Page 1 of 4 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 32
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Unhappy about our NorCal Lake Levels!
    Posts
    516

    Default Blue Seas Switch & ACR - Where to buy and how to wire...

    So now that you guys have helped me pick out my stereo HU, amps and design my sub enclosure, I just need the battery upgrade and charging system.

    I plan on adding;
    1. A Blue Sea Switch
    2. A Blue Sea ACR
    3. A second battery
    4. Promarine 20, Dual Bank Charger
    And I have the following questions,
    1. What part numbers for the Blue Sea Switch and ACR?
    2. Where to buy - Where online?
    3. Wire it per the following (except modify it for my Kicker amps and no ZLD) and yes I read the thread that I stole the diagram from!!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Keuka Lake, NY
    Posts
    5,865

    Default

    A Day at the Lake...Priceless
    A Day in Powder...Endless


    Joe V
    2012 Möbius XLV~ Loaded & Exiled
    2007 Outback V ~ sold

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Sugar Land, TX
    Posts
    610

    Default

    I got mine at:

    http://www.marinepartssource.com/new...ank%20Combiner

    Cheapest I could find it.

    If you want the diagram in visio I can email you the original. Send me a PM.
    2011 Mobius LSV

    Ron

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Lake Wylie NC Area
    Posts
    782

    Default

    The link above is for correct Blue Sea 7610 ACR. The proper switch is the Blue Sea 5511 (the 6011 is the mini if your space is limited). Or, you can by the Blue Sea "Add-A-Battery" Kit with both together, part number 7650.

    The current flow of the wire diagram you posted is spot on in regards to how the switch, ACR, amps, batteries and charger are wired.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Sugar Land, TX
    Posts
    610

    Default

    Sorry about that. I got the add a battery option.
    2011 Mobius LSV

    Ron

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Traverse City, MI
    Posts
    2,393

    Default

    I also did the Add a Battery kit, got it on sale at West Marine.

    Just added an ACR and 2nd battery to my buddies LSV and also got the ACR at West. ~$100 in stock makes impromptu projects easy!

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Unhappy about our NorCal Lake Levels!
    Posts
    516

    Default

    Well, I stopped by West Marine today and picked up the ProSport 20 and the Blue Sea "Add a Battery" kit.

    I am almost done with my sub-enclosure and am waiting for my amps to get here.

    I have modded rca's diagram to match my components:
    1. Do I need an inline fuse at the (HU) head unit?
    2. I left the ground strip in before the HU for future, is this a good idea?
    3. Any general comments? Changes?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Lake Wylie NC Area
    Posts
    782

    Default

    1) The head-unit has a fuse in its power harness to protect the rest of the circuit if an internal short where to occur. Having an in-line fuse at the source where head-unit obtains its power, is a good idea to protect that circuit if there was a short in the circuit between the head-unit and source. The odds are very slim, but it doesnt hurt,
    2) I see no issue here
    3)You will not need 1/0 GND and B+ for the IX1000.5. 4ga will be fine.
    4) Whats the distance between the B+ distro-block and the amps? Is that B+ block a fused or non-fused?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Unhappy about our NorCal Lake Levels!
    Posts
    516

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MLA View Post
    ...3)You will not need 1/0 GND and B+ for the IX1000.5. 4ga will be fine.
    I put the 1/0 in due to the amp specs for "largest conductor..." which I understand is the largest that the lug will accept.

    I used the listed total Total RMS Power = 1,000 watts/12V = 83 amps
    When I did the calc, with 1.5' length and a 2% Voltage drop, I got a #8 AWG. I don't mind using #4s or even larger as the runs are very short from the distro block to the amps even though the larger wires can be more difficult to run. I figure that the amps, batteries and blocks will be in the storage area.

    4) Whats the distance between the B+ distro-block and the amps? Is that B+ block a fused or non-fused?
    I don't think that the runs will be very long at all if I can fit them all in the storage area. The only item that I hope to have farther away will be the Pro20.

    And for the the B+ block, I haven't purchased any yet -- so any suggestions???

    As a matter of fact, when I was in West Marine today, I had my grubby mits on a couple of ground strips of different sizes (one had 3/8" lugs), but then I figured that I should finish this diagram first!!

    Thanks again for any help! Eric.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Lake Wylie NC Area
    Posts
    782

    Default

    You would have a hard time getting 1/0 into the lugs. 4ga will serve you just fine. Its not overboard, nor is it cutting corners. Although that amp calls for a 100A external fuse based on its potential draw, due to its efficiency, I doubt you would see a continuous draw over 60A. Keep in mind that the cable gauge calc's need to include the length of the GND cables as well. I bet if you recalculated using 3", that you would come closer to 4ga.

    With your scheme, I do not see a need for anymore fusing past the main 150A breaker you have right off the battery. You can use a pair of non-fused distribution blocks or BUSS bars. If you do go with marine BUSS bar, like what you probably looked at at West Marine, I would recommend one with a cover for the B+.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •