Hey guys I got my last run of the Season in this Weekend......
A problem started with the driveshaft somewhere around the packing nut area.
After cruising for a while I started to hear this squealing sound so I slowed down and it went away and I thought ok just an odd noise. So I sped back up and the noise came back again and I knew something was going bad.
At first I couldn't figure out where it was coming from and started freaking out thinking the motor was gonna blow up on me.
I had a friend drive while I lifted the doghouse up and waited for the sound again. It only does it periodically then goes away then comes back again.
It was coming from right around the packing nut area and was making a terrible sound as if you would run the boat on a fake-a-lake and put the boat in gear and it makes that horrible sound because the driveshaft isn't in water.
I can't seem to figure out what is exactly causing this sound.
I really hope it's not something with the transmission; however it never did slip on me and fluid is good.
Another thing is that I need to replace the packing or just tighten the nut up because it has a steady flow of water coming in and the bilge is constantly running and that started a few weeks ago, but I haven't had time to check it out yet. I wonder if this could be part of the culprit?
I was just worried when it started making this sound over the weeknd, but at least it is the end of the season for me and I want to try and get it diagnosed/fixed before storage.
If anyone has an idea what it could be please feel free to point me in the right direction.
Results 1 to 10 of 11
10-14-2008, 03:01 AM #1
Loud Squeal Periodically From Driveshaft'99 Outback (Maroon/Creme) GM 350/Holley 4150
10-14-2008, 08:51 AM #2Sled491 Guest
If I recall correctly you have a 99 outback? If this is correct it wouldn't be a bad idea to as Ed suggested change to the drippless seal. However also consider some preventative maintanence such as a new strut bushing and such. If you get the whole drive line tightned up and fresh you should easily get another 10 yrs of maintenance free use.
10-14-2008, 09:32 AM #3
make sure the hose clamps around the packing gland are tight...
and at least replace the packing.. only about $3.00 in parts from skidim.com or splurge and get the gore tex packing for $12.
I had a similar issue/noise. quit when I did the above.
2011 Launch 21V
2006 Moomba Mobius LSV sold
2004 Outback sold
10-15-2008, 08:49 AM #4
Replace the packing rope, or get the drippless unit. I had the same problem a few years back with my '99 Outback. When we replaced the rope, a small piece of rope remained around the shaft. While tightening the nut, it created an uneven distribution of pressure on the shaft. The squealing you hear is brass on brass, and it is scoring your drive shaft. Mine needed a little care to remove the etching that was there. When we removed the old piece and put new rope in (replace once a season) the sound and worry was gone. Over 100 hours since then and no noise and zero problems. My Outback has 600 hours and runs like a champ. 270 ski runs this year for me, May 20th to October 4th in Central NY.
10-15-2008, 11:09 AM #5Junior Member
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
- Long Island - north shore
I had the same noise on my '06 Outback LS at the 85 hour mark. Every left hand turn, we'd hear a squealing sound out of the drivetrain. I inspected the packing which was leaking a steady stream. When I broke the lock nut loose, the main nut free-wheeled about 90 degrees clockwise indicating that the packing had no pressure on it. I rotated the packing nut by hand until it seated lightly. The drip rate now was 1 every 5 seconds, and the noise disappeared completely. Packing is cool to the touch after ski runs.
I figured that the "loose" packing was actually creating some kind of vibration/harmonics issue which was being sent through the driveshaft and becoming magnified? Either way, a slight adjustment of the packing seems to have done the trick. I now have 100 hours with no squealing since the adjustment - and my bilge is much drier!
10-16-2008, 01:01 AM #6
Thanks alot for the help guys.
I pretty much figured it was the shaft packing, but wasn't quite sure if it could be something else as well.
Do I want the 1/4" or 3/16" Gortex shaft packing?
I'm also considering the strut bushing just so I can do everything all at once and not have to worry about it next year.
Would this be the correct bushing I want?: http://skidim.com/prodinfo.asp?number=SB10X12
I'm going to change the tranny fluid and filter too.
Other than that I'm happy to say I put 110 problem free hours on her this Summer!!'99 Outback (Maroon/Creme) GM 350/Holley 4150
10-16-2008, 02:52 PM #7
Here is what Brian Raymond sent me a while back:
Replacing and Adjusting the Shaft Packing.
- Replace the shaft packing. Be sure to install two or three pieces.
- Loosen the jam nut on the shaft-packing gland.
- Back the gland nut off the packing gland assembly.
- Dig out all the old packing material.
- For a one inch shaft, cut two to three pieces of 1/4"dia. packing material strips so they are 4 1/8". Place one of the packing strips into the packing nut. The end should butt together. Place another piece in the packing nut, this time orienting the seam 180 degrees from the seam of the first piece.
- Slide the packing nut up the shaft.
- Slide the shaft through the Packing gland assembly and into the strut.
- Screw the packing nut onto the packing gland assembly. Tighten it up as much as possible by hand. Then using a wrench, turn the nut a 1/2 a turn forward and a 1/4 turn back. Then turn the nut a 1/2 a turn forward and a 1/4 turn back. Then turn the nut a ½ a turn forward and a 1/4 turn back. This will pack the packing fairly tight.
- Back the packing nut off the assembly again. Then thread it back on. Tighten it only as tight as you can get it using your hands. This should be almost the perfect tightness for the packing gland so that it does not leak, yet not too tight so that the packing burns up.
- Tighten the Lock Nut up to the Packing Gland Nut.
If you want to add the third piece of packing, do so when you back the nut off after you packed the packing. Then tighten the nut only as tight as you can get it using your hands. This should be almost the perfect tightness for the packing gland so that it does not leak, yet not too tight so that the packing burns up.
3/16” PACKING FOR V DRIVE
¼” PACKING FOR DIRECT DRIVE
Ideally, you want 1 drop of water every 30-45 seconds when the boat is in gear at idle. (Be sure the boat is in the water)
10-18-2008, 08:22 AM #8
Nice post Jesse
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05-20-2013, 08:29 PM #9Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2009
05-20-2013, 08:32 PM #10Senior Member
- Join Date
- Dec 2006
- Tuscaloosa, Alabama
Yes, it will sound horrible. I don't recommend doing that.Jack Beams
'05 Outback DD
325HP EFI Indmar