LED Light Project

[KG's Supra24]

Pretty much correct. We went ahead and added what I'd call door jam switches but they definitely weren't necessary. We put them on lights in the cubby's that way they weren't on when the cubby wasn't open.

These .... http://www.parts-express.com/pe/show...ource=googleps

[parrothd]

We used the prewired super flux. Just spliced the factory wire and put these in its place.

http://www.oznium.com/prewired-superflux

Some pics from ours that got archived



"I've had a few PM's from people asking about the LED's and what all we did, so I figured I would just post my process. Everything is powered by the factory courtesy light wiring, off of that switch, even what we added. For above the cup-holders, the Supras already had a small 3 LED unit above them, I removed this and just replaced with flexible strip. Wired directly in place of the old. Same for rear lockers, behind the driver seat locker, and the rear transom light. The only change to the wiring for the lockers was the ground wire was ran to the switch, and another ground from the switch back to the LED so when closed, the ground was interrupted and they shut off. "

I used the same LEDs, plus the spots LEDs. For my setup a added a new circuit and switch so I could still have the courtesy lights. It was a fun project but we only used the LED's 2 or 3 times. One of those times was while the boat was in the back yard..

[bergermaister]

I copied KG and Dusty on some of their stuff - I did not use interrupt switches on the compartments though, they're always on but you can't really tell unless you open them. LEDs draw so little I wasn't worried about it. Glovebox gives a faint glow under the lid but no biggie.

I've had some of the SMD strips off eBay fail before I even installed, and noticed one string is half dead now or at least a loose connection I need to fix. Can't expect too much for how cheap they were. All mine are also off a spare acc switch.

If I go transom spots/floods I will run those to a separate switch. Also if I do anything on the tower I'll go to a separate switch so I don't get busted with blues up there impersonating the popo or something stupid. Plus I'm starting to like the idea of different switches for different zones, but that adds to the wiring required.

If you don't have a good spot for strips, these little guys are bright and pretty rugged if you can find a spot for them. About 1" long, 1/2" tall or less. They can be almost too bright if mounted up high though.

http://www.superbrightleds.com/morei...ght-module/23/



These are nice to project out or down too.