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07-01-2012, 11:02 AM #1
How to make functional a basic setup
OK, so the kids have been bugging me for tunes while they surf. I run a shoestring operation here so just trying to set up something basic that makes noise. I picked up a couple Pyle tower speakers and and a 2 channel amp and a second battery. Just trying to figure out how to set it up. Do/can I run positive and ground direct from the battery? I wired it up on the floor just to check before I started drilling and I have the power antenna lead from the head unit going to Remote On on the amp. RCA cables from head unit to amp. Speakers wired from amp. When I power on the head unit, the amp lights flash, but nothing. Any idea what I'm doing wrong? Thanks.
07-01-2012, 12:35 PM #2
Since you are adding a 2nd battery, I would suggest getting a multi-battery switch also. This will allow you to isolate the main cranking from the house (stereo) loads while playing with the engine off.
Do/can I run positive and ground direct from the battery
I have the power antenna lead from the head unit going to Remote On on the amp
RCA cables from head unit to amp
Speakers wired from amp. When I power on the head unit, the amp lights flash, but nothing. Any idea what I'm doing wrong?
07-02-2012, 11:38 AM #3
Thanks again for any help. I hate electric work.
07-02-2012, 09:02 PM #4
Ok, you can bypass the the suspect turn-on circuit by jumping right from the amp's B+ terminal to the amp's remote turn-on terminal. See if it powers up with a steady light. If the light still flashes, then power down, remove the speaker wires and power back up. Now see if you have a steady light.
The amp light(s) should be steady and not flashing. This could be due to low voltage. Although your battery is new, what is the voltage level? batteries can often sit on a shelf for awhile and dissipate over time.
Lets make the system functional before moving on to the switch and 2nd battery.
07-03-2012, 04:22 PM #5
07-03-2012, 09:44 PM #6
Ideally, we want the head-unit to turn the amp(s), on, but if the antenna lead doesnt work, a simple toggle will do.
Switch and battery bank: the GND of battery-2 needs to be connected to the GND of battery-1. I would suggest 1/0 gauge.
ALL the cables currently connected to the POS post of the original battery, except the auto bilge B+, need to be relocated to the "C" post fo the switch. This includes the amp(s) and all stereo gear also. Then, connect battery-1 POS to the switch post "1" and the POS of battery-2 to the switch post "2".
All loads will draw from which ever battery you have the switch selected to. In return, the alternator will charge which ever battery the switch is selected to.