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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    160

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    I know what you are dealing with. I got my first wakeboat with the four tower speaker "upgrade". I assumed that the tower speakers were good for wakeboarding.

    I would nearly deafen the enitre boat trying to hear the speakers on the line.

    It has only been recently that HLCD speakers became the "norm" on wakeboats. They project the music much farther.

    They will also deafen people on the boat, so I am trying to figure out how to mount a set in my v-drive lockers. This winter I will attempt to modify my rear sun pads so the back foot or so hinges up with an actuator. The speakers will mount to the bottom of this section of sun pad.

    I will have the speakers out and on only when wakeboarding. I will mount two coaxial tower speakers for surfing or chillin in the cove.

    I plan to have the remote wire for the amp on a dash switch that will also energize the actuators so when the rider is on the line, one switch will raise the speakers and turn on the amp, and when they fall, turning the switch off wil lower the speakers and kill the amps power.
    Nate

    2008 XLV GG (sold)
    2013 LSV

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Dickinson, ND
    Posts
    132

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    Quote Originally Posted by NateHaskovec View Post
    I know what you are dealing with. I got my first wakeboat with the four tower speaker "upgrade". I assumed that the tower speakers were good for wakeboarding.

    I would nearly deafen the enitre boat trying to hear the speakers on the line.

    It has only been recently that HLCD speakers became the "norm" on wakeboats. They project the music much farther.

    They will also deafen people on the boat, so I am trying to figure out how to mount a set in my v-drive lockers. This winter I will attempt to modify my rear sun pads so the back foot or so hinges up with an actuator. The speakers will mount to the bottom of this section of sun pad.

    I will have the speakers out and on only when wakeboarding. I will mount two coaxial tower speakers for surfing or chillin in the cove.

    I plan to have the remote wire for the amp on a dash switch that will also energize the actuators so when the rider is on the line, one switch will raise the speakers and turn on the amp, and when they fall, turning the switch off wil lower the speakers and kill the amps power.
    might as well just trade in your boat for one of these, very very nice boats for wakeboarding!!

    http://epicboats.com/p-8289-23v-anniversary.html
    07 Gravity Games Edition XLV
    -EXiled Out System Amps,Sub,Speakers,etc.. Gravity III Ballast, Blue Leds Throughtout boat, still more to come!

    02 Moomba LSV "SOLD"

    Tow Rig-12' F150 Ecoboost-leveled/intake

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Lake Wylie NC Area
    Posts
    781

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    Quote Originally Posted by uniwarking View Post
    I have to correct my first post... Sadly... Which might be part of why the sound system is less than impressive. The tower amp is not a KXM 400.2 but rather a DX 300.2. RMS is 75w at 4 ohms so they match the speaker ratings. Pretty sad it's not even a marine amp The cabin amp is a DX 200.4... Not sure what the 6 cabin speakers are rated at but I'm assuming they're likely underpowered as well.

    Guess ill be looking at new stuff during the off season...

    Thanks for all of the tips by the way. I've done some toying with the HU EQ and other settings. I'd still like to adjust the gain on the amps a bit to see if they're set properly... We've just been spending all of our time enjoying the boat... Can't exactly toy with settings with a bunch of people on the boat.
    The only adjustment to make in the head-unit is to turn the "Loud" off and set the EQ to flat and 0 bass and 0 treble. The other important settings are on the amp. The X-over filter needs to be on "hi-pass" and the x-over freq set to 100 Hz, with is the 3rd hash mark. To ball-park the gain, set it to about the 11 oclock position.

    Other then that, you've got the wrong type of speakers for projecting to wake-board range.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Aug 2012
    Posts
    160

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by powerstroke99 View Post
    might as well just trade in your boat for one of these, very very nice boats for wakeboarding!!

    http://epicboats.com/p-8289-23v-anniversary.html
    No thanks. Those are coax speakers that point at the water when you are wakeboarding.

    At max volume, you can barely hear them on the line.

    You can't put HLCDs in their place since water would run down the horn when you stop.

    Plus, it's not a Moomba...
    Nate

    2008 XLV GG (sold)
    2013 LSV

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Tallahassee, FL
    Posts
    11,256

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    Quote Originally Posted by NateHaskovec View Post
    No thanks. Those are coax speakers that point at the water when you are wakeboarding.

    At max volume, you can barely hear them on the line.

    You can't put HLCDs in their place since water would run down the horn when you stop.

    Plus, it's not a Moomba...
    Atta boy!!!!
    My Mom said I'm not allowed to get wet!
    2008 LSV
    2000 Outback LS (sold)
    Exile Tunes
    PWI
    LLTR!!!!!!!!



  6. #26
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Fort Worth
    Posts
    1,415

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MLA View Post
    The only adjustment to make in the head-unit is to turn the "Loud" off and set the EQ to flat and 0 bass and 0 treble. The other important settings are on the amp. The X-over filter needs to be on "hi-pass" and the x-over freq set to 100 Hz, with is the 3rd hash mark. To ball-park the gain, set it to about the 11 oclock position.

    Other then that, you've got the wrong type of speakers for projecting to wake-board range.
    Everything I know is a lie!!! Is this a starting point for everyone??? Pardon the hi-jack.
    '08 Mobius LS

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Lake Wylie NC Area
    Posts
    781

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    Chawk,

    The 1st steps to tuning a system is to start with the head-unit's internal EQ settings all flat or off or 0. Once the amp is tuned and set correctly, then some treble and bass can be added/subtracted at the head-unit, but only minor tweaking as your music genres changes. if one finds themselves adding a lot of treble or a lot of bass, then the amp settings need to be revisited. Same holds true with an external EQ. small adjustments are ok, but wholesale adjustments means the tuning is off and can actually damage speakers.

    The amps gain setting is really the only amp setting that has a "correct" setting. You need to be spot on the pre-clip point or below. below is ok, but past the point of clipping means poor sound went volume is cranked.

    The cross-over filter needs to be set according to the speaker type: Subs = low-pass and full-range and HLCDs = hi-pass.

    For a 6.5" coax on a tower, 100-120 Hz is a good place to start. The x-over frequency is somewhat flexible and can be adjusted to ones liking, with in a reasonable range. The size, type and application of the speaker is going to dictate the neighborhood of that setting.

    The 11 oclock gain setting I gave above is just for a reference, and is no way 100% accurate. But based on the amp, speakers and head-unit, I think its a safe point. if the OP's amp dial is well beyond that point, I would expect him to get the distortion he is experiencing. If the gain is well below that 11 oclock position, then output is being left on the table.

  8. #28
    Join Date
    May 2011
    Location
    Fort Worth
    Posts
    1,415

    Default

    I've done EVERYTHING wrong. Thanks for the info. I know what I will be doing tonight!!! Thank you!
    '08 Mobius LS

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