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  1. #91
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Vancouver, WA
    Posts
    3,807

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    Hey Dan- Welcome to the forum!

    1- You could get rear bags with two drains made, but custom bags are very pricy. You are better off with off-the-shelf 1100s and then installing another drain yourself as outlined above to save yourself a few hundy.

    2- You should be able to use your existing switches with a little rewiring. Are you talking about 3 switches each with 2-way rockers (fill / drain)? With 3 bags you are still just doing a fill/drain on each.

    3- The little 750 drain pumps are most likely going to have 3/4" lines. You could keep and reuse those to save your budget a little. They can share a thru hull but ideally you may want them individual so you can tell which bag is empty and which is not if all are running. My setup shares a thru hull for the drain and vent (with a one-way valve on the vent line) for each bag - so 3 total. 2 Fill pumps can share a thru hull but they may end up competing with one another when running at the same time (mine do). Would definitely suggest 1" for the fill side. If you have the room and can keep them below where the water line is to ensure good priming you may want to go with individual thu hulls per pump. Sorta depends on your level of patience waiting for bags to fill too.

    Then there's always the single reversible pump per bag option - somebody's sure to chime in on that.

    4 - I did the battery move a couple season's ago from the rear compartments to up under the glove box. Cabling gets a bit spendy but it is worth it to have full use of the rear compartments for ballast. Plus a necessity if you are going with 1100 bags with drain pump lines connected off the bottom rear at the back of the boat.

    1100's will not get quite full in your MobiusV rear compartments (too big of a bag) so you may have to jockey the bags around when filling every once in a while to make sure you get them as full as possible. The 1180 gravity games bag will fit in your basement locker nicely, just a little crowded up in the bow. I'm assuming you have the playpen seating...

    Lots of help here on the forum and www.wakemakers.com is definitely your friend.

    I went through a very similar upgrade with batteries and ballast, pics always available - and always helpful to post and show what you've got and are working on or asking about.
    Old enough to know better, young enough to do it anyway.

    2001 MobiusV

  2. #92
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    4

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    Hi Berg,
    1) Guess I could just buy the standard bags and if I want to install a transfer pump I can install the extra drains at that time.

    2) I have three fill switches and three drain switches, all single rockers. The drain switches should be ok but the fill switches each turn on the main pump and individually open the separate solenoid valves. This at the very least would have to be re-wired and hopefully I can get them to work with the separate pumps.

    3) I like the idea of having the drain and vent lines together for each pump on the same thru hull. Did you get the y's and one way valves from Wakemakers?

    I'm toying with the idea of installing the intake thru hulls below the water line on the transom, if they're installed as low as possible they shouldn't draw in any debris. I'm concerned that installing two more thru hulls on the bottom of the hull may cause prop cavitation at higher speeds. What are your thoughts on this?

    I don't think I'll be going with the reversible pumps because it can get pretty busy in the boat with our kids and now two grandsons. I'm sure it would only be a matter of time before I forget to turn a pump off and burn it out!

    4) Moving the batteries up to the compartment under the glove box won't work for me because I store towels, wake boards and surf boards there. When I pull the boat out of storage this spring I'll measure the height under the seats fore and aft of the cooler, hopefully the batteries will fit in one of those areas.

    My boat does have the playpen seating and we don't store anything under it so there's plenty of room for the 1180 bag in the basement locker.

    Please post some pics when you have time as I'd like to see them, might make the project go a little smoother.

    TIA
    Dan

  3. #93
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Vancouver, WA
    Posts
    3,807

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ripper View Post

    4) Moving the batteries up to the compartment under the glove box won't work for me because I store towels, wake boards and surf boards there. When I pull the boat out of storage this spring I'll measure the height under the seats fore and aft of the cooler, hopefully the batteries will fit in one of those areas.
    You must have really small boards!

    Hmmm - I'd highly recommend batteries up there or you'll have problems with bag placement in the rear. You could go to sealed batteries and lay them on their side, tuck those under one of the seat compartments. I'm considering doing that with the useless curved storage area under the passenger side cubby door. Storage compartment height under the seats is roughly 7" - just enough to lay a battery on it's side.

    I have 2 batteries up in the cubby plus my amp rack plus about usually a dozen lifejackets stuffed in. It's tight but it works.



    We usually just throw towels on top of the rear ballast bags and move side to side if needed. Rarely are both 1100's full so the towels wouldn't have a place to live. I mean I like to think I'm good, but I'm not THAT good that I need 2,000 of rear ballast when I wakeboard...

    On the switches you may even want to simplify and go with just three 2-way rockers. They're not too expensive and with a "boat load" of kids I could see where you might accidentally be both emptying and filling a bag/bags at the same time and wonder what the hell is taking so long.

    No worries about cavitation of any kind from the thru hulls. Just make sure they are not placed in front of a depth finder puck or a paddle wheel speedo pickup. I've seen boats with the thru hulls on the transom (Supreme) but you couldn't really fill while underway doing that - they do have a debris screen over the pickups though. Then there's the exhaust - plus pump placement and hoses would probably be getting a bit close to rudder movement on these boats. (The hull on the Supreme is way deeper.)

    Here's a link to my project. The majority of my parts came from wakemakers. A few odds and ends off ebay and even amazon. http://www.moomba.com/msgboard/showt...l-1-quot-lines

    I've got a lot more random pictures of stuff on Photobucket as well.
    Old enough to know better, young enough to do it anyway.

    2001 MobiusV

  4. #94
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    4

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    Hi Berg,
    Thanks for all the help, I'll probably set mine up very similar to yours except with dedicated fill pumps for all bags with their own thru hulls. Also I think I'll stay with the 3/4" drain lines with 750 pumps. I'll have to wait until I get the boat out of storage to figure out the battery issue and that probably won't be until after the May long weekend since we can still get snow here up until then. I've added up the parts that I need and it looks like it will be around $1250 before shipping and tax. Do you know if Wakemakers still has the discount for the forum members?

    Have you ever made it out to lake Koocanusa in N.W. Montana?

  5. #95
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Vancouver, WA
    Posts
    3,807

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ripper View Post

    Have you ever made it out to lake Koocanusa in N.W. Montana?
    PM Sent.

    Nope - is that your home lake?


    I'll be lucky to have mine out in May as well, but that doesn't mean the projects have to wait that long...
    Old enough to know better, young enough to do it anyway.

    2001 MobiusV

  6. #96
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    On a NorCal Lake
    Posts
    514

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    Quote Originally Posted by Ripper View Post
    ...I have three fill switches and three drain switches, all single rockers. The drain switches should be ok but the fill switches each turn on the main pump and individually open the separate solenoid valves. This at the very least would have to be re-wired and hopefully I can get them to work with the separate pumps.
    Ripper, last year was my first season with our '02 and I got tired real quick of the stock location of the Hippo system switches - I was always trying to see which switch I was hitting and not knowing which switch was what.

    So I decided to redo the whole system to give me a better (for me) switch location, bigger ballast bags and quicker fill/drain times. The stock system was sloooowwww

    I moved the switches up behind the throttle.
    Moomba Ballast Switches (2).jpg


    I'm toying with the idea of installing the intake thru hulls below the water line on the transom, if they're installed as low as possible they shouldn't draw in any debris. I'm concerned that installing two more thru hulls on the bottom of the hull may cause prop cavitation at higher speeds. What are your thoughts on this?
    I would find it hard to believe that two more thru-hulls would cause cavitation at the flow rates of a boat going through the water, but I would like to hear someone explain it in fluid dynamics terms.



    I don't think I'll be going with the reversible pumps because it can get pretty busy in the boat with our kids and now two grandsons. I'm sure it would only be a matter of time before I forget to turn a pump off and burn it out!
    I was concerned about not hearing the pump also, but I was told by more than one forum member that you could hear the difference. I am old and used to seeing it spit over the side so I added some check valves and wyes and will be hooking them up like this;
    Ballast & Cross Over - 11x17 (02-16-13).jpg


    ...Moving the batteries up to the compartment under the glove box won't work for me because I store towels, wake boards and surf boards there. When I pull the boat out of storage this spring I'll measure the height under the seats fore and aft of the cooler, hopefully the batteries will fit in one of those areas.
    I have two batteries, two amps, the HU's control box and my ACR switch in the hatch area, it does take up some room, but we throw all our towels and clothes right on top.
    Moomba Stereo (4).jpg


    Good luck with your project!!!!
    Sent by the random thoughts from the voices in my head...

    Eric.

  7. #97
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Cumming Ga
    Posts
    290

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    This is absolutely making me want to go with 5 pumps on my boat now for shifting weight from one side to the other for surfing. What a great idea.

  8. #98
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    On a NorCal Lake
    Posts
    514

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    Quote Originally Posted by chadjitsu1 View Post
    This is absolutely making me want to go with 5 pumps on my boat now for shifting weight from one side to the other for surfing. What a great idea.
    I am reusing my stock aerator pump that originally filled three bags through a valve, but it is now just filling the one front bag.

    And I figure by sending WakeMakers money, I am helping to get the economy going!!!

    It should fill a LOT faster than the factory setup.
    Sent by the random thoughts from the voices in my head...

    Eric.

  9. #99
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    4

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by bergermaister View Post
    PM Sent.

    Nope - is that your home lake?


    I'll be lucky to have mine out in May as well, but that doesn't mean the projects have to wait that long...
    Yes, we have a trailer out there just on the canadian side of the border. It's about a 4 hr drive from Calgary but we use it a lot. I have the boat shrink wrapped for the winter and don't want to open it until the weather gets better. (it snowed here today!)

  10. #100

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    I'm a little late to this party, but thought I would chime in.

    We developed our X-Link system a couple of years ago to handle pumping water from one side to the other. Cuts fill and drain times roughly in half for most system. You can read more about it on our site here: http://www.wakemakers.com/x-link-cro...kage-html.html

    As far as bags go, we list all of the X-Link compatible bags on our website, and there are plenty of off-the-shelf options that will work, so you don't have to spend the money for a custom bag, or risk cutting into your own bags to add extra ports.
    WakeMAKERS | WakePROPS | WakeSOUNDS | EasyBoatCare

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