With that particular dual-circuit switch, I would leave the amp's trunk like right where it is. Also, cant ell from the diagram if you have any circuit protection for that amp B+ line.
Results 11 to 20 of 47
08-23-2012, 05:17 PM #11
08-23-2012, 07:10 PM #12
So Mike what's the thinking on Distro block straight to the battery vs. the switch? I guess it wouldn't make any difference as far as isolating or combining the batteries and it would remove a piece of equipment from the power loop of the stereo.
My thinking is a Boat is a Noise maching, theres no true ground to it. I prefer, maybe its just me but i dont like my stereo going threw the isolator, or switching system of any kind. I prefer to run my Distro block straight to my Battery,
Another thread ago there was a concern as to why you even have a Fused distro block when you have a fuse on the main line from the battery to the distro.
This is my thinking on that as well. Take it for what its worth.
I use a 300 AMP fuse on my O guage line from my battery to the Distro. This is enough to pop if the battery becomes shorted but still large enough to allow all my amps to power at 100% demand.
I then have each amp individually fused at my Distro, this protects each amp seperatly from shorting and drawing too puch power directly off my battery bank. It also ensure is a Surge goes past my 300 fuse it pops before it hits my actual Amp fuses. Now my 2500.1 has no amp fuses so this also protects that amp just as if it had its own seperate fuses.
Some may disagree with my redudent fusing theory but for me, i have been doing it like this for my whole stereo life 20+ years now and have never lost an amp, distro, battery or cable to a short. I have lost fuses but never components.
As for the Switching system mine is slightly different because im not running an onboard charger but i have circuit breakers between my Switch and the ACR but that is so i can open loop them and charge both banks off a single digital charger.
08-23-2012, 08:30 PM #132011 Mobius LSV
08-23-2012, 08:47 PM #14
That makes since Ron, I would still prefer my stereo directly to the battery. Your charging is different then mine which is why i wasnt questioning or opting to change that set up.
08-23-2012, 08:59 PM #15
I do see your point on not connecting the stereo through the switch. I think I could just move my Distro to the battery and keep the charging setup and switch the same. Need to check that when i get home and can check the diagram.2011 Mobius LSV
08-23-2012, 09:20 PM #16
I totally agree with Mike on his own set-up. If he has that level of amplifier power un-fused the individually fused distribution block isn't considered redundant.
Those using an ACR/VSR without a dual circuit switch or with another type of switch will wire ALL stereo components battery direct. Past a certain point they don't want to wire too large of a system draw through a lighter duty switch with multiple 5/16" posts and additional connectors. Mike feels he has past that threshold.
On your system, even with some future expansion, I would maintain the full and intended functionality of the Blue Sea switch. It's all 3/8" posts and definitely rated to handle serious current. Otherwise why even use the switch.
08-23-2012, 11:31 PM #17
David thanks for checking in. I know you have a lot of experience in this area. I think I will stay with my original plan for now. Thanks everyone.2011 Mobius LSV
08-24-2012, 12:41 PM #18
I know nothing of your system or how it is used, except the components listed in your sig and the points you have highlighted in your post above. None the less, I do not want to compare your setup to the OP's.
As I stated, with that particular switch, I would keep the house battery on post-2A and the loads on post-2B. Taking the amp feed right to the battery post circumvents the isolation function of this switch. At that point, the only thing terminating to the switch on the house side would be the ACR. This serves little purpose, except when shore charging.
Once the switch is closed, all stereo components will be sharing the same battery B+ reference. If the battery GND's are all connected and completing the circuit to the engine block, then I see the switch having no bearing on the ground circuit.
If the OP was using a traditional 3-post dual battery switch with an ACR, then yes, I would probably take the amp's trunk line right to the house battery B+.
In R.E. to a fused distrobution block: Yes, they can be redundant and not always needed. I am not against using a fused block, but when the math comes up right and the customer is only wanting a basic install, then I do not use one, but opt for a pair of non-fused distrobution blocks. Things that factor in to this are:
1) Are my amps internally fused = These fuses protect the amp and circuit from an internal amp short.
2) What is my total combined load = The main circuit protection needs to be the weakest link. It needs to carry the potential load, but not exceed the capacity of the cabling, and this includes the short runs of 4ga from the block to the amp. The odds of a short occuring on that 18" stretch of 4ga from the block to the amp is slim to none. But, lets say your goofy bro-inlaw tossed the anchor in the locker and it cut through the cables and shorted a 4ga B+ to a 4ga GND. I need to calculate that that run of 4ga will handle the short, thus allowing the main to trip.
3) Distance from battery to amps where the non-fused will be and distance from there to the amp.
So, its not a one-size-fits-all, but in may systems, it can be done without the added fused block. I would much rather see a system with redundant fusing, as opposed to one with a fused distro block next to the amps and a unprotected trunk line. Hope this clears up my point of view.
08-24-2012, 01:34 PM #19
MLA, I wasnt saying anything was wrong with RCA idea, nor yours, i was only saying i wouldnt run it like that.
I use a Switch in my system the same style, says ON OFF and COMBINE. I Run 1 cable from my Stereo Bank to the Switch, and all my stereo runs threw the Distro block and then a single 0 guage line threw a Fuse then to the battery +. My two banks are of course connected threw a Negative cable.
In my experience with the way its set up my ACR is able to do its job, i have both banks isolated.
My stereo bank can go dead, the Starter bank stays charged, or vis versa.
My ACR charges the starter bank till its at X voltage then switches to the Stereo bank and charges it.
I am not trying to say what you or Dave is doing or saying is wrong, not at all. I was only saying in my experience and my preferance is that i dont hook my Stereo Main cable from the distro block right to that switch. I dont like adding that into my Stereo Leg. I want my power for the stereo leg comming directly from the battery. 1 less break in my cable from the Battery to the Distro.
In the above diagram the Disto goes to the Switch. This switch is not isolated, its not grounded, its not insulated. its posts, mounted in Plastic, with a rotary switch selecting what you ask for. Its also just a basic metal strip on the switch doing the work.
This is why i prefer to have the stereo main power cable right at the battery. Then i run a cable from the battery to the distro for my stereo bank.
I dont understand why theres even a concern here, the only difference in any of this is i use a second cable and your option is to not. Does it really matter? No i dont think it does, and this is why i plainly stated its my preference, just the way i do it. I am not trying to have Ron do it my way, hes more then pleased to do your way. Its fine with me, i just only offering my thoughts on the subject.
08-24-2012, 01:44 PM #20
Ron, im going to step out of your thread, i hate to see every stereo thread on this forum go south like this one is going. I would be happy to answer your questions, or have someone help you with anything you need. I just dont want to keep having to post up about one persons thoughts versus anothers ones thoughts.