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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    South Carolina
    Posts
    738

    Default Speaker connections (any one using something other than Neutrik connectors)?

    My Wetsounds Pro 80's have the neutrik chassis connectors installed in them from WS, and last year I had trouble with one of the speakers where it kept cutting out and it seemed to be isolated to a loose connection with those neutrik connectors. It was a PITA to keep fiddling with them. Well last June I ordered a new set, and stupidly ordered the wrong set (bought 8-pole when I needed to replace 4-pole but that's what I get for not checking and knowing the difference), so before I ordered a new set of the RIGHT connectors I wanted to see what everyone has on their speakers (whether they be WS or Exile)? I have the Parts Express catalog in front of me which spawned my question to see if there were other options out there that would eliminate this "loose connection" problem.

    *Disclosure: I am not a speaker or electronic guru so if you do suggest an alternative please give it to me in plain english where I can search for it and look at what it is you are talking about. I'm just not in the know regarding stereo equipment and such. Thank you!
    2008 Supra 21V
    2,600 lbs., Gravity III
    Z5 Cargo Rack
    Stereo: Pair of Wetsounds Pro 80's, Rockford Fosgate P500-2, Kicker ZX200.4, Exile ZLD, stock Kicker in-cabins, stock Kenwood HU
    Tow rig: 2008 Slate Tundra, Bilstein 5100's (F&R), 295/65/18 wrapped in Duratracs

  2. #2

    Default

    Although a little bulky, the Neutrik (or Speak-On) is the best high current connection you can have on a tower speaker by a country mile. So get the direct/correct replacement part. With the Neutrik you have a 360 degree pressure fit. But the connector is only as good as the quality of terminations. Better execution in making up those connectors should resolve that. And if you see any evidence of corrosion use dielectric grease. Make sure you have found the problematic side, whether it be the male or female connector.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    South Carolina
    Posts
    738

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by David Analog View Post
    Although a little bulky, the Neutrik (or Speak-On) is the best high current connection you can have on a tower speaker by a country mile. So get the direct/correct replacement part. With the Neutrik you have a 360 degree pressure fit. But the connector is only as good as the quality of terminations. Better execution in making up those connectors should resolve that. And if you see any evidence of corrosion use dielectric grease. Make sure you have found the problematic side, whether it be the male or female connector.
    Thank you, but I am not following you entirely in your response. What do you mean by "better execution in making up those connections should resolve that"? Should I be looking for corrosion on the ends of the speaker wires? I'll have to look into dielectric grease. The speaker connectors used to sit outdoors with my boat so they were exposed to any elements, mostly rain, humidity, and heat. Now I have the boat in my garage, I just need to figure out why it's cutting out I guess.
    2008 Supra 21V
    2,600 lbs., Gravity III
    Z5 Cargo Rack
    Stereo: Pair of Wetsounds Pro 80's, Rockford Fosgate P500-2, Kicker ZX200.4, Exile ZLD, stock Kicker in-cabins, stock Kenwood HU
    Tow rig: 2008 Slate Tundra, Bilstein 5100's (F&R), 295/65/18 wrapped in Duratracs

  4. #4

    Default

    Yes, it would be a very good idea to take the connectors apart (both the male and female), pin by pin, to see exactly where and why you have an intermittent connection. With that discovery, you can make sure you never have a repeat.
    You have four pins per each connector. Two are unused unless you are using lights. You could switch over to the opposing and unused two. The connectors on the tower side where made up during the initial tower speaker installation. That is a good place to start your inspection. The root cause will then quickly become apparent.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Lake Wylie NC Area
    Posts
    720

    Default

    I keep these in stock if you dont want to wait for another order. How many do you need and do you need both halves?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    South Carolina
    Posts
    738

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by David Analog View Post
    Yes, it would be a very good idea to take the connectors apart (both the male and female), pin by pin, to see exactly where and why you have an intermittent connection. With that discovery, you can make sure you never have a repeat.
    You have four pins per each connector. Two are unused unless you are using lights. You could switch over to the opposing and unused two. The connectors on the tower side where made up during the initial tower speaker installation. That is a good place to start your inspection. The root cause will then quickly become apparent.
    That sounds like good advice and I'll check by moving the wires to the other "unused" poles.

    Quote Originally Posted by MLA View Post
    I keep these in stock if you dont want to wait for another order. How many do you need and do you need both halves?
    MLA, I need 2, but not yet sure if I need both halves or not. I'm thinking the cable connector is the piece I will need to replace, not the chassis connection.
    2008 Supra 21V
    2,600 lbs., Gravity III
    Z5 Cargo Rack
    Stereo: Pair of Wetsounds Pro 80's, Rockford Fosgate P500-2, Kicker ZX200.4, Exile ZLD, stock Kicker in-cabins, stock Kenwood HU
    Tow rig: 2008 Slate Tundra, Bilstein 5100's (F&R), 295/65/18 wrapped in Duratracs

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Lake Wylie NC Area
    Posts
    720

    Default

    gotchya covered all the way around.

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