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  1. #31
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    California
    Posts
    2,840

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    Ed, i saw that too but passed on it as the hole would have to be a precision fit or the detent ball would not hold. I was looking at ease of use and durability.
    2007 Mobius LSV

  2. #32
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    California
    Posts
    2,840

    Default

    You could be right Ed. I'm opening mine up in the morning so i'm going to get a good look at and see if we have other options.
    2007 Mobius LSV

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    California
    Posts
    2,840

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    Well i just did a very long look-see and eval and i'm of the same conclusion as Ed. In order to do it right you'd have to pull the engine compartment upper framework and do a total re-work and imo it's just not worth it, for me at least.
    2007 Mobius LSV

  4. #34
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Tigard, Oregon
    Posts
    3,016

    Default

    See post below.
    Last edited by cab13367; 09-23-2009 at 03:04 AM.
    Al

    2006 Mobius LSV

  5. #35
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Tigard, Oregon
    Posts
    3,016

    Default

    Thought I would take a stab at this. I've pasted the pic below for reference. Please ignore the notes on the pic. The ski pylon is held in place by the bolt you see in the pic plus one underneath that you don't see. So the two points of attachment keep it rigid when in use. So how about if we drilled two new holes in the square tube, along the same vertical plane as the existing bolt hole, but one near the top of the square tube and one near the bottom. Then drill and thread two corresponding, horizontal holes in the pylon for the bolts to screw into. The existing bolt you see in the pic can now be removed and abandoned as it's now unnecessary. The two new bolts (one near the top and one near the bottom of the square tube) will now hold the pylon securely in place in the up position so we can remove the bolt underneath the pylon and cut the bottom of the square tube open.

    For the lowered position, remove the two bolts, slide the pylon down so the top threaded hole in the pylon now lines up with the bottom hole on the square tube. Insert a bolt here and tighten. This one bolt is enough to hold the pylon in the down position and snugly against the square tube.

    You'll have to do some measuring before drilling the new holes to make sure the top of the pylon is flush with the sun pad in the lowered position.

    There are some emissions control electronics directly under the ski pylon but it looked liked they could easily be relocated. I think you'd need to in order for the pylon to lower enough and be flush with the top of the sun pad.

    So it will require removing one bolt and installing two to raise the pylon and removing two bolts and installing one to lower it. Depending on how often you use it, that might be acceptable.

    Last edited by cab13367; 09-23-2009 at 03:21 AM.
    Al

    2006 Mobius LSV

  6. #36
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Tigard, Oregon
    Posts
    3,016

    Default

    I may do it this winter. I don't use the pylon very often and I have had a couple of people hurt themselves on it in the past (stubbing their toe or accidentally sitting on it) so it would be nice to be able to tuck it away.
    Al

    2006 Mobius LSV

  7. #37
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Terre Haute, IN
    Posts
    272

    Default

    I know this is a old post but I thought I would ask and see if anyone ever did this. I was interested in doing this since we don't use it and we normally have little kids in the boat.
    2006 Mobius LSV

  8. #38
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Vicksburg, MI
    Posts
    574

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by cab13367 View Post
    Thought I would take a stab at this. I've pasted the pic below for reference. Please ignore the notes on the pic. The ski pylon is held in place by the bolt you see in the pic plus one underneath that you don't see. So the two points of attachment keep it rigid when in use. So how about if we drilled two new holes in the square tube, along the same vertical plane as the existing bolt hole, but one near the top of the square tube and one near the bottom. Then drill and thread two corresponding, horizontal holes in the pylon for the bolts to screw into. The existing bolt you see in the pic can now be removed and abandoned as it's now unnecessary. The two new bolts (one near the top and one near the bottom of the square tube) will now hold the pylon securely in place in the up position so we can remove the bolt underneath the pylon and cut the bottom of the square tube open.

    For the lowered position, remove the two bolts, slide the pylon down so the top threaded hole in the pylon now lines up with the bottom hole on the square tube. Insert a bolt here and tighten. This one bolt is enough to hold the pylon in the down position and snugly against the square tube.

    You'll have to do some measuring before drilling the new holes to make sure the top of the pylon is flush with the sun pad in the lowered position.

    There are some emissions control electronics directly under the ski pylