Page 2 of 3 FirstFirst 123 LastLast
Results 11 to 20 of 21
  1. #11
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Clermont, Fl
    Posts
    230

    Default

    be prepared to not get that Vault cap back on once it is removed.

    I had to remove mine rather forcibly and it could not be re-used. Luckily, I contacted the folks at Vault and they set me up with a kit, which included a new cap, o-ring, rear seal and a tube of the "special" lube.

    EDIT: I did this repair last fall. Trailer is a 2009 model and I got the repair kit at no charge - wheel hub was still under warranty. Check warranty on yours.
    Last edited by slipperyrockTKE300; 06-25-2014 at 11:40 AM.
    Ed Geary
    2009 Moomba Outback V
    Clermont, Fl

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    North Mississippi
    Posts
    112

    Default

    Thanks for the replies guys. It did just start leaking during my last trip to/from the lake as I always chock that wheel when I get home and that's when I noticed it. Maybe to be on the safe side I'll see if I can cleanly remove the vault cap using a deadblow and check / repack it with some marine grease for now. If the cap doesn't appear to cooperate, maybe I'll roll the dice for one round trip as I wait for parts. I'm just glad this vault system is 'maintenance free'...sheesh.
    2008 Mobius LSV
    1100#er's in the lockers
    ski locker sac
    IBS
    Johnson reversibles
    3 vent heater (which my family loves)

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Tallahassee, FL
    Posts
    11,075

    Default

    I would probably order the kit and get ready to scrap the cap. Then I'd drill a hole in it and install a grease zerk so I could add grease before I left and each time I stopped to check for heat. I'd stop a couple of times to check it on the way and fill it up good before I dipped the trailer in the water.
    My Mom said I'm not allowed to get wet!
    2008 LSV
    2000 Outback LS (sold)
    Exile Tunes
    PWI
    LLTR!!!!!!!!



  4. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    South Carolina
    Posts
    738

    Default Trailer axle bearing / seal leaking?

    I don't understand slipperyrocks statement, maybe you had a real problem getting it back on or you dented it pulling it off but I've never had a problem yet pulling them off and putting back on with a dead blow hammer and then just using a piece of wood to center it when getting it back on. Everyone has their own experiences though.
    2008 Supra 21V
    2,600 lbs., Gravity III
    Z5 Cargo Rack
    Stereo: Pair of Wetsounds Pro 80's, Rockford Fosgate P500-2, Kicker ZX200.4, Exile ZLD, stock Kicker in-cabins, stock Kenwood HU
    Tow rig: 2008 Slate Tundra, Bilstein 5100's (F&R), 295/65/18 wrapped in Duratracs

  5. #15
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Clermont, Fl
    Posts
    230

    Default

    When mine went bad I immediately contacted the folks at UFP.

    They (2 different Customer Service Reps) told me that in order to get the cap off, I was gonna have to use a mallet and in doing so, will most likely damage the thing. They said I was going to have to beat it off, but I saved that for another time.

    from the manufacturers instructions:

    "Remove the VAULT wheel bearing protector. The protector is held in the
    hub by an interference fit. To remove cap, lay a block of wood against the
    side of it and strike the wood with a hammer. Place the wood on the
    opposite side and hit it again. Continue this procedure until you slowly
    “walk” the cap out of the hub. "


    This procedure did in fact damage the cap.

    yes - maintenance free for five years... and it must watch the calendar.
    Ed Geary
    2009 Moomba Outback V
    Clermont, Fl

  6. #16
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Clermont, Fl
    Posts
    230

    Default

    forgot to mention...the good folks at UFP also include a pvc sleeve in the kit to help re-install the new cap without damaging it.

    Forget using this.

    Using the included sleeve, the new vault cap went on nice and straight, but I had to break out the Dremel and cut the damn sleeve off the cap.
    Ed Geary
    2009 Moomba Outback V
    Clermont, Fl

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    South Carolina
    Posts
    738

    Default Trailer axle bearing / seal leaking?

    LOL, yeah you had quite the experience!
    2008 Supra 21V
    2,600 lbs., Gravity III
    Z5 Cargo Rack
    Stereo: Pair of Wetsounds Pro 80's, Rockford Fosgate P500-2, Kicker ZX200.4, Exile ZLD, stock Kicker in-cabins, stock Kenwood HU
    Tow rig: 2008 Slate Tundra, Bilstein 5100's (F&R), 295/65/18 wrapped in Duratracs

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2013
    Location
    North Mississippi
    Posts
    112

    Default

    Man, the plot keeps thickening....

    Kane, I like your idea and may go that route. I'll probably start with the dead blow routine and see if it cooperates as it did for cigars, otherwise cut my loses before the cap becomes unusable and go with the zerk idea.

    Now this brings up another question...go figure:

    How is the inside of the vault pressurized? I believe the instructions say 3-6psi. I know on the conventional buddy bearing there's a zerk fitting which pumps grease past a spring loaded plate that forces the grease into the bearings. On the vault there's no such thing (without kanes mod of course), so how is the grease forced into the bearings and/or pressurized?
    2008 Mobius LSV
    1100#er's in the lockers
    ski locker sac
    IBS
    Johnson reversibles
    3 vent heater (which my family loves)

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Mar 2012
    Location
    South Carolina
    Posts
    738

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ninedriver View Post
    Man, the plot keeps thickening....

    Kane, I like your idea and may go that route. I'll probably start with the dead blow routine and see if it cooperates as it did for cigars, otherwise cut my loses before the cap becomes unusable and go with the zerk idea.

    Now this brings up another question...go figure:

    How is the inside of the vault pressurized? I believe the instructions say 3-6psi. I know on the conventional buddy bearing there's a zerk fitting which pumps grease past a spring loaded plate that forces the grease into the bearings. On the vault there's no such thing (without kanes mod of course), so how is the grease forced into the bearings and/or pressurized?
    You got me on the Pressurized question but just pack it in there and you're good to go! I'm interested to see if anyone answers this.
    2008 Supra 21V
    2,600 lbs., Gravity III
    Z5 Cargo Rack
    Stereo: Pair of Wetsounds Pro 80's, Rockford Fosgate P500-2, Kicker ZX200.4, Exile ZLD, stock Kicker in-cabins, stock Kenwood HU
    Tow rig: 2008 Slate Tundra, Bilstein 5100's (F&R), 295/65/18 wrapped in Duratracs

  10. #20
    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Clermont, Fl
    Posts
    230

    Default

    sometimes I think we all see the wrong pdf instructions for our trailer hubs. I came across two that are very similar.

    Ours are not pressurized - other than the lube being forced into the bearings and trapped until a slight oozing appears on the front bearing, and then the cap squeezes the grease back in.

    I'm not so sure that the spring loaded cap will allow for a zerk fitting to work. Not saying it won't, but after seeing how it operates, not sure it will. There is a mechanism inside the cap that spins and it may keep grease from getting to the bearings.

    The zirk fitting - (a new one comes with the rebuild kit) is located under the cap
    Last edited by slipperyrockTKE300; 06-26-2014 at 06:01 AM.
    Ed Geary
    2009 Moomba Outback V
    Clermont, Fl

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •