Coming from a 305 I/O that required pumping oil out the dipstick tube so forgive the ignorance...
Went to change the oil in my 2000 Outback LS tonight and before even looking, I grabbed the oil sucker. I pumped out into a clear 1/2 gallon container which of course wasn't big enough. It filled it once and I drained it, came back to pump more and only about another quart came out until it was sucking air. I checked the oil before I began and it was in the safe zone on the stick. I also ran it on the fake-a-lake to warm the oil up. I decided I would try to take the plug out of the pan and put a thin catch pan under it and that's when I realized it has a remote drain line! I was wondering what that hose was end of last year when I bought the boat, never traced it backwards. Question is, after taking the cap off the end of the remote line and sticking it through the bilge drain to an awaiting pan, is there a valve on the elbow near the oil pan that needs to be opened before anything will flow? It has a 1/4" allen head setscrew in it but it's TIGHT - read, zero movement. I was expecting about 2 more quarts out of the motor and when I was routing the remote hose through the bilge, no oil was attempting to come out. Any thoughts?
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Thread: Oil Change Question
05-30-2013, 10:44 PM #1
Oil Change Question
05-30-2013, 11:00 PM #2
Sure. Start dumping oil in the valve cover and see if anything comes out. Far as I recall there is just a plug in the end of the hose; that's all. Also, is the boat level? Er, not the boat, but the engine. It's supposed to sit level when the boat is floating so that doesn't mean the engine is level when the trailer is level. Check on it and let us know what you find out.My Mom said I'm not allowed to get wet!
2000 Outback LS (sold)
05-31-2013, 08:47 AM #3Senior Member
- Join Date
- Jan 2008
- Pensacola, FL
It's just the plug on the end of the hose. Pretty simple. When stowed, that cap should have a clip on it that can be placed higher than the oil level.
Mine came clipped onto the back of the motor at the valve cover level.1997 MasterCraft 205
2008 Moomba Outback
1999 MasterCraft Sportstar OB
1992 MasterCraft 205
1999 Malibu Response LX
1987 Marlin Magnum Skier
05-31-2013, 09:21 AM #4
How long did you run the boat to get the oil warm? It needs to be run for quite a while to get warmed up. Also, It seems that if the hose on the fake-a-lake is turned on too much, it will take longer to warm up.Brian Roberts
2001 Outback DD
05-31-2013, 10:14 AM #5
I ran it about 10-12 minutes. The oil being pumped out using the 'sucky' pump (appropriate nickname for it now since it drooled oil on my carpet as it was leaving the boat) was free flowing and warm, but not hot.
I have the waterline level, however, this will never make the engine level. I could lower the tongue to get the engine closer to level but by the looks of the oil pan, the drain is in the lowest point even with the motor tilt. I'll have to pour some oil back in it and see if it comes out the hose tonight. I was just concerned that I didn't get 4-5 quarts out. When I do put oil back in I will be measuring closely. Worst case is I refill tonight and run this weekend and do another oil change next week. Oil is cheaper than metal!
Oh and for what it's worth, I got the oil out of the carpet and the sucky pump is in the trash now. RIP2000 Outback LS
310 Carb Direct Drive
Too many hours restoring exterior from prior negligence to count!
05-31-2013, 10:21 AM #6
Well, I used the drain line once and went over to the sucky pump and haven't gone back. On the Outback it came out of that line so slowly I went through a twelver waiting for it to finish. I can pump out through the dipstick in 5 min. so I still use it on the LSV which is much harder to drain.My Mom said I'm not allowed to get wet!
2000 Outback LS (sold)