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  1. #11
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    Jun 2008
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    De Pere WI
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    although i'm not as versed as some of the audio guru's on here(where's mla/earmark and brian)..

    I agree 100% with parrot's answer.
    '06 Supra Launch 20SSV-gone but never forgotten

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
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    Lake Wylie NC Area
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    Quote Originally Posted by chawk610 View Post
    ok, I plan on doing this possibly this weekend. I have done a seach on here but I really need it "dumbed down". Does anyone have a really simple diagram they could share?

    Casey
    Are you looking to install a house bank or add a second battery in parallel to an existing battery bank? Sounds like you are installing a house bank with a dual battery switch. If so, its fairly straight forward to wire up the switch and new house battery.

    1) Move ALL (*) cables from the existing cranking battery's B+ post, EXCEPT the bilge pump B+, and move it to the switch's "C" post.
    2) with new cable, connect cranking battery B+ post to the switch post "1"
    3) with a new cable, connect the new house battery's B+ post to switch post "2"
    4) with a new cable, connect from the existing cranking battery GND post to the new house battery GND post.

    OFF = all loads isolated from the batteries
    1 = loads pull from cranking battery 1 and alternator charges battery 1 when engine is running
    2 = loads pull from house battery 2 and alternator charges battery 2 when engine is running
    Both = both batteries are combined to each other, all loads and alternator

    Using an ACR or continuous-duty relay only will work, but I prefer to have a manual switch in a boat. The relay setup will not allow you to use the house battery as a backup cranking if needed.

    * ALL loads include the entire audio setup.

    Hope this helps.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Carlton Oregon
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    6,003

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    Quote Originally Posted by MLA View Post
    Are you looking to install a house bank or add a second battery in parallel to an existing battery bank? Sounds like you are installing a house bank with a dual battery switch. If so, its fairly straight forward to wire up the switch and new house battery.

    1) Move ALL (*) cables from the existing cranking battery's B+ post, EXCEPT the bilge pump B+, and move it to the switch's "C" post.
    2) with new cable, connect cranking battery B+ post to the switch post "1"
    3) with a new cable, connect the new house battery's B+ post to switch post "2"
    4) with a new cable, connect from the existing cranking battery GND post to the new house battery GND post.

    OFF = all loads isolated from the batteries
    1 = loads pull from cranking battery 1 and alternator charges battery 1 when engine is running
    2 = loads pull from house battery 2 and alternator charges battery 2 when engine is running
    Both = both batteries are combined to each other, all loads and alternator

    Using an ACR or continuous-duty relay only will work, but I prefer to have a manual switch in a boat. The relay setup will not allow you to use the house battery as a backup cranking if needed.

    * ALL loads include the entire audio setup.

    Hope this helps.
    My only real concern with this unless im not understanding what your doing it connecting the stereo to the rest of the boat.

    If you want a duel battery so you have the stereo on 1 battery and the rest of the boat on the house battery, typically the way most people do it.

    I had mine connected by,

    Battery 1 is house, + to Pole 1 on switch
    Battery 2 is stereo + to Pole 2 on switch

    Alternator, starter went to Common connect on the switch.

    Ground from battery 1 went to boats ground
    Gound from battery 2 went to Battery 1 ground

    Factory circuit breaker line for master power went to Battery 1 +
    Stereo + and - went to battery 2

    This allows you to run your stereo and if it kills the battery you still have a start battery
    This also allows you to charge eighter the stereo or house battery, dependent on where your switch is selected.
    1 house
    2 stereo
    3 combines both banks as 1 big battery, also allows charging of all batteries

    In this configuration when you switch it to Off it only turns the Boat systems completly off.
    Technically you could turn the stereo on still but since the stereo runs off the rocker switch there is no power to it.
    But if the stereo shorted it would drain that battery still

    <disclaimer im pulling from memory 2 summers ago when i had no ACR>

    I personally never connect my Stereo system to the house battery or allow anything from the boat side to ground with my stereo bank. This keeps the noise out.
    Malo <--- Means--Evil or Mean One. This explains a lot.
    2013 Mojo 2.5 Skylon Tower. Bestia < Beast >
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    6 SX65M Cabins
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  4. #14
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Chattanooga, TN
    Posts
    110

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    Quote Originally Posted by MLA View Post
    Using an ACR or continuous-duty relay only will work, but I prefer to have a manual switch in a boat. The relay setup will not allow you to use the house battery as a backup cranking if needed.
    True, and I guess it's all in the individual's preferences. I very much prefer the relay because of its automatic nature. No switch to flip (having to tell people to get up and move so that I can reach in there and do something), no possibility that you kill your regulator by you (or someone else) flipping the switch to off while the boat is running.

    Normal usage scenario is to float, listen to music, and then crank and go. The relay is perfect for this; batt #1 is kept always charged nicely because it's only used for cranking only; everything else is run off of batt #2. In the low-probability
    situation where batt #1 (the cranking batt) is dead and batt #2 (house batt) is dead, just get out your wrench and ratchet and move the cables...that gets you going (just saying all is not lost if batt #1 is dead but batt #2 is not).
    ===================================
    2005 Moomba Mobius LSV

  5. #15
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Carlton Oregon
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    Quote Originally Posted by dhyams View Post
    True, and I guess it's all in the individual's preferences. I very much prefer the relay because of its automatic nature. No switch to flip (having to tell people to get up and move so that I can reach in there and do something), no possibility that you kill your regulator by you (or someone else) flipping the switch to off while the boat is running.

