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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    167

    Default Connell FX..need some advice

    Hey all~ First post here in the skiing section. We've been mainly boarding/surfing for awhile now, but I finally picked up a ski and need some advice. Using an '04 Mobius LS. I bought a 68" FX from a guy on Craigslist with stoker bindings. I am 6', 200lbs. I think it might be a tad too small for me but couldn't pass up the deal, and figured I'd ride it until I outgrew it, at which point it should be a great "guest" ski.

    So, since it's a shaped ski, do you think I'm OK with a 68"? I adjusted the bindings slightly backwards (one hole) both in the front and back as it felt like there was not enought tip, sort of like it wanted to plaow into the turn. The guy I bought it from was 5'9" 180lbs. It still feels really slow and does not want to setup for a turn. Btw, I am a freeskier only, never even tried a course. I've been told that since it's shaped it's just a slow ski, period. Oh, and I run about 26-28mph at 75'...Any input here?

    Also, I played around with the fin settings and cannot tell a difference, probably due to my lack of experience. The guy at my local ski shop said if the ski feels slow to just take it off as it only assists in braking going into a turn...somehting I obviously don't need. Will try that next time around.

    Any other experience, advice, suggestions, etc?

    Thanks guys/gals!

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    s.e. washington state
    Posts
    2,115

    Default

    I am 240 lbs and I run a 69" ski and it does fine. I recommend going no less than 60' on length and increasing your speed to at least 32mph. I run two lengths off and 36mph and it's wicked but a great upper body workout. Try the speed and length first and if you still feel uncomfortable you may try moving your bindings (remember your original settings). If your ski is kicking out from you on the turns then you need to shift more weight forward either by changing your technique or moving the bindings forward. There are instructors on this website than can give you more detailed instructions. Location of the front and rear bindings to each other can make a difference too.

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    167

    Default

    Thanks Zabooda (again)!. My front and rear bindings are touching (that's how I was told they should be set). As for location on the ski, I'm not really sure if they're centered, more forward, more back, etc...I think I just need to do a little more experimenting. Thinking I'll try 15'off next time too and see if that helps my speed. It feels like by the time I get out to start my turn that I've lost all my momentum and the boat is literally yanking me out of my carve about 1/2 way through. Hard to explain since I have neither the lingo or experience

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Minnesota and Wisconsin
    Posts
    1,139

    Default style - speed - length

    I am not an instructor - the views here are just my opinion, but I have been skiing for 40 years, and have learned a lot in just the last couple years.

    I have never riden a shaped ski so I am not sure how this all applies. But it is my understanding is that the shaping is supposed to make things easier to get up?, and maybe to initiate a turn? but I think that it was always intended that the FX still be skied the way a slalom is supposed to be skied. I think a shaped ski is different than a wide-body ski, so I would think the ski length for a shaped ski would be similar as that for a normal ski, and 68 is probably Ok (unless you stay at those slow speeds, thn may need to go longer)

    So - regarding line length. I recommend NEVER skiing long line - 75'. When I get a new rope I take the first section off and use it for a boat rope. No one in my family has ever skied long line in almost 20 years. Start with 15 off and for fun once in a while try something shorter (cautiously at first), if for no other reason just to show your boatmates how close the pros get to the boat. I think if you are not in the course that most recreational skiers with some confidence can handle 22 off without too much risk.

    Regarding speed = at 200 lbs I am suprised you can stay above water at 26 mph. Minimum speed for you would be 30 mph, and I highly recomend you consider 32. 34-36 is a lot of fun but you should get comfortable at 32 before going up. You don't have to be great to try it, just comfortable. Depending on your age, you probably want to stay away from 36 mph. This speed at shorter lines is what pro skiing is all about.

    The rest is style. I would wait on trying to tune the ski until you get your speed up to where the ski is actually perfroming it's normal functions. At those slow speeds I don't think you are even benefiting from the concavity of the ski. You certainly do not need the foil. Proper body position and use of your knees and arms correctly is going to do more for you than move your bindings or adjusting your wing at this point.

