Yes, just wire the 2nd house battery in parallel (+ to +/- to -) with the existing house battery. They will become one large battery. 2 things to be aware: 1) Combining and older/used battery with a new battery will bring down the new one as the they will equalize. This may reduce the overall life span of the new battery being added in. The age and condition of the existing battery will determine by how much. 2) How deeply this 2-battery house bank is depleted on a given trip, will have some impact on how effective the existing ACR continues to be.
Results 21 to 30 of 32
03-19-2013, 07:39 PM #21
03-19-2013, 07:55 PM #22
exp Deka 24 series Marine Deep Wet Cell.
Your other option with what MLA is saying is, if the two batteries you currently have are the same style and age, combine them and make your new added the Starter battery.Malo <--- Means--Evil or Mean One. This explains a lot.
2013 Mojo 2.5 Skylon Tower. Bestia < Beast >
6 SX65M Cabins
6 XM9 Towers
1 XI Big 15 Woofer in a custom Fiberglass box
1 XI 1K Harpoon
2 XI 800.4
1 XI 2500.1
2 Interstate 2400U 6V Golf Cart Batterties
Custom 1 Off Evolution Cover
03-19-2013, 11:44 PM #23
Okay, so let's say you take your existing two batteries (both would have to be deep cycle, one starting and one designated stereo) and they are the same size, age and chemistry. Identical in every aspect except usage. So you parallel these two for the stereo bank. One stereo battery had repetitively been deeply discharged while the other starting battery was barely discharged. Depending on the usage and duration these two identical batteries may no longer be identical. Now they may have a very different impedance.
Of course, you would like to keep your two existing batteries and put them to use if they are similar enough and both are still in good shape. So I would do this.
Place the two batteries in parallel.
Split them up once they are known to be fully charged and check the resting voltage of each after the charging voltage dissipates.
Let them sit for several days in isolation and check the voltage of each.
Split them up once they are discharged and check the voltage of each.
If the voltage is the same in all cases, then I wouldn't be concerned with these two batteries being paralleled into a single bank long term.
If I saw discrepancies then I would know to replace them with two new and identical batteries.
It's not very sophisticated but I would feel more confident by simply measuring.
03-26-2013, 12:23 PM #24Junior Member
- Join Date
- May 2012
- Buford, GA
OK, Got it. I'm going with new batteries this season anyhow so it will be net new. My stereo is pretty tame compared to others on the thread so I may not even do the 3 battery configuration.
However, I would love to hear what batteries you prefer. I ran Interstate last season (no issues besides my stupidity of depleting it. Had spare and got home safely!), thinking about Optima or Seavolt #27's in either. Saw a #31, but that seems a bit overkill for an LSV. Thoughts?
Thanks Again for all this great info.
03-26-2013, 12:43 PM #25
AGM batteries (Optima and Seavolt) have many attributes that make them superior to standard flooded lead acid batteries.
Btw, a West Marine Seavolt is a Deka battery which makes an excellent product.
However, most elect to go with a standard lead acid battery like the Interstate deep cycle (27 or 29) because of the greater dollar to amp/hour ratio. Tough to beat the old standard in that respect.
If going with a single stereo battery then definitely step up to a group 29 or 31 for the moderate size and investment difference. Go strictly with deep cycle.
03-26-2013, 05:28 PM #26
to the OP's original question.........I think i ended up buying mine from Gander Mountain online on sale cheaper than I could find anywhere else. But that might have been a one time deal??2007 Moomba Outback - waiting for summer!
Why Not? Play Hard! Get wet
03-26-2013, 06:17 PM #27Junior Member
- Join Date
- May 2012
- Buford, GA
Last question besides battery brand opinions. In the picture there is a non-fused is the GRD(-) Dist Block and then a connection to a GRD (-) Bus Bar. Doesn't the Dist Block and the Bus Bar essentially do the same thing? Is that for future expansion?
03-26-2013, 07:37 PM #28
You could have three types of distribution on both the supply and ground side.
One is the large power distribution block. This takes the main feed and splits it up to the multiple amplifier extensions.
Second is a barrier strip that is used as a transition from large gauge to small gauge wiring (for source electronics, processors, line amps, ipod charging, Bluetooth charging, fans, relays, etc.). This mainly keeps the installation clean and is the one that I assume your question is about.
Third is the factory ground buss & fuse block found under the driver's helm.
03-27-2013, 03:00 PM #29Sent by the random thoughts from the voices in my head...
04-01-2013, 12:40 PM #30Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2011
- denver co
I'm trying to follow this as I want to add a 3rd battery to my setup. ! starting and two stereo. I'd only need a two bank charger as one would charge the starting battery and the other would charge the two stereo batteries wired together. I use the factory isolator. So chat happens when my charge goes above 13.8 volts? The charger would see both banks as one large battery? Confused