Looking to dewinterize the boomerang in the next month, was wondering what are some basics plus mechanical fixes I need to go over. I have yet to change out the impeller for years, was wondering if I need to and how to a checklist would be great. The service book that came with it is not.
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Thread: Service On 96 Boomerang
03-24-2004, 04:43 PM #1Junior Member
- Join Date
- Mar 2004
Service On 96 Boomerang
03-28-2004, 01:49 PM #2Senior Member
- Join Date
- Apr 2003
- Powhatan, VA
Replying to Topic 'Service On 96 Boomerang'
There's been a lot of talk about boomearangs during the last year. We also created a spare parts checklist for all boats. If you haven't done it yet, try a search. It might gin-up some good stuff for your checklist. Brian explained some sort of rudder maintenance unique to these BEASTS that prevents water influx.
Here's a checklist off the top of my head. Know that mine is a 99 outback...don't have specific experience with boomerang. Yours is a 96, so I have that in mind when listing this stuff.
Align shaft. Consider new packing.
Change oil & filter. Let it sit for a couple hours to ensure drainage.
New fuel filter.
New impeller whether it still looks good or not. You may have a tough time removing the old one. Use a little antiseize compound on the shaft when reassembling.
Check battery water. Consider replacing battery outright, whether it needs it or not, if 3 years or older.
Grease the steering at the rudder attachment point ( may need to disassemble, clean, lube, and reassemble, if no grease fitting)
Grease the rudder/rudder shaft itself from inside the boat ( I have a grease fitting here)
Randomely select and wind-out one spark plug on each bank. Check gap and condition. If out, change them all, using a little antiseize on the threads and being careful not to crossthread.
Use dielectric silicone grease on any plug or distrib cap electrical boot you have to take off.
Pop off distrib. cap carefully, without disconnecting wires if pos. Look for wear/carbon tracking/ moisture/ corrosion. If any of these are found, replace both cap and rotor with exact marine duplicates. ( you have a pcm 351 ford???)
Take a very close look at the wires at points where they seem to touch any part of the engine or the wire holders. If you see erosion of the plastic wire cover, or any nicking of the plastic, then consider replacing the entire set with a marine set directly from the motor mfctr.
Check the bilge pump. I don't know what type they used, but if you can open it, look for debris and clear it. Wipe the bilge down with a rag so any debris doesn't end-up in the bilge pump.
Check hoses. Check fan belt. Replace, or at least buy them ahead of time and stick them in the boat if you have any gut feelings that they could break.
Trailer: Check lights, brakes/hub grease if you tow very far or in mountains like us, tires for pressure and steel belts coming through ( we lost one last year ), & spare tire.
Boat / trailer inspection stickers and registration and tax stickers as needed. Fishing license ( got nailed here, too ).
And yes, I am an anal engineer by training, a shadetree mechanic who has never been back to a dealer because I am cheap, and a redneck by geography.
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