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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    NC
    Posts
    55

    Default Rad-a-cage bolts

    Lost one front bolt on my rad-a-cage and was looking around for info on the size needed and after no luck online i checked in my owners manual and found the size... went to work and got these
    http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/se...eyword=382-212
    should be in tomorrow and we will see how they work out
    2008 Outback

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Keuka Lake, NY
    Posts
    5,904

    Default

    You might want ss , try fastenal or champion fasteners. I did have luck with my oval wakeboard clamp screws at home depot.
    A Day at the Lake...Priceless
    A Day in Powder...Endless


    Joe V
    2012 Möbius XLV~ Loaded & Exiled
    2007 Outback V ~ sold

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Lockport, IL/Cloverdale, MI
    Posts
    143

    Default

    I bought some spares when we got our boat as we had to lower the tower every time
    putting boat on lift (not necessary now). I think I picked up SS ones at either Home Depot
    or Menards.
    2008 Outback V

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Minnesota and Wisconsin
    Posts
    1,135

    Default

    I have always wanted wing nut tops on my rada-a-cage bolts so I could do it by hand. Never actually looked.
    If you believe something to be true, it will be - in it's consequences.
    http://bensonwdby.home.comcast.net/

    1999 Mobius - DD - 5.7L Carb - Perfect Pass

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    Location
    Tucson, Az
    Posts
    48

    Default

    It is a 3/8" 16 bolt on my rada-a-cage. One of my jobs over the winter is to replace the stripped threads in one of mine with new helicoils.
    2007 Moomba LSV

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Vancouver, WA
    Posts
    4,102

    Default

    I'd definitely go with Stainless like Joe recommended. I had to replace a few broken bolts on a board rack, was in a hurry and just used standard, maybe even grade 8. Couple years down the road now (forgot to swap them) and they are rusted in there pretty good... Luckily it's steel to aluminum contact but if I need to take the racks off at some point I will probably have to drill them out.
    Old enough to know better, young enough to do it anyway.

    2001 MobiusV

  7. #7
    Join Date
    May 2009
    Location
    Carlton Oregon
    Posts
    6,028

    Default

    I wold also advise put something like anti sieze, on something simular on the bolts. We use a ton of SS bolts at work and the worst is when they gall up a thread, they basically weld them selves in. Use a little lube or something and prevent this.
    Malo <--- Means--Evil or Mean One. This explains a lot.
    2013 Mojo 2.5 Skylon Tower. Bestia < Beast >
    Exile ZLD
    6 SX65M Cabins
    6 XM9 Towers
    1 XI Big 15 Woofer in a custom Fiberglass box
    1 XI 1K Harpoon
    2 XI 800.4
    1 XI 2500.1
    2 Interstate 2400U 6V Golf Cart Batterties
    Custom 1 Off Evolution Cover

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Durham, NC
    Posts
    641

    Default

    McMaster-Carr has everything one would ever need. I ordered my replacement bolts from there, except I got them with plastic knobs. Way better than dealing with the allen head bolts that came with mine.
    Brian Roberts
    2001 Outback DD

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Tuscaloosa, Alabama
    Posts
    736

    Default

    Mcmaster Carr is very cool
    Jack Beams
    '05 Outback DD
    325HP EFI Indmar

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Posts
    2

    Default

    I just bought some from Grainger .com. The part number is 3DFV7 and they are $8.10.

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