    Normal usage scenario is to float, listen to music, and then crank and go. The relay is perfect for this; batt #1 is kept always charged nicely because it's only used for cranking only; everything else is run off of batt #2. In the low-probability
    situation where batt #1 (the cranking batt) is dead and batt #2 (house batt) is dead, just get out your wrench and ratchet and move the cables...that gets you going (just saying all is not lost if batt #1 is dead but batt #2 is not).
    I agree with this.

    On my ACR set up i have a switch as well, but its just On Off Combine.
    On is the normal setting to make it work as intended
    Off is for off season or traveling
    Combine allows the system to treat it all as one big battery

    I also have circuit breakers on my battery lines and i open them and can connect my charger to 1 battery and it charges all 3. I close the breakers to re-engage the ACR
    Malo <--- Means--Evil or Mean One. This explains a lot.
    2013 Mojo 2.5 Skylon Tower. Bestia < Beast >
    Exile ZLD
    6 SX65M Cabins
    6 XM9 Towers
    1 XI Big 15 Woofer in a custom Fiberglass box
    1 XI 1K Harpoon
    2 XI 800.4
    1 XI 2500.1
    2 Interstate 2400U 6V Golf Cart Batterties
    Custom 1 Off Evolution Cover

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Lake Wylie NC Area
    Posts
    747

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    Quote Originally Posted by dhyams View Post
    True, and I guess it's all in the individual's preferences. I very much prefer the relay because of its automatic nature. No switch to flip (having to tell people to get up and move so that I can reach in there and do something), no possibility that you kill your regulator by you (or someone else) flipping the switch to off while the boat is running.

    Normal usage scenario is to float, listen to music, and then crank and go. The relay is perfect for this; batt #1 is kept always charged nicely because it's only used for cranking only; everything else is run off of batt #2. In the low-probability
    situation where batt #1 (the cranking batt) is dead and batt #2 (house batt) is dead, just get out your wrench and ratchet and move the cables...that gets you going (just saying all is not lost if batt #1 is dead but batt #2 is not).
    In a case like this, we do a dual battery switch with an ACR. 99% of the time, the switch is in the "1" or "ON" position while on the water and "OFF" when parked. The ACR automatically combines the alternator to the house bank when the engine is running and isolates the house from the rest of the system when the engine is off.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Lake Wylie NC Area
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    747

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    allow anything from the boat side to ground with my stereo bank. This keeps the noise out.
    Unless the house bank is 100% stand-alone battery bank, then your stereo and house bank are sharing a common ground plane with the rest of the boat.

    The most common source of noise is from when the stereo is not sharing a common B+ battery source. This typically happen in a dual battery system when new gear is added or when a house bank is added, and the existing gear is left on the boats harness.

    My only real concern with this unless im not understanding what your doing it connecting the stereo to the rest of the boat
    Electrically, there is no issue here are all. Its no different then a every car or truck that runs the roads today. They all have stereos and a single battery.

    With all loads connected to the C post of the switch, the stereo is benefiting from the alternator voltage, regardless of which battery you have the switch turned to. When switched to off, the batteries are isolated from the loads in one action.

    With the stereo loads connected directly to the house battery with only a dual battery switch (no ACR) you have to run with the switch in the BOTH position, other wise, one of the batteries will not be receiving a charge from the alternator and when dropping anchor, you will still have to move the switch position from BOTH in order to isolate the main cranking from the stereo loads, where is was while running.

    This allows you to run your stereo and if it kills the battery you still have a start battery
    This also allows you to charge eighter the stereo or house battery, dependent on where your switch is selected.
    1 house
    2 stereo
    3 combines both banks as 1 big battery, also allows charging of all batteries
    Function stays the same in both schemes. When listening at anchor, switch over to "2" and the main cranking is now isolated in reserve.

    Im not saying your scheme is in any way wrong, just stating how my scheme works and how they are different and in some ways, similar.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Carlton Oregon
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    6,003

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    Quote Originally Posted by MLA View Post
    Im not saying your scheme is in any way wrong, just stating how my scheme works and how they are different and in some ways, similar.
    Exactly, i wasnt trying to say your way was wrong eigher, lol.

    Much respect for you MLA for all you do on the site man.
    Malo <--- Means--Evil or Mean One. This explains a lot.
    2013 Mojo 2.5 Skylon Tower. Bestia < Beast >
    Exile ZLD
    6 SX65M Cabins
    6 XM9 Towers
    1 XI Big 15 Woofer in a custom Fiberglass box
    1 XI 1K Harpoon
    2 XI 800.4
    1 XI 2500.1
    2 Interstate 2400U 6V Golf Cart Batterties
    Custom 1 Off Evolution Cover

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Lake Wylie NC Area
    Posts
    747

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    Quote Originally Posted by mmandley View Post
    Exactly, i wasnt trying to say your way was wrong eigher, lol.

    Much respect for you MLA for all you do on the site man.
    Hay, i know you werent, so no worries here!

  10. #20
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Portland Oregon
    Posts
    790

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    Was the perko switch just purchased? The add a battery setup from blue sea is a great way to go. I put as many accessories as I could, including stereo on my house battery. That leaves my start battery with a light load, I left the blower, nav lights, bilge pump, and interior lights on the start battery but that's it. I also added a blue sea fuse panel to the house battery to easily add accessories.
    Not that it's much help but oh we'll
    -Jake

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