We are getting way off base.
Actually most of MikeM's comments on this subject are very accurate.
You are not going to burn up an alternator at idle. It just does not put out enough current at idle to make much of a contribution. If the RPMs are very low the alternator can't produce enough to get over-worked regardless of what the regulation would be.
The real danger to the alternator is when simultanously a large stereo is being played hard plus the batteries are in a deeply discharged state and the alternator is seriously loaded down at RPM. The 20 or so amps of the additional boat operations when underway are another draw that is piled on.
If you gave the alternator a break by placing the stereo in the limp or off mode while the deeply cycled batteries are getting a recharge, you could avoid the excess stress. Although many boaters don't want to run with their big audio system shut down....ever.
Running the batteries (even deep cycle batteries) below 12.0 volts is particularly bad for the batteries AND for the alternator.
Alernator current ratings are for a short term duty cycle and at higher RPMs.
It is pointless, and actually counter-productive, to have more depleted battery capacity than your charging system can effectively service....whether by the alternator, shore charger, or combination based on your individual scheme and usage.
Another valid reason for running all Class D amplification.
Results 21 to 30 of 33
07-28-2013, 07:02 PM #21
07-28-2013, 11:52 PM #22
That's one thing I do like is the javelin. That little amp works its tail off And hasn't had any problems. Class d's are the way to go2002 moomba möbius lsv
2 30.2 amplifiers
08-08-2013, 11:33 PM #23
Alternator took a dump last night-Jake
08-09-2013, 10:36 PM #24
08-09-2013, 11:50 PM #25
08-10-2013, 01:20 PM #26
Is it the alternator pigtail adapter that you need? Not sure of your question but this Painless P/N 30706 or Painless P/N 30707 is what we use on our carsSent by the random thoughts from the voices in my head...
08-10-2013, 02:07 PM #27
Alternator took a dump last night
I think he is running two 6v over two 12v. After dealing with 6v in my RV (new RV owner and had never had experience with it) I will run 6v on my next boat build for my house needs.
Rather than me dumbing it up, here is a link with some useful info.
08-10-2013, 03:42 PM #28
So it seems to come down to amp hours available and being able to fully discharge the batteries without limiting their service life.
Came across another article about 6V Golf Cart battery specs, which is summed up below. I only copied the 25 amp draw which seems more useful than the higher amp draw specs;
T-105, 447 Min
T-125, 488 Min
T-145, 530 Min
E3600, 390 Min
GC-5, 480 Min
GC2-H, 525 Min
NAPA 8144 (mfg. by Exide - equivalent to Exide 3600) 390 Min
NAPA 8146 (mfg. by Exide - equivalent to Exide GC-5) 480 Min
SORRY about taking this thread off topic!!Sent by the random thoughts from the voices in my head...
08-10-2013, 04:57 PM #29
Alternator took a dump last night
I had to replace the 6v batteries in my dads RV this year (which I purchased after his passing). The battery guy asked if they were from '11 or '01 from looking at the year stamp, they were obviously the originals from '01. My dad never maintained them, they would go winters hooked up without a charger or any use, often 6 months, and lasted 12 years!
Last edited by beat taco; 08-10-2013 at 05:00 PM.-Jake
08-11-2013, 07:58 AM #30Senior Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2006
- Tuscaloosa, Alabama
I was told that an alternator is designed to keep a charged battery charged. They are not designed to charge a dead battery.Jack Beams
'05 Outback DD
325HP EFI Indmar