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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Unhappy about our NorCal Lake Levels!
    Posts
    516

    Default Relocate and New Ballast Switches

    So I am redoing the interior and getting new dash switch covers from the guys at OTRATTW (took me a while to figure out THAT name)

    So I figured that I would also take the time to replace and relocate the rediculous stock placement of the Hippo Ballast Switches up higher were we can

    1. See them
    2. Get to them
    3. Hopefully not leave them on
    4. NOT Fill/Dump the wrong ones


    • Can I replace the existing 6 switches with 3 switches?
    • And would they be DPDTs? (Double Pole Double Throw)


    Thanks, Eric.

    Moomba Ballast Switches.jpgHippo Panel.jpgSwitches (3).jpgSwitches (1).jpg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Chattanooga, TN
    Posts
    110

    Default

    I don't see any reason why you could not replace the 6 with three. You would have three switches that when you flip them upward, fill...downward, drain.

    I believe these are DPST (double pole single throw) switches. But I would ask the folks at otrattw to verify.

    http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Single_...ct_terminology
    ===================================
    2005 Moomba Mobius LSV

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Vancouver, WA
    Posts
    4,109

    Default

    Get 'er done - http://www.wakemakers.com/supra-moom...st-switch.html
    They have new label options for the switch covers now too which is nice.

    Shouldn't be a problem. You'll have a few extra unused +/- leads but that's about it.
    Food for thought...
    Old enough to know better, young enough to do it anyway.

    2001 MobiusV

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Portland Oregon
    Posts
    813

    Default

    These build your own switch holders are great too.
    http://www.wakemakers.com/ballast-sw...panel-end.html
    -Jake

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Unhappy about our NorCal Lake Levels!
    Posts
    516

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by beat taco View Post
    These build your own switch holders are great too.
    http://www.wakemakers.com/ballast-sw...panel-end.html
    Thanks guys for the tips.

    Looks like SC should have hired some of you guys back when my boat was built!

    Hope they are putting them in a better place nowadays.


    I think that while I am at it, I might add a couple of extra switches for any future upgrades, not sure what for, but while I am whittling away at the fiberglass, I would rather only do it once.


    Thanks again, Eric.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Carlton Oregon
    Posts
    6,029

    Default

    EricU

    Yes i would agree you can use the updated new switches. I would how ever take a minute and look how the old ones are wired.

    I know the new ones are a daisey chain power and ground system for the main switch power. It also has seperate power from each fuse block for that particular pump.

    You might be better off not using any of the old wireing and running new from the fuse panel down to the switches them selves.

    This last summer i replaced all my ballast system and upgraded the pumps so i reran all the wires to the switches. The double throw can be a bit intimidating due to the multiple power points and ground each switch uses. It will need power for Foward, Reverse, and the Light in the switch.

    In your case your going to need Forward and a seperate reverse if you are using the areator style pumps as you need two pumps to fuill / drain verses the jobsco style pumps.

    Hit me up if you get lost or need a hand in what direction to go with it all
    Malo <--- Means--Evil or Mean One. This explains a lot.
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  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Unhappy about our NorCal Lake Levels!
    Posts
    516

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by mmandley View Post
    ...I would how ever take a minute and look how the old ones are wired.

    I know the new ones are a daisy chain power and ground system for the main switch power. It also has separate power from each fuse block for that particular pump.
    I have no idea as I have not even looked at the existing ballast pump switches, as I kind of just got the idea and what I call the “Zipper Effect” (“while I am here, I might as well change that…”) is kicking in.


    You might be better off not using any of the old wiring and running new from the fuse panel down to the switches themselves.

    This last summer i replaced all my ballast system and upgraded the pumps so i reran all the wires to the switches. The double throw can be a bit intimidating due to the multiple power points and ground each switch uses. It will need power for Forward, Reverse, and the Light in the switch.
    That is what I have been thinking, now I need to figure out:
    1. What I have
    2. What I want
    3. What I might have in the future




    In your case you’re going to need Forward and a separate reverse if you are using the aerator style pumps as you need two pumps to fill / drain verses the jobsco style pumps.
    I have no idea what pumps I have, I assume they are whatever came with the boat and I have no idea on how they are wired.



    Hit me up if you get lost or need a hand in what direction to go with it all
    HELP!!!?
    1. Where do I start?
    2. I guess yanking out the existing switch panel?
    3. Can you hear that Zipper!!!




    Thanks again, Eric.

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Vancouver, WA
    Posts
    4,109

    Default

    2002 right? $10 says you have aerator pumps.

    Switching over your wiring to new switches should be piece of cake (still). Which means running all new wiring to the pumps is really not necessary if they are all working at the moment. Unless you're looking for ways to tear the skin off your knuckles during the winter months.
    Old enough to know better, young enough to do it anyway.

    2001 MobiusV

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Vicksburg, MI
    Posts
    535

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by EricU View Post
    So I am redoing the interior and getting new dash switch covers from the guys at OTRATTW (took me a while to figure out THAT name)

    So I figured that I would also take the time to replace and relocate the rediculous stock placement of the Hippo Ballast Switches up higher were we can

    1. See them
    2. Get to them
    3. Hopefully not leave them on
    4. NOT Fill/Dump the wrong ones


    • Can I replace the existing 6 switches with 3 switches?
    • And would they be DPDTs? (Double Pole Double Throw)


    Thanks, Eric.

    Moomba Ballast Switches.jpgHippo Panel.jpgSwitches (3).jpgSwitches (1).jpg
    If you are using three reversabale pumps, you need three DPDT switches. You will need to bring a (-) lead to the center left and a (+) lead to the center right of each switch. Wakemakers has a wiring diagram for this.

    http://media.wakemakers.com/2012/08/...pump-switches/

    If you are using six aerator pumps (three fill and three empty), you can use three DPDT switches or three SPDT switches. You only need to bring the (+) lead to the center of the switch. The grounds (-) for all the pumps can go directly to the ground block. And note that you only need to use one side of the DPDT switch in this case.
    Joe

    2014 LSV
    2010 Outback V - Sold

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Durham, NC
    Posts
    641

    Default

    Cool switches. I like the eject seat one.
    Brian Roberts
    2001 Outback DD

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