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  1. #1
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Location
    Raleigh, NC
    Posts
    38

    Default Slalom Tips, Tuning and Tech

    Slalom Freaks! I hope you don't mind me jumping into this forum. On the SC Supra site there is only wakeboarding / skating info and I tried to get a few of us on the Supra forum to talk slalom ski stuff but there just wasn't enough interest.

    As all of us are constantly striving to improve, I was hoping to have input on various topics such as tuning settings, binding set up, and overall body position tips.

    __________________________________________________ __________________

    I've been fortunate to have some great coaching here in NC, but there are just some things ( bad habits ) that are hard to break and wondered if others had some creative ideas on how they corrected them.

    During each coaching session I keep hearing that I'm leaning too far back on the ski, especially during the initiation of a turn ( which I think just puts on the brake and creates too much slack in the rope ). The problem is where others seems to drop the hip and 'fall' into a turn position rotating the ski on its edge.
    Since I was little I was used to carving a turn out with my back heel and that's how I turned but its quickly becoming a mental block on how to correct. Anyone else have this occur and how did you correct it. I've also tried moving my bindings forward as far as they can go.

    Thanks!
    JY
    Apex, NC

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Tallahassee, FL
    Posts
    11,347

    Default

    Welcome aboard! Lots of slalom help here. Fun too.
    My Mom said I'm not allowed to get wet!
    2008 LSV
    2000 Outback LS (sold)
    Exile Tunes
    PWI
    LLTR!!!!!!!!



  3. #3
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Pensacola, FL
    Posts
    1,544

    Default

    It might help to know what speed, line length, and ski you are on.

    However, the basic position is stacked with equal balance on both feet. To start, I would ensure that your bindings are set up correctly with the recommended position from the manufacturer. You should be able to find that on the net. That also includes your fin position and wing angle (if you have one).

    After the second wake crossing, you will begin the edge change and move forward on the ski, that will help slow you down. Check Ball of Spray and youtube videos for couterrotation help.

    In the end, it takes practice to get proper form. You also need someone watching or videoing to know what you are doing, what you are doing wrong, and if you are fixing any of it.
    1997 MasterCraft 205

    2008 Moomba Outback
    1999 MasterCraft Sportstar OB
    1992 MasterCraft 205
    1999 Malibu Response LX
    1987 Marlin Magnum Skier

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Calgary Alta Canada
    Posts
    887

    Default

    I would definetely go with the video idea if its at all possible. People can talk and preach this and that ideas but for some a visual explanation will do wonders. I'm like that in that i had and still have many issues,but after seeing some simple footage and then having something explained to me it was an instant wakeup call.

    There are many things ,that may or may not be right,sometimes its just a matter of having it explained the right way. Thats one of the differences between a good teacher and a great teacher, and now i'm not just talking Waterskiing.

    I had some instruction and after a quick review it was a simple problem to fix. Then on to the other 99 issues..haha

    If you can try it it may help. i also agree that skis should be left alone UNLESS you really know what you are doing, then everything is very slight adjustments, Thats what the pros do yet many ski barebone stock skis as well. Nate Smith is a prime example. Uses a stock ski basically right out of the box...Yet it works for him. HMMMM???
    07 Outback DD

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Minnesota and Wisconsin
    Posts
    1,138

    Default

    Move the bindings back to neutral. I have actually head that moving them one hole back may actually help. Does not make a lot of sense but might be interesting. I just spent a week with a coach (fourth year now) and we spent lots of time on just that problem. There are lots of things that you can try. 1. Do not turn with a stiff front leg. 2. Keep the weight on the balls of your feet. 3. Shift your weight forward by moving your hips forward vs. crouching and using your shoulders to 'get over the front'. 4. Keep your head up - don't start the turn with your head and shoulders. 5. Don't release your outside hand too soon. 5. Reach forward and in and up a bit so your ski can turn by itself under the rope. 6. Don't rush your turn - avoid turning into slack (definition of slack varies) - let the ski finish 7. Increase your knee bend as you approach the first wake.
    Video is a good idea.
    Try Andy Mapple's second Ski Paradise video. It has good instruction based on analyzing amatures at slower speeds and longer ropes instead of how to ski 39 off.
    The biggest mistake I make is turning to frequently - making 8-9 turns in the length of a normal slalom course.

    Spend as much time as you can with a coach.
    Relax and have fun.
    If you believe something to be true, it will be - in it's consequences.
    http://bensonwdby.home.comcast.net/

    2009 MasterCraft ProStar 197 - DD - 5.7L - 325HP - Zero Off

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Durham, NC
    Posts
    641

    Default

    John,

    These guys are all better skiers than me, so I trust their advice. I have found that I have to consciously focus on shifting more weight on my front foot. It is working okay on my onside turns, but the offside are still sketchy.
    Brian Roberts
    2001 Outback DD

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Minnesota and Wisconsin
    Posts
    1,138

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    Completely agree with consious effort on front foot. What I have found is that if you just "think' you are doing something you probably are not doing enough. If you try to exaggerate the movement - it is probably closer to what you really want - then you can feel it. I have recently found that I need to make myself feel like I am forcing my front foot into the water in order to approximate what I think I should be doing. Still not all that pleased with the results - but better than a couple weeks ago.

    The biggest problem with slalom is that a bad wake crossing is probably the result of a bad turn, which is probably the result of bad body position in the preturn - which is proably the result of a bad wake crossing - or maybe releasing too early - or changing your edge too early (kind of go together) - or standing up at the wake, which is proably the result of ....

    It seems to be all about rythym - which starts with a good pull out and a good turn into the gate - which , btw, you should not be worrying about initially (making the gate)
    If you believe something to be true, it will be - in it's consequences.
    http://bensonwdby.home.comcast.net/

    2009 MasterCraft ProStar 197 - DD - 5.7L - 325HP - Zero Off

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Pensacola, FL
    Posts
    1,544

    Default

    It would also be helpful to know if you are running the course or just free skiing.
    1997 MasterCraft 205

    2008 Moomba Outback
    1999 MasterCraft Sportstar OB
    1992 MasterCraft 205
    1999 Malibu Response LX
    1987 Marlin Magnum Skier

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Minnesota and Wisconsin
    Posts
    1,138

    Default

    Something that might help. My coach has us do an open water drill that pretty much takes the turn out of the equation. If you are currently skiing one-handed and are trying to cross-and-turn as quickly as you can - this is going to feel very strange. The goal is to try to help you develop angle - a good lean away from the boat between the whitewaters - and concious practice of weight on front and progressive knee bend.
    The drill is simple.
    Start on the left outer edge of whitewater.
    Bend your front knee - but don't squat.
    Start your pullout with your hip - NOT your head and shoulders. Starting a move with my head is a huge problem.
    The pull out needs to be quick so you are not hangin on that outside edge all the way to the apex.
    You want to generate your outbound momentumm quickly - and then coast.
    Once you get wide enough to break free of the boat get your weight up on the ball of the front foot and DON'T turn - just glide.
    When the rope re-tensions - make your turn to the "gate" - you can actually do this two handed - one-handed in this drill does not make much sense.
    DO NOT start your turn with your head and shoulders - Keep your head up and look at the back of the boat, not across the wake.
    Do Start your turn with your knees and your hips moving them in the direction you want to go - forward and inward.
    Gradually increase your knee bend (keeping hips forward/up) throught the wake.
    When you get to where you think you want to start your turn - don't - just get more vertical - make sure your weight is on the balls of your feet with more on the front, knees bent.
    Repeat the 'gate approach' from the right.
    If you believe something to be true, it will be - in it's consequences.
    http://bensonwdby.home.comcast.net/

    2009 MasterCraft ProStar 197 - DD - 5.7L - 325HP - Zero Off

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Minnesota and Wisconsin
    Posts
    1,138

    Default

    About the eyes/head/shoulders

    For me one of the things that makes a huge difference is where I am looking.
    In the pre-turn I typically like to be looking straight ahead
    As I start the turn will try to look at the back of the boat - more in the boat than the transom.
    I try to aviod looking at the ball - no always easy.
    Don't look at your ski or the wakes - that will move your shoulders into the wrong position.

    Don't start your turn with your head/shoulders. This actually will drive your hip in the opposite direction you want and will definitely transfer weight to the back of the ski- even if you are not actually leaning back over the ski.
    If you believe something to be true, it will be - in it's consequences.
    http://bensonwdby.home.comcast.net/

    2009 MasterCraft ProStar 197 - DD - 5.7L - 325HP - Zero Off

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