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Thread: Buffer newb

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Tallahassee, FL
    Posts
    11,348

    Default

    On a car body or a hull, every time there is a ridge between two planes (like the top of a fender) the paint or gelcoat will be a little thinner. On a car you can burn through in a matter of seconds. Not quite as easy to cause damage on a boat hull but you should still be careful.
    My Mom said I'm not allowed to get wet!
    2008 LSV
    2000 Outback LS (sold)
    Exile Tunes
    PWI
    LLTR!!!!!!!!



  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Nashville, TN
    Posts
    205

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    oh gotcha! thanks

    Quote Originally Posted by kaneboats View Post
    On a car body or a hull, every time there is a ridge between two planes (like the top of a fender) the paint or gelcoat will be a little thinner. On a car you can burn through in a matter of seconds. Not quite as easy to cause damage on a boat hull but you should still be careful.
    1998 Outback

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Raleigh, NC
    Posts
    295

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    Another question, what wax are you guys using with the orbital buffers?
    Jeff

    2012 Outback V

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Portland Oregon
    Posts
    825

    Default Buffer newb





    I used meguiars forever. I learned from a friend of Barry's who had an endless supply that he shared with me. However side by side the 3m works easier and faster with less residue. Only been using it for two years but really like it for the boat.
    -Jake

  5. #15
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Durham, NC
    Posts
    641

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    Mequiars also makes a "Color Restorer" that fits in the lineup after the oxidation remover and the high gloss polish, that is supposed to help with the dried out faded gelcoat. It seems that the gelcoat needs to be kept "hydrated" for lack of a better word. I just did my boat with Mequiars Quick Wax, and the faded parts of my red hull are almost gone. Now I am sure they will return, but I was surprised how well that spray wax worked, and it was easy to work with too!
    Brian Roberts
    2001 Outback DD

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Location
    Western PA
    Posts
    53

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    I apply the wax by hand, and use the random orbital to remove 90% when it dries, continuously moving and switching to clean bonnets, then go back over by hand to remove the cracks and crevices. Saves a lot of time and energy doing it this way vs 100% by hand. Not doing the restore or faded gel coat recovery that others are talking about here though.

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Snellville, GA & Lake Sinclair
    Posts
    7,082

    Default Buffer newb

    Drew
    New ride: 2012 Mojo
    Old ride: 2008 OBV

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Charlotte, nc
    Posts
    114

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    suggestions on buffer use with a large decal (i have the splatter graphics)?
    2014 SC350
    2012 LSV - sold

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Portland Oregon
    Posts
    825

    Default Buffer newb

    Quote Originally Posted by freshturk View Post
    suggestions on buffer use with a large decal (i have the splatter graphics)?
    I never had any issues with vinyl and my buffers. I buff over them to clean up streaks that the pole guides leave from trailering.
    -Jake

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