Page 1 of 5 123 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 44

Thread: Buying Truck

  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Richmond, VA
    Posts
    1,807

    Default Buying Truck

    Would appreciate guidance on buying a truck.

    Located a 2012 Ram 1500 Laramie Crew Cab to replace the family’s aged 1999 Chevy Suburban tow vehicle.

    MSRP is $48,105.

    Dealer is offering a price of $37,545, mostly due to incentives at this time of year now that 2013 models are on the lot.

    There is nothing additional I need or want added to the truck and am not interested in buying any form of additional warranty coverage.

    Going to trade-in the Suburban.

    This Tuesday I make another trip to the dealer. This time it is for the specific purpose of negotiating price.

    I want to be smart about this, but am not interested in spending all day at the dealer trying to get every last nickel.

    The only data points at my disposal are the MSRP and dealer price, both of which track pretty close to pricing at four other dealers in the same general area.

    Looked at Kelly Blue Book and Edmunds.

    Is there a way to know what the dealer paid for this particular truck so I can negotiate up from that dollar amount?

    What should I keep in mind when negotiating? What should I avoid?

    Appreciate the help. Thanks!


    http://www.antiochchryslerdodgejeep....381/507540291/
    2007 Outback
    2012 RAM Crew Cab
    2015 Subaru Forester
    Stuart

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Arkansas
    Posts
    2,544

    Default

    Do they know you are wanting to trade in? If not, establish the lowest truck price before mentioning it. Work them as two separate deals on your end.

    Of course, if you want to keep as many nickles as possible, consider selling it yourself. They are likely sending it straight to auction and going to be thinking wholesale dollars for their sales price.

    As far as values, in this part of the country, dealers typically reference nada.

    Avoid any financial gimmicks. Don't be afraid to walk out, they aren't going to turn your money down the following day.

    Sent from my DROID RAZR using Tapatalk 2
    2006 Supra 24SSV

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Snellville, GA & Lake Sinclair
    Posts
    7,109

    Default

    Couldn't give better advice than KG in regards to working it as 2 independent transactions. Get the number you want on the new truck, then work to the number you want for the 'burb. Walk away at least once.

    I have also gotten great deals by working with the dealers Internet sales dept. negotiated all over email, told them to have paperwork ready to go, walked in with a check and drove away in 15 min.

    I ran a deal like that one time where the dealership didn't have my paperwork ready when I arrived. I told the salesman to get the sales manager and told them I was leaving in 15 min and had no problem doing it in my current vehicle. At 14:59, I made my way to the door and drove off. Leveraged that hiccup into 2 yrs of free service.

    Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk HD
    Drew
    New ride: 2012 Mojo
    Old ride: 2008 OBV

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Carlton Oregon
    Posts
    6,064

    Default

    Along with the advise from Wolfe and KG

    I would also call your local Tire shop like Les Schwab or something and get the price for a Front Leveling Kit installed.

    Tell them you want the truck Leveld in the front and you want a spray in bed liner added to the deal.

    You can almost always get these added and its a great way to get more in the deal without lowering the price.

    The thing is when buying anything with an Engine, you need to make the Dealer and yourself feel like your both Winners in this deal.

    This is exactly what im dealing with on my new boat purchase, i got a few lines out there and some numbers have been exchanging hands but I dont feel im getting the best price or options yet. So i have began to toss in service deals and dealer type upgrades to sweeten my deal.

    I think 36K on a 12 loaded Dodge is pretty awesome deal man. I would push for the leveling kit, bedliner.

    On your used truck look it up n Nada and see what they say the bottom trade value is for. Ask your self honestly, is your burb worth that NADA says it is? Pick a price you want realistically for your truck and thats the price you go for as a trade in. Another way is look at Auto Trader in your area and see how many simular trucks like yours are for sale and get a feel for the asking price of them.

    This gives you ammo for your trade in deal. Be realistic, be firm, and know more about the resale on your truck then the dealer.