    My 2+ cents
    Dave

    PS. Check out a post on the slalom board here with a link to Chris Rossi's site. There is a great article on all the elements of good style.
    If you believe something to be true, it will be - in it's consequences.
    http://bensonwdby.home.comcast.net/

    2009 MasterCraft ProStar 197 - DD - 5.7L - 325HP - Zero Off

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
    Location
    s.e. washington state
    Posts
    2,115

    Default

    I might have erred some as I didn't catch the "shaped" part. I would recommend the shorter rope and faster speed but I tried a shaped ski a few years back with the larger surface you don't need to go as fast as a comp ski and the cuts will be more gradual as the wider ski catches more water in the turns. I personally didn't care for that type of ski as I couldn't ski at my normal speed as there is too much resistance in the turns and my turns were rather wide. I may have enjoyed it more if I spent more time with it. Like Benson said, I ditch the last section of the rope and I use it later in the season to fib a new section that gets worn down. I would also recommend varying one thing at a time so you know what what is helping you and what makes things worse starting out with the easiest changes and that is the rope first and then the speed where you can do the thumbs up and down as your skiing to find the right speed.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    167

    Default

    Many, many thanks guys! I'll be out early Fri a.m. before the holiday crowds hit to snipe a few more runs. I'll definitely take it down to 60' and try upping the speed a bit. I'll start around 28-30 and see how it goes. I think you hit the nail on the head regarding speed. It feels slow because it is!, lol! I'm also going to set the foil at neutral or zero to start and just play around with one thing at a time until I notice a difference. I think most of it is my inexperience, so with time, hopefully I'll find a setup that works for me. btw, I haven't noticed it being any easier to get up and I always do deep water starts w/ both feet in. Kinda' surprising Thanks again and I'll post some feedback Fri night!
    ~M

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    167

    Default

    Follow-up...changed the foil back to zero and took 10' off the rope...what a difference! Ski was much quicker and ain/out of the turn better. That was the ticket...THANKS GUYS!!!
    MDB

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Minnesota and Wisconsin
    Posts
    1,139

    Default

    Where did you get a rope with a 10'off section? Are you using a wakeboard rope?

    If you liked 10 off, try going to the standard 15 off. I recommend a slalom rope with preset sections.

    Bummer about yuur ski getting lost. At least yo got out this weekend. I spent the whole weekend waiting either for the weather to warm up, someone to ski with, or driver to be available. Never once did all come together so I never got wet.

    I am 5'10, about 215, and ski on a 68 inch Connelly Concept. Recently put some O'brien Contact bindings on them since the originals finally came apart. I would think the Stokers will be fine for now. In fact any soft/firm rubber binding would probably work.

    Dave
    If you believe something to be true, it will be - in it's consequences.
    http://bensonwdby.home.comcast.net/

    2009 MasterCraft ProStar 197 - DD - 5.7L - 325HP - Zero Off

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    167

    Default

    Sorry Dave, I meant 15' off. It is indeed a ski rope.

    So, the Connelly bindings pretty much suck then?

    tnx!

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jan 2003
    Location
    Minnesota and Wisconsin
    Posts
    1,139

    Default Connelly bindings

    I have skied Connelly (two different skis) for about 20 years and have not had trouble with bindings until recently. The bindings on my Concept failed after about 5-6 years. It was my own fault. I started letting a lot of people use my ski and they were not hesitant about trying to get their 11s in my medium boot.

    I bought the O'brien Contact front boot because I could not find a Connelly replacement locally and I wanted to try the binding on before I bought.

    These days I think it is more about hole patterns than anything. Older skis did not have threaded inserts, you just filled old holes and drilled new one. Not sure you can do that on a lot of new skis.

    The O'Briens freaked me out the first time out because they are way stiffer. I adpated pretty quick and now like them, except for that stupid tightening string. I can not find a good place to wrap that and hoook so that it does not come loose and start slapping me in the leg. For someone who is as much of a head case as me when it comes to skiing, that is a bummer.

    Good luck with new ski.
    Dave
    If you believe something to be true, it will be - in it's consequences.
    http://bensonwdby.home.comcast.net/

    2009 MasterCraft ProStar 197 - DD - 5.7L - 325HP - Zero Off

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