm gonna go ahead and add an extra battery while im at it also. I was gonna come off the battery with 1gauge wire into two 4 gauge wires to the amps through distro boxes. Would this be the best way to go about it? Thanks for the help.
    You are on the right path. 4ga to each amp with a 1/0 trunk line is perfect for those two amp. Just be sure to include some primary circuit protection on the 1/0 B+ right off the battery and you will be set. Id say a 100A fuse or breaker (my preference) would do you.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    13

    Default

    Copy that, I'll include a circuit breaker. I just ordered the perko battery switch and picked up a marine deep cell battery for my second battery setup. The wiring looks pretty simple. Does an extra wire need to run from the starter or can I use the one that's in place now to hook to the perko?

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Lake Wylie NC Area
    Posts
    752

    Default

    Everything thats connected to your current battery's + post, except the auto bilge wire, needs to be moved to the "C" post of the new switch.

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    13

    Default

    Ok that's easy enough. So I just leave the factory circuit breaker in place? I have some 1 gauge welding cable leads. Would it work for my trunk lines off the battery and for connecting the two batteries together?

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Posts
    13

    Default

    Got everything installed yesterday. Sounds amazing compared to what it did before. I did the perko battery switch with dual batteries. I ended up going with the kicker 450.2 for the towers and the JL audio 700.5 for the cabins and sub. That JL is super small and light but it really puts out the power. Replaced the head unit with a kenwood 550u and put a new wired remote in also on the driver side. I'm really happy with it. Thanks for your guys help.

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