Page 1 of 3 123 LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 26
  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    Uniontown, oh
    Posts
    79

    Default Water leak thru prop shaft

    I'm getting a steady trickle of water comming between the prob shaft and brass fitting before the hose clamps. Is there a seal that can go bad? What's the fix like? It's enough of a leak to kick the bilge on after a while.
    Nick

    2005 Moomba outback

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Pensacola, FL
    Posts
    1,544

    Default

    Based on your options: you can re-pack the seal in there. It's fairly easy after you remove the cowling and the rear panel. You could just tighten up the adjusting nuts and see if that reduces/stops your leak. Lastly, you could convert it to a dripless.

    While I have been able to repack them and have no leak at all, the manual states that is will leak a few drops per minute.

    When I flew the Navy's E-6B, the engines were "allowed" to leak "up to" 30 drops per minute and still be "good". I only saw them leak once and it was in a "greater than 30" flow.
    In helicopters: if it ain't leaking, it must be out of fluid.
    1997 MasterCraft 205

    2008 Moomba Outback
    1999 MasterCraft Sportstar OB
    1992 MasterCraft 205
    1999 Malibu Response LX
    1987 Marlin Magnum Skier

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Irondequoit Bay, NY
    Posts
    1,301

    Default

    any cons to a dripless? i think i might pick up a dripless drive seal
    2004 Outback Blue/white w/5.7 indmar 350, Direct Drive
    Rockford fasgate cabins
    Rockford fasgate 500w amp (cabin) and a kenwood HU (kmr700u)
    Exile XM7's
    Exile Harpoon
    Exile ZLD
    Polk 10in sub (2)
    Polk P330 amp (subs)

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Cumming Ga
    Posts
    314

    Default Water leak thru prop shaft

    Yea there is a draw back with having a dripless shaft seal. I personally had to change mine because they wear out just like any other seal. They are more complicated and in my opinion unnecessary. The biggest issue is when they go, they go. So you could be on the lake and fill up pretty quick with water with no way to empty it out. With the rope type seal you can generally tighten the nut a little in case of an emergency.

    Also the dripless still drips. Well at least mine does. So if you want a totally dry bilge your out o luck either way.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Tigard, Oregon
    Posts
    3,016

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Ironcross25 View Post
    I'm getting a steady trickle of water comming between the prob shaft and brass fitting before the hose clamps. Is there a seal that can go bad? What's the fix like? It's enough of a leak to kick the bilge on after a while.
    It's supposed to drip a little, that's what keeps the packing rope lubricated. After a while, the rope needs to be replaced. Below is the replacement procedure. It's not hard and is much cheaper than going dripless.

    http://www.moomba.com/msgboard/showt...+seal+cab13367
    Al

    2006 Mobius LSV

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Vancouver, WA
    Posts
    4,251

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by chadjitsu1 View Post
    Yea there is a draw back with having a dripless shaft seal. I personally had to change mine because they wear out just like any other seal.
    How many hours do you think you got out of it before having to change it?
    Old enough to know better, young enough to do it anyway.

    2001 MobiusV

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    London Ontario Canada
    Posts
    1,862

    Default

    The dripless does not drip if its installed correctly and your alignment is within tolerances. So yes , why not have a dry bilge?
    09 21v LAUNCH

    run your engine after you change your oil
    68 th Member. WS420,HSE Revolution, OJ 466, Acme1157,1100 sacs,Kicker HLCD's n IX500.4, Supra Coolies
    Doug

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Cumming Ga
    Posts
    314

    Default

    The boat has about 550 hours on it and I would assume that the shaft seal has never been changed before. That is a long time and I understand that its a wear item but the worst part for me was the fact that it really went all at once. I noticed that my bilge was running a lot so I just happened to take a look and there was a lot of water in there and the shaft seal was dumping in a steady stream of water.

    I had Atlanta marine install the new seal but it still leaks a little. I noticed it dripping the other day a little. I would also expect it to hold up to the name of "dripless" but it still leaks. I drive from Atlanta to the SC factory to pick it up so its a factory part literally. I just don't feel like paying another 750+ dollars to have it replaced again.

    If I were to order a new boat from the factory I would not buy a dripless seal is all I'm getting at. Everyone has their own opinion on the issue but mine is keep it simple, who cares if you have a little water in the bilge. More then likely you will have a little water in there from people getting in and out of the boat, from life jackets and wet suits holding water, and from the rain that makes it through the cover.

    Quote Originally Posted by bergermaister View Post
    How many hours do you think you got out of it before having to change it?

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Cumming Ga
    Posts
    314

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DOCDRS View Post
    The dripless does not drip if its installed correctly and your alignment is within tolerances. So yes , why not have a dry bilge?
    I would think that they got it aligned correctly but I really have no way of telling. That's why I paid a ton for them to do it but who knows what they actually did. I personally don't have any feeler gauges to check alignment, maybe I should buy some and take the bolts out to see what it looks like. It may be off. I don't want to totally crap on the dripless idea, and I know a lot of boats have them, even really big boats. I just had a bad experience, I like the idea of just tightening a nut a half turn every few years and knowing I'm good to go. Also if it fails I like not having to tare off the V-Drive and all that stuff. Dripless is just really easy.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Katy, TX
    Posts
    4,234

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by chadjitsu1 View Post
    The boat has about 550 hours on it and I would assume that the shaft seal has never been changed before. That is a long time and I understand that its a wear item but the worst part for me was the fact that it really went all at once. I noticed that my bilge was running a lot so I just happened to take a look and there was a lot of water in there and the shaft seal was dumping in a steady stream of water.

    I had Atlanta marine install the new seal but it still leaks a little. I noticed it dripping the other day a little. I would also expect it to hold up to the name of "dripless" but it still leaks. I drive from Atlanta to the SC factory to pick it up so its a factory part literally. I just don't feel like paying another 750+ dollars to have it replaced again.

    If I were to order a new boat from the factory I would not buy a dripless seal is all I'm getting at. Everyone has their own opinion on the issue but mine is keep it simple, who cares if you have a little water in the bilge. More then likely you will have a little water in there from people getting in and out of the boat, from life jackets and wet suits holding water, and from the rain that makes it through the cover.
    this really costs $750 bucks to get done???? i had a motor mount replaced for cheaper than that!!
    David

    2008 Mobius LSV, Gravity III , Wake Plate, Z5, Exile SX65c's, Exile XM9s, Exile XI12D, Exile Harpoon, Exile SM600.1 , Exile Xi800.4.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •