boat cranks but wont start

[kaneboats]

I have the same problem as boat won't stay cranked. i have read this post and others so i will start in the middle. Please tell me if this is possible....

• The fuel pump does not cycle when the iginition is turned on.
• I have fire but it won't stay cranked when I release the key switch. (I don't have consistent fire.....fires/turns over sometimes....sometimes not)
• If I put the volt meter on the fuel pump I get a reading only when the switch is engaged and only when the engines fires.
• I don't get a reading if the engines does not fire.
• When I disconnect the fuel pump I get a reading on the volt meter every time I turn the ignition switch.
  
  Anyone else have this problem? Does this lead to a solution? Or, am I imagining things?
  
  Where do I find the ECM and the reset circuit switch box? [2001 Moomba Outback LS]

I think on your model there's a big red button on the back of the engine. You almost have to stick your head under the clam shell to see it. That's where it was on my 2000. Usually everything will be dead though if you need to reset that one. In later models it's behind the observer's seat on the wall.

[Bend]

OK, so that's the ECM? The 50 amp thing? Yes, I do have power to blower, radio, etc, so that is not my problem, right? i also put the volt meter to it and get 11.5 volts on it and the thing next to it.

I have also replaced the ignition. It originally had a Quicksilver keyless iginition but I think it was ruined by water.

Does the power to the fuel pump make any sense to you?

[kaneboats]

Where's Malo? He's the troubleshooter.

[james yarosz]

Hey Doug,for future reference what did O,reilys get a fuel pump for? I have an 03 carbed LS.I haven't had any issues but I like to be prepared.

[Bend]

I did not solve my problem last fall so I'm back at it this weekend and hope to have some help from this forum. To add to my previous post I connected the fuel pump directly to the battery and it is working so it isn't the fuel pump.

When i replaced the ignition I used:
Yellow/Red - Start
Purple - Ignition
red - Battery

Is this correct?

Has anyone had to replace the circuit board on their Moomba?

Thanks.

[rdlangston13]

Air fuel and spark...start with spark, then verify fuel with a fuel pressure gauge or test light, then check compression. If you have all three it should run


Sent from my iPhone

[parrothd]

Did you check the oil pressure sensor?

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2

[Bend]

Did you check the oil pressure sensor?

Sent from my Nexus 4 using Tapatalk 2

Sensor, not gauge, correct? Located on engine?

Going up to lake this weekend. Will try this.

Thanks.

[z28ke]

For basic diagnostic: If its a Holley carb start by taking off the flame arrestor on top of the carb. Have someone pump the throttle while you look down the carb, paying attention to the front two barrels. When the throttle is pumped you should see a stream of fuel come from the squirter, which is located between the two front barrels towards the front of the barrels with a Phillips head screw on top. The stream of fuel will hit the venturi, the little round thing in the middle of each barrel. For the sake of basic diagnostics if it squirts you have fuel.

Next check your spark. Remove a spark plug, put the wire back on it and hold the head of the plug against the block or anything else metal. Keep your fingers on the plug boot so you don't get a zap from the coil, and have someone try to start the engine. You should see the plug sparking as the engine turns over.

Try this and report back!

[Bend]

[Can't see where this was posted. Apologies if re-posted]

Thanks to all for the suggestions!

Back from the lake. Problem remains. I don't have access to the internet at the lake so it continues to be a back-and-forth thing.

Some of this is repeating but this is what I have:
1) Ignition in the start position - engine fires and RUNS.
2) When I release the switch (to the ON position the engine dies. I may be wrong but this tells me my problem is totally electrical.
3) Multi-Meter in the ON position shows 12 volts so my wiring of the NEW standard keyed ignition is correct (yellow/red, purple, red wires)
4) With the ignition in ON position: no reading on gauges, blower runs, depth finder shows power and readings. Bilge pump doesn't work but I have 12 volts reading on the multi-meter so I assume the bilge pump is dead.
5) When I unplug the wiring plug under the dash that says "to the guages" and plug back I hear the sound of the gauges 're-setting' but don't see any reading when looking back at the gauges.

Boat was bought used with keyless ignition installed. Atlanta Marine says they did not install the keyless ignition. I was having some problems starting the boat before the keyless ignition went bad. I would have to unplug the wiring harness in the back of the engine to reset the gauges and start the engine.

I have a picture of some wiring in the rear of the engine that doesn't look like factory wiring that I would like to share with anyone willing to help. It is a red wire that has been cut and spliced with two yellow/black wires. One striped wire goes to the other red wire and the other goes to a purple wire. I am not at the boat and I can't remember if I saw a disconnected/cut purple wire.

I hopes this helps.

Thanks again.