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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    London Ontario Canada
    Posts
    1,840

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by walb0244 View Post
    The first year I owned the boat I did drain everything per the thread with pictures on here. The following year I had to replace an exhaust manifold due to a crack in it. If I need to drain the water and then run antifreeze then I will. I just didn't know.
    When you drain your exhaust manifolds via the quick disconnect you have to make sure that water flows from both lines.....the drain hose/fitting on the manifold can become plugged and the manifold may not drain completely. I placed a t on mine and clamping one hose I can drain one manifold at a time to make sure neither fitting is plugged.....just poke your block drain hole and you will see the debris that can plug holes
    09 21v LAUNCH

    run your engine after you change your oil
    68 th Member. WS420,HSE Revolution, OJ 466, Acme1157,1100 sacs,Kicker HLCD's n IX500.4, Supra Coolies
    Doug

  2. #22

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    Hi, after reading your posts, I think I found the solution that I will use. First I will drain (block, manifold, etc) and then fill with antifreeze with this method :

    I will put a tubular system into the exhaust so I can have all the antifreeze into a bucket wich is pumped back to the "main" antifreeze bucket. The "main" antifreeze bucket is connected to the boat via a fake-a-lake.
    In this way, I don't loose liquid on the ground, I make a antifreeze loop so the boat can run idle for the necessary period. I also plan to use the same antifreeze solution for more than one winter. In my case the antifreeze will be an glycolic pink that need to be diluated (depending on the antifreeze level you need but around 50%). I think (and hope) it is a good solution, I just need to buy a pump
    2012 Moomba Mojo 2.5
    2x1100lbs, 370lbs, center hard tank+IBS
    ACME 1235 prop
    Wakeboard Hyperlite Belmont
    Wakeskate Hyperlite Byerly
    Wakesurf Hyperlite Broadcast 5.4

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Posts
    8

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    I ran a fake lake for 15 mins and then changed my oil, after this i pulled all my plugs ( trans/motor) disconnected my hoses, opened up my heater hoses and blew out water, drained water out of ballasts pumps added antifreeze to them. Once all this was completed i plumbed in a hose to intake of the water strainer were the water comes into the boat from the lake and cycled antifreeze through the boat for 20 mins, approx 4 gallons of antifreeze is sitting in the system, pulled the impeller. Once that was done i pulled the spark plugs and squirted a bit of oil into each cylinder. I hope this works cause it gettin cold out.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    London Ontario Canada
    Posts
    1,840

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by duch17 View Post
    I ran a fake lake for 15 mins and then changed my oil, after this i pulled all my plugs ( trans/motor) disconnected my hoses, opened up my heater hoses and blew out water, drained water out of ballasts pumps added antifreeze to them. Once all this was completed i plumbed in a hose to intake of the water strainer were the water comes into the boat from the lake and cycled antifreeze through the boat for 20 mins, approx 4 gallons of antifreeze is sitting in the system, pulled the impeller. Once that was done i pulled the spark plugs and squirted a bit of oil into each cylinder. I hope this works cause it gettin cold out.
    looks good, I assume you added stabil to your gas tank before you ran your motor and forgot to mention it
    09 21v LAUNCH

    run your engine after you change your oil
    68 th Member. WS420,HSE Revolution, OJ 466, Acme1157,1100 sacs,Kicker HLCD's n IX500.4, Supra Coolies
    Doug

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Des Moines, IA
    Posts
    2,577

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by gurt View Post
    Hi, after reading your posts, I think I found the solution that I will use. First I will drain (block, manifold, etc) and then fill with antifreeze with this method :

    I will put a tubular system into the exhaust so I can have all the antifreeze into a bucket wich is pumped back to the "main" antifreeze bucket. The "main" antifreeze bucket is connected to the boat via a fake-a-lake.
    In this way, I don't loose liquid on the ground, I make a antifreeze loop so the boat can run idle for the necessary period. I also plan to use the same antifreeze solution for more than one winter. In my case the antifreeze will be an glycolic pink that need to be diluated (depending on the antifreeze level you need but around 50%). I think (and hope) it is a good solution, I just need to buy a pump
    That will work, but if you want to simplify things just run a longer hose from your fake-a-lake to the bucket under your exhaust. And really don't need to put any pvc on the exhaust to catch it. Just a bucket or two, maybe a large storage container.

  6. #26
    Join Date
    May 2012
    Location
    Sewickley, PA
    Posts
    13

    Default Agreed; there should be plenty of suction; no need for pump

    Quote Originally Posted by brain_rinse View Post
    That will work, but if you want to simplify things just run a longer hose from your fake-a-lake to the bucket under your exhaust. And really don't need to put any pvc on the exhaust to catch it. Just a bucket or two, maybe a large storage container.
    Agreed; no need for a pump. In fact, when we winterized our I/O with this method, there was enough water suction that it would suck the hose flat to the bottom of the bucket. We solved this by drilling a few holes in the hose, and notching the cut end so it wasn't flat.

    Also: we added an extra rust inhibitor to our anti-freeze (like this: http://prestone.com/enca/node/425 ). Note that although it looks in the internet picture like a typical gallon container, it's just 14 ozs. in real life.
    David Bishop
    2006 Outback V

  7. #27
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Richmond, VA
    Posts
    1,784

    Default

    Here you go:

    http://www.moomba.com/msgboard/album.php?albumid=320


    Quote Originally Posted by gurt View Post
    Hi, after reading your posts, I think I found the solution that I will use. First I will drain (block, manifold, etc) and then fill with antifreeze with this method :

    I will put a tubular system into the exhaust so I can have all the antifreeze into a bucket wich is pumped back to the "main" antifreeze bucket. The "main" antifreeze bucket is connected to the boat via a fake-a-lake.
    In this way, I don't loose liquid on the ground, I make a antifreeze loop so the boat can run idle for the necessary period. I also plan to use the same antifreeze solution for more than one winter. In my case the antifreeze will be an glycolic pink that need to be diluated (depending on the antifreeze level you need but around 50%). I think (and hope) it is a good solution, I just need to buy a pump
    2007 Outback
    2012 RAM Crew Cab
    Stuart

  8. #28

    Default

    I think this will be the way I will do to winterize my Mojo :

    Winterization part 1 (at the lake)

    Put the boat on the trailer
    Clean the hull
    Empty the ballasts
    Put the fuel stabilizer
    Full the tank


    Winterization part 2 (at home)

    Clean water filters (if present)
    Remove the ballasts and clean/dry them
    Drain water in the block, manifold, V-drive, etc
    Check V-drive anode and replace if necessary (min 19mm)
    Reconnect all the drain and hoses
    Connect the fake-a-lake “loop without pump” system with antifreeze
    Run the engine for 10-15 minutes
    Check engine temperature !!
    Wait few minutes for the oil to cool down
    Change engine, V-drive, Gearbox oil and oil filter
    Run the engine few minutes
    Remove spark plug and spray fogging oil in each cylinder
    Run the starter 1 second without starting the engine (you have to disconnect “something”)
    Install old spark plugs
    Inspect the belts and replace if necessary
    Remove the battery and keep it inside and charged during winter
    Remove the water pump impeller, grease it and place it in a sealed bag
    Remove the ballast impellers, grease them and place them in a sealed bag
    Grease steering cables, starter bendix, etc
    Clean your boat inside/outside
    Place dehumidifier in your boat
    Put something under each seat and cover to allow air to circulate
    Put the cover and store your boat


    During the winter

    Check if the dehumidifier are not full
    Keep the battery inside, connected to a charger to maintain it charged


    Before the season part 1 (at home)

    Remove dehumidifier
    Check and refresh your antifouling if necessary
    Check and replace the anodes under the hull if necessary
    Remove the old spark plugs and spray fogging oil in each cylinder
    Run the starter 1 second without starting the engine (you have to disconnect “something”)
    Install new spark plugs with dielectric grease
    Clean flame arrestor and breather hose and replace PCV valve
    Drain antifreeze in the block, manifold, etc (keep it for next winter)
    Install raw water impeller
    Reconnect all the drain and hoses
    Install ballasts impellers
    Install ballasts
    Install battery
    Clean your boat


    Before the season part 2 (at the lake)

    Put the boat in the water, be careful to be sure that the thru hull intake for the raw water is in the water
    Start your engine and check the temperature


    During the season

    Check oil level (block, V-drive and Gearbox) at each time you refuel
    Replace block, V-drive and Gearbox oil and the oil filter each 30-35 hours
    2012 Moomba Mojo 2.5
    2x1100lbs, 370lbs, center hard tank+IBS
    ACME 1235 prop
    Wakeboard Hyperlite Belmont
    Wakeskate Hyperlite Byerly
    Wakesurf Hyperlite Broadcast 5.4

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Lake Wylie NC Area
    Posts
    749

    Default

    What are you going to grease the impellers with? I would suggest 100% silicone over anything thats petroleum based

    How many hours on your 2012? It will not need new plugs, unless its time based on hours. If thats the case, then the wires, cap and rotor if applicable, would also be due.

    The only thing different I would do, is fire the boat up on the fake-a-lake first, as opposed to doing at the ramp. Just in case.

  10. #30

    Default

    I will grease the impellers with Motul Tech Grease 300 (Multipurpose grease, formulated with synthetic base oil stocks and from complex lithium soap, with extreme-pressure, anti-wear, anti-oxidation and anti-corrosion additivation).

    My 2012 add about 435h when I bought it and now 500h (I did 65h this season). In the indmar manual they say to change spark plug annualy, that's why I plan to do it.

    I'm not sure to understand your last point... I don't plan to fire the boat up at the ramp but at home, do you mean I should connect the fake a lake on the ramp first and not at home ? I never plan to fire up the boat without the fake-a-lake. In wich case ?
    Thanks

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