Relocate and New Ballast Switches

[EricU]

So I am redoing the interior and getting new dash switch covers from the guys at OTRATTW (took me a while to figure out THAT name)

So I figured that I would also take the time to replace and relocate the rediculous stock placement of the Hippo Ballast Switches up higher were we can

1. See them
2. Get to them
3. Hopefully not leave them on
4. NOT Fill/Dump the wrong ones

• Can I replace the existing 6 switches with 3 switches?
• And would they be DPDTs? (Double Pole Double Throw)

Thanks, Eric.

Moomba Ballast Switches.jpgHippo Panel.jpgSwitches (3).jpgSwitches (1).jpg

[dhyams]

I don't see any reason why you could not replace the 6 with three. You would have three switches that when you flip them upward, fill...downward, drain.

I believe these are DPST (double pole single throw) switches. But I would ask the folks at otrattw to verify.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Single_...ct_terminology

[bergermaister]

Get 'er done - http://www.wakemakers.com/supra-moom...st-switch.html
They have new label options for the switch covers now too which is nice.

Shouldn't be a problem. You'll have a few extra unused +/- leads but that's about it.
Food for thought...

[beat taco]

These build your own switch holders are great too.
http://www.wakemakers.com/ballast-sw...panel-end.html

[EricU]

These build your own switch holders are great too.
http://www.wakemakers.com/ballast-sw...panel-end.html

Thanks guys for the tips.

Looks like SC should have hired some of you guys back when my boat was built!

Hope they are putting them in a better place nowadays.


I think that while I am at it, I might add a couple of extra switches for any future upgrades, not sure what for, but while I am whittling away at the fiberglass, I would rather only do it once.


Thanks again, Eric.

[mmandley]

EricU

Yes i would agree you can use the updated new switches. I would how ever take a minute and look how the old ones are wired.

I know the new ones are a daisey chain power and ground system for the main switch power. It also has seperate power from each fuse block for that particular pump.

You might be better off not using any of the old wireing and running new from the fuse panel down to the switches them selves.

This last summer i replaced all my ballast system and upgraded the pumps so i reran all the wires to the switches. The double throw can be a bit intimidating due to the multiple power points and ground each switch uses. It will need power for Foward, Reverse, and the Light in the switch.

In your case your going to need Forward and a seperate reverse if you are using the areator style pumps as you need two pumps to fuill / drain verses the jobsco style pumps.

Hit me up if you get lost or need a hand in what direction to go with it all

[EricU]

...I would how ever take a minute and look how the old ones are wired.

I know the new ones are a daisy chain power and ground system for the main switch power. It also has separate power from each fuse block for that particular pump.

I have no idea as I have not even looked at the existing ballast pump switches, as I kind of just got the idea and what I call the “Zipper Effect” (“while I am here, I might as well change that…”) is kicking in.

You might be better off not using any of the old wiring and running new from the fuse panel down to the switches themselves.

This last summer i replaced all my ballast system and upgraded the pumps so i reran all the wires to the switches. The double throw can be a bit intimidating due to the multiple power points and ground each switch uses. It will need power for Forward, Reverse, and the Light in the switch.

That is what I have been thinking, now I need to figure out:

1. What I have
2. What I want
3. What I might have in the future

In your case you’re going to need Forward and a separate reverse if you are using the aerator style pumps as you need two pumps to fill / drain verses the jobsco style pumps.

I have no idea what pumps I have, I assume they are whatever came with the boat and I have no idea on how they are wired.

Hit me up if you get lost or need a hand in what direction to go with it all

HELP!!!?

1. Where do I start?
2. I guess yanking out the existing switch panel?
3. Can you hear that Zipper!!!

Thanks again, Eric.

[bergermaister]

2002 right? $10 says you have aerator pumps.

Switching over your wiring to new switches should be piece of cake (still). Which means running all new wiring to the pumps is really not necessary if they are all working at the moment. Unless you're looking for ways to tear the skin off your knuckles during the winter months.

[jstenger]

So I am redoing the interior and getting new dash switch covers from the guys at OTRATTW (took me a while to figure out THAT name)

So I figured that I would also take the time to replace and relocate the rediculous stock placement of the Hippo Ballast Switches up higher were we can

1. See them
2. Get to them
3. Hopefully not leave them on
4. NOT Fill/Dump the wrong ones

• Can I replace the existing 6 switches with 3 switches?
• And would they be DPDTs? (Double Pole Double Throw)

Thanks, Eric.

Moomba Ballast Switches.jpgHippo Panel.jpgSwitches (3).jpgSwitches (1).jpg

If you are using three reversabale pumps, you need three DPDT switches. You will need to bring a (-) lead to the center left and a (+) lead to the center right of each switch. Wakemakers has a wiring diagram for this.

http://media.wakemakers.com/2012/08/...pump-switches/

If you are using six aerator pumps (three fill and three empty), you can use three DPDT switches or three SPDT switches. You only need to bring the (+) lead to the center of the switch. The grounds (-) for all the pumps can go directly to the ground block. And note that you only need to use one side of the DPDT switch in this case.

[NCSUmoomba]

Cool switches. I like the eject seat one.