    Lastly, being able to walk away completly is a good strategy but its like crying wolf, it only works 1 time. You walk away and they call your bluff and let you walk out, you might not find that good of a deal someplace else, and if you walk back in they know they got you and your deal wont get much sweeter. Be carefull with walking out threats is all im saying
    Malo <--- Means--Evil or Mean One. This explains a lot.
    2013 Mojo 2.5 Skylon Tower. Bestia < Beast >
    Exile ZLD
    6 SX65M Cabins
    6 XM9 Towers
    1 XI Big 15 Woofer in a custom Fiberglass box
    1 XI 1K Harpoon
    2 XI 800.4
    1 XI 2500.1
    2 Interstate 2400U 6V Golf Cart Batterties
    Custom 1 Off Evolution Cover

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Portland Oregon
    Posts
    835

    Default

    I'm curious how little they will offer on the burb. They will want it for wholesale book. I'm in the same situation with an aging burb that needs an upgrade. I'm afraid to try and trade it, thinking they'll offer me around a thousand for it.
    I like Wolf's tactics, I may try that next. I was going to call the dealer in advance and tell them 30 minutes in and out or I walk, no exceptions. I really like email and 15 minutes better!
    -Jake

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Snellville, GA & Lake Sinclair
    Posts
    7,109

    Default

    Best deal I ever got on a vehicle I did on Dec 26th. Had the place to myself and the staff. Everyone was relaxed.

    In a major metro market like Atlanta or Chicago, never be afraid to walk. If one dealer makes you a deal, another one (or three) will make the same deal. I always ask for my deal in writing and walk out first time with it in hand. If dealer #1 doesn't want to work with me when I go back, I take it to dealer #2 and they always match, or beat, that deal.

    Great advice from Mike as sometimes the better "deal" isn't just the number. Get them to throw in freebies like he mentioned or service.
    Drew
    New ride: 2012 Mojo
    Old ride: 2008 OBV

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    De Pere WI
    Posts
    4,227

    Default

    personally, on a vehicle that old, I wouldn't even bother trading it in. they are not going to give you squat for a trade. typically you can expect somewhere south of trade in if you have negotiated a decent price on the vehicle. up here, the dealers are not using nada/kbb anymore but are using auction values since the majority of trades go that direction. my experience has been that any vehicle priced under $4k moves very quickly on craigslist. yes, it does take some effort vs handing a dealer the keys, but it's also MUCH easier to walk with no trade on the table and expect a call back not to mention it doesn't muddy the water allowing the dealer to play shell games with both prices.. now if it's a more expensive car sometimes you are better off to trade as you only pay tax on the difference, but probably not in this case on a decade+ old suburban.

    if you have negotiated the best price on the rig, would you rather have $1k as a trade or 2k in your pocket and have made another family happy that needs a rig?
    '06 Supra Launch 20SSV-gone but never forgotten

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Hilliard, Ohio
    Posts
    483

    Default

    If you can use the mfg site to build the truck you want and see what other dealers in the area have it. Print out the inventory / window sticker online.
    Call and talk with the sales manager to confirm the truck is on the lot and ask him/her to fax or email you their numbers. Should have within 30 minutes. Once your have 2 or 3 prices start working the phones. I found that dealing with the sales manager you cut out the back and forth and when it comes time for the delivery they will assign their best sales person to deliver your truck.
    Not sure if Ram / Dodge has a credit union pricing deal like gm. If they do look into that.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2011
    Location
    Houston, TX
    Posts
    238

    Default

    Take your trade-in by Carmax and get an offer. This should be your trade in floor as it involves little additional effort. I would also immediately post it to Craigslist if I had title in hand. It sounds like its a secondary vehicle so you can afford to wait to sell or sell before getting the upgrade.
    2007 Mobius LSV
    Boat Pic

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Pensacola, FL
    Posts
    1,544

    Default

    Take the first offer he gives you. Take it fast, get home and tell your wife what a great deal you made.


    In the end, do your research. When you get numbers that you are happy with and they will let you walk, then be confident that you are good. No matter what you do, the dealer is still making money and someone else will always have a story of a better deal. When you are happy, that's all that matters.
    1997 MasterCraft 205

    2008 Moomba Outback
    1999 MasterCraft Sportstar OB
    1992 MasterCraft 205
    1999 Malibu Response LX
    1987 Marlin Magnum Skier

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •