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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Irondequoit Bay, NY
    Posts
    1,297

    Default distribution blocks

    looking for new blocks. i was sold 2 blocks made by stinger like this + from a local shop and i hate them, it got me through the summer, fixing it almost every time we went out since the 0 ga kept falling out. i wanna get new blocks that are better and come in and out straight ( digital is a plus ). looking for 0 in and 3 8ga? (i think ) out. ill have to look again.
    2004 Outback Blue/white w/5.7 indmar 350, Direct Drive
    Rockford fasgate cabins
    Rockford fasgate 500w amp (cabin) and a kenwood HU (kmr700u)
    Exile XM7's
    Exile Harpoon
    Exile ZLD
    Polk 10in sub (2)
    Polk P330 amp (subs)

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    De Pere WI
    Posts
    4,106

    Default

    This: Tsunami TPFDB-4PG.

    takes care of both pos/neg with one block. 0gauge in and 4/8 out.
    '06 Supra Launch 20SSV-gone but never forgotten

  3. #3

    Default

    Also, heavy-gauge multi-strand wire is resilient, especially when you add in the shock and vibration of a towboat, so avoid very tight radiuses leading into your terminations.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2012
    Location
    Greenville, SC
    Posts
    104

    Default

    I'm currently working on an install and used a single T-spec distribution block and a T-spec inline fuse for my dual amp setup. It looked like the brand that would come in the exile kit, so figured it must be pretty good stuff.

    The block I used handles the positive and negative feeds and 0 gauge in 4 gauge out. I haven't even turned the system on yet, but seems sturdy enough.

    http://www.amazon.com/T-Spec-V12DB-1...ribution+block

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Lake Wylie NC Area
    Posts
    723

    Default

    Is your 0 ga undersized?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Irondequoit Bay, NY
    Posts
    1,297

    Default

    what does that mean?. when i set up the blocks i kinda did a crappy job of where i mounted the posi block. so it would be at a 90* at the bottom of the board. so it would come out with the vibration and pounding of the water..i just got those stingers because i was kinda in a rush and just kept them for the summer. i might re wire the board this spring with new blocks and make it all look more clean
    Last edited by motosno963; 03-05-2014 at 01:20 PM.
    2004 Outback Blue/white w/5.7 indmar 350, Direct Drive
    Rockford fasgate cabins
    Rockford fasgate 500w amp (cabin) and a kenwood HU (kmr700u)
    Exile XM7's
    Exile Harpoon
    Exile ZLD
    Polk 10in sub (2)
    Polk P330 amp (subs)

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Lake Wylie NC Area
    Posts
    723

    Default

    you say the cable keeps falling out, is it undersized (cheap) 0ga, so the set screw is not getting a good bite on it?

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Tallahassee, FL
    Posts
    11,096

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by motosno963 View Post
    i might re wire the board this spring with new blocks and make it all look more clean
    I think I'm going to make a nice board and rewire everything clean too. I have to change out my Kicker 250.2 amp when I add my DVC sub so I'll be in there wearing out my elbows anyway. I think I can salvage a nice piece of carpet from my ski locker when I replace it with new mats.
    My Mom said I'm not allowed to get wet!
    2008 LSV
    2000 Outback LS (sold)
    Exile Tunes
    PWI
    LLTR!!!!!!!!



  9. #9
    Join Date
    Mar 2010
    Location
    Irondequoit Bay, NY
    Posts
    1,297

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by MLA View Post
    you say the cable keeps falling out, is it undersized (cheap) 0ga, so the set screw is not getting a good bite on it?
    i think its stinger 0ga. i dont remember. the pos 0 keeps falling out but the neg side stays in. i think its how its all mounted but im still not a big fan of the blocks and want to get something clean. would be nice if i could find some digital blocks for 1 in and 3 4/8ga out
    2004 Outback Blue/white w/5.7 indmar 350, Direct Drive
    Rockford fasgate cabins
    Rockford fasgate 500w amp (cabin) and a kenwood HU (kmr700u)
    Exile XM7's
    Exile Harpoon
    Exile ZLD
    Polk 10in sub (2)
    Polk P330 amp (subs)

  10. #10

    Default

    Here you go. Odin from Earmark let me borrow this excerpt from one of his 80 marine audio installation procedure documents. I've modified it a bit to fit the situation here in this thread. It's a fairly comprehensive do's and don'ts for this type of wiring.


    You may need a better distribution block or one more appropriately sized for the wire you have. However, if the set screws remain tight then I don’t have any reason to question the quality of the distribution blocks. Sizing may be a different story.

    There is a lot of very cheap wire that is rated at 0-gauge but once measured is very disappointing. Unfortunately there is no one to regulate and enforce such standards. So if the price of the wire is half the cost of the others and weighs less per foot for the same gauge then you most likely have fallen for what appeared to be a good value and now you’re finding out different.
    The wire may not have sufficient diameter, even though it has a large gauge rating, and therefore doesn’t have enough surface contact to properly fill, bind in, and stay locked in the particular size of distribution block. You can’t fault the distribution block for being sized for the correct wire gauge.
    I would also be cautious of a cheaper wire that isn’t high grade copper. Some cheaper wire is much higher resistance for the same gauge with an aluminum alloy and may have a cosmetic coating to appear like OFC. If this coating releases easily it could skin and slide out of any distribution block in which it is secured.

    Heavy-gauge multi-strand wire is resilient when bent and wants to straighten out, thereby creating a continuous force to pull loose from the distribution block. This is especially true if the wire is bent into a tight radius leading up to the distribution block, not strained relieved close to the block to remove the bulk of the wire weight from the block connector, or if the wire length is too short. All this is compounded by the considerable shock and vibration in a towboat. Weight times distance times a tight radius or a short wire times shock and vibration dramatically multiplies the chances of a termination failure. So make sure you use adequate length, you make larger wire radiuses, and you strain relieve the wire with a screw down clamp or tie in several locations leading up to the distribution block on each wire. Now if you screw down a wire too close to the termination, you might be creating another radius binding problem. So if the distribution block opening is an inch up off the amp panel surface, for example, then leave enough distance so that the wire can comfortably negotiate that ‘S’ as it is screwed down.
    Actually this is a common problem with battery terminations where the battery terminal is recessed below the side edge of the case and the heavy wire is forced into an ‘S’ over the side of the case and down to the battery post. It is common for the terminal to lift off the post or the crimped termination to pull loose from the wire after a little time, shock and vibration. The heavier the gauge wire the more likely this will occur. The answer here is usually to notch the side of the battery case so the wire has more of a direct shot at the post….or to leave a little excess length, change the angle of approach and with more of a soft radius.

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