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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Vicksburg, MI
    Posts
    491

    Default Outback V GI to GIII Ballast Upgrade

    Over the winter I added two thru hulls, five Tsunami 800 pumps and a pair of 750's from Wakemakers to the rear of my OBV. I removed the stock Rule pump, solenoid, and strainer. I cut the scooper off my stock intake and added check valves to all three intakes. Because of our wonderful cold Michigan weather, I wasn't able to try everything out until a couple weeks ago. Everything worked as planned except for the fact that the boat was way too light up front. I had a feeling this was going to happen based on other forum user's suggestions. Because of this, I will be placing another order to Wakemakers very soon. Once I get my new IBS installed and tested, I will post pics of all my ballast and switch mods. My plan is to get it done in a couple of weeks.
    Joe

    2014 LSV
    2010 Outback V - Sold

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    14

    Default

    Joe - My order from wakemakers is due to arrive in a couple of days. Have an 07 OBV wth a G1. Keeping that as is and I am adding 2 new reversable pumps to go along with a 750 in port locker, using a 450 I already own in the starboard locker, and adding an IBS. One pump will operate starboard and IBS. I am also in Michigan and could not get to boat in stoage to do over winter. Have stereo/amp and depth finder projects as well. Looking forward to your pictures as may have info I can use.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Vicksburg, MI
    Posts
    491

    Default Re: Outback V GI to GIII Ballast Upgrade

    Mine is due tomorrow. I have been preping the boat since last Wednesday, and I plan on finishing everything by this Thursday. I need to get it done since we leave for the cottage on Friday. I plan to get pics posted by early next week. I believe you wanted to copy my switch setup. Where abouts in Michigan are you?

    Sent from my Droid Charge using Tapatalk 2
    Joe

    2014 LSV
    2010 Outback V - Sold

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    14

    Default

    I live in Grand Haven. Cottage is on Silver Lake - Hart, Mi (sand dunes). Yes this is my weekend project too. Boat delivered from storage this week and was going to post picture of current switch set up then.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Wake Forest, NC
    Posts
    113

    Default Outback V GI to GIII Ballast Upgrade

    I did gI to gIII upgrade last year, parts from wakemakers as well. I immediately knew what the first mod would be this year - new prop. Fully loaded mine struggled on the stock oj, if you guys haven't done this I would consider it. I wish I had re proped first haha
    2008 Outback V

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Vicksburg, MI
    Posts
    491

    Default Re: Outback V GI to GIII Ballast Upgrade

    What was your stock prop/pitch, and what did you end up changing to?

    Sent from my Droid Charge using Tapatalk 2
    Joe

    2014 LSV
    2010 Outback V - Sold

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Vicksburg, MI
    Posts
    491

    Default

    Started off with measuring and drilling two new holes in the bottom of the boat. I went with all 3/4" fills, drains, pumps and hoses.

    Passenger side:



    Driver side:



    Closeup view of original scupper intake:



    Closeup view of modified scupper intake:



    I used a piece of threaded rod with nuts along with a spreader bar and wood blocks placed on either side of the scupper to remove it for modifications.
    Joe

    2014 LSV
    2010 Outback V - Sold

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Vicksburg, MI
    Posts
    491

    Default

    Besides cutting the scupper of the stock intake, I also shortened it:



    The stock intake was way to long for my liking. I wanted the new pump to be as low in the boat as possible. As you can see in the pic, the thread for the flange nut ends just above it, and the tapered 3/4" pipe thread starts there. I used a bench grinder to grind down the O.D. to the required diameter needed for the pipe thread. I then cut new pipe threads with a pipe threading die. I also ran a drill up the center to open up the I.D. and clean up the casting.

    Here are the three new Tsnumai 800 aerator pumps:



    Passenger side drain pump hidden behind the wall of the engine compartment:



    Driver side drain pump hidden behind the wall of the engine compartment:

    Last edited by jstenger; 05-27-2013 at 02:22 PM.
    Joe

    2014 LSV
    2010 Outback V - Sold

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Vicksburg, MI
    Posts
    491

    Default

    I was worried about kinking the fill and vent hoses. To prevent it, I made an oval hole right next to the small carpeted cover at the front of each locker and just below the aluminum angle that goes front to back. I routered the edges so that the hoses would not get damaged.

    Passenger side:



    Driver side:



    Here is the passenger side 750# bag completely full:



    Driver side:



    I was really happy with the way the 750's filled the lockers in my OBV.
    Joe

    2014 LSV
    2010 Outback V - Sold

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Vicksburg, MI
    Posts
    491

    Default

    I didn't want to cut any more holes, so I used the existing switch panel for my ballast switches. I removed the "COURTESY" and "DOCKING LIGHT" switches to make room for the two other ballast switches. I moved the "STEREO" switch over to the spot where the "COURTESY" switch was.





    I moved the courtesy lights and docking lights over to the "NAV/ANC" switch. To get it to work like I wanted, I had to rewire the "NAV/ANC" switch. In its original configuration, pushing the top of the switch would turn on all the lights, and pushing the bottom of the switch would just turn the anchor light on. There is a diode on the back of the switch that controls this. Diodes are like one way check valves for electricity. First thing I did was flip the diode 180 degrees. I then wired the docking lights to the top side of the switch. The navigational, dash, anchor, and courtesy lights are all wired to the bottom side of the switch. I made a short pigtale so that I could reuse all the factory connectors. Now, pushing the top of the switch turns on all the lights except the docking lights, and pushing the bottom of the switch turns on all the lights. Wiring the switch like this keeps everything legal for night time boating.
    Joe

    2014 LSV
    2010 Outback V - Sold

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