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Thread: Auto detailing

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
    Location
    Youngstown, OH
    Posts
    94

    Default Auto detailing

    Ever since I bought my boat in late 2011 I've increasingly became interested in detailing and within the last 6mos have really started taking it seriously and quit using the average big box store brands and invested in some (way too much) quality product. With all of that said I'm always interested to see what others are using/have used and what theyve had luck with.

    Some of the products I'm currently using
    -Detailer's pro car shampoo (not overly impressed, will try something else when its gone)
    -Poor boy's bug squash (not overly impressed, will try something else when its gone)
    -Wolfgang tire and wheel cleaner (awesome stuff, safe on all types of wheels/tires, bit expensive)
    -Detailer's pro clay and clay lubricant (clay is a bit stiff for my taste, lube was simply part of a sale, will use just a quicker detailer when its gone)
    -Klasse paint sealant (awesome stuff, less than 2oz for entire vehicle, lasts 8-10mos, easy on/off)
    -Chemical guys liquid butter wax (awesome stuff, even easier on/off than the sealant above, well priced)
    -Wolfgang instant spritz detailer(nice stuff but overpriced)
    -Chemical guys extreme slick quick detailer(really nice, can be had for half the cost of wolfgangs)
    -Chemical guys v36 medium grade polish (have only used it once as a 1 step DA polish, seems nice)
    -Chemical guys leather cleaner (like all chemical guys products, well priced and works well, goes a long way)
    -Chemical guys leather conditioner (best leather conditioner ive used so far)
    -Chemical guys metal polish (first metal polish ive used that took minimal effort, nice stuff)
    -Detailers pro wheel glaze (one of my favorite products, easy on/off, holds up really well. Wheels can simply be wiped down, zero brake dust accumulation)
    -Wolfgang rubber trim sealant (expensive like all wolfgang products, but really makes trim pop however doesnt last through washes, needs repeated with every wash)
    -Griots garage DA 6in polisher (great price however this is the only DA ive used so i dont have anything to compare)
    -Detailers pro pad cleaner (works as advertised)
    -Cobra waffle weave drying cloths ( a must have)

    To summarize a bit after quite a bit of research both on the internet and in my garage, i really havnt found a chemical guys product i disliked and for the price you really cant beat it.

    Heres my most recent project
    2012 ford escape limited with moderate paint imperfections (swirls, light scratches)
    wash>dry>clay>1 step cut/polish with DA>wax>detail. Rims were metal polished and then glazed.

    The 1step polish removed 90% of imperfections with some heavier scratches requiring a 3 stage cut/polish or a mild wetsand. The paint will really melt out in the direct sun for pictures but i finished too late.
    escape1.jpgescape3.jpgescape4.jpgescape5.jpgescape6.jpg
    2012 LSV - Wetsounds rev8 (4) - Wetsounds xs-65i (4) - JL 10W0v3 - Wetsounds SD2 - Wetsounds HT1 - Kicker dx300.2 - Wetsounds ws420

  2. #2
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    130

    Default

    I have found any onestep product isnt as productive as multi steps. Which it makes sense if you think about it. I'm assuming you have different levels of foam pads for your da. I would experiment with them and different compounds. I use Maguires and have on hand heavy, medium and fine compounds. I use those and follow it up with ultra polish. I love that stuff. if its a dark finish I'll then use swirl remove them wax. It's not uncommon to go around a vehicle 5 times. I use a Cyclo buffer. There expensive but worth it. I'm currently working on my blank 72 Chev Cheyenne.

    Another tip is making of your plastic trim. It makes clean up a bunch faster and you don't fight the white wax residue
    Last edited by cornrickey; 06-30-2013 at 03:28 AM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    130

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cornrickey View Post
    I have found any onestep product isnt as productive as multi steps. Which it makes sense if you think about it. I'm assuming you have different levels of foam pads for your da. I would experiment with them and different compounds. I use Maguires and have on hand heavy, medium and fine compounds. I use those and follow it up with ultra polish. I love that stuff. if its a dark finish I'll then use swirl remove them wax. It's not uncommon to go around a vehicle 5 times. I use a Cyclo buffer. There expensive but worth it. I'm currently working on my blank 72 Chev Cheyenne.



    Another tip is making of your plastic trim. It makes clean up a bunch faster and you don't fight the white wax residue
    That's suppose to say "masking" of your plastic trim

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jun 2007
    Location
    Vancouver, WA
    Posts
    3,792

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cornrickey View Post
    I'm currently working on my blank 72 Chev Cheyenne.
    This I would like to see.

    Used to have a 69 myself, longbed, lowrider, built eng, OD tranny, tilt wheel, etc. etc. Miss that old truck...




    Old enough to know better, young enough to do it anyway.

    2001 MobiusV

  5. #5
    Join Date
    May 2013
    Posts
    130

    Default

    Im at the lake now so I'll get you some next week. It's been redone with drop spindles old school cragers and new trim in black instead of the wood grain. 454, turbo 400 with a Gear Vendor. I've had it for 5 years. this week was the first time if worked on the paint. It's the nicest black paint if worked on top start with so I've held off for a long time. No clear coat. it's so much more fun to work on than clear coat.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Des Moines, IA
    Posts
    2,527

    Default

    If you haven't tried Optimum No Rinse (new wash and wax formulation) you gotta try it out. It works great and even though I use it for wash, clay lube, QD, etc the bottle of concentrate lasts a really long time.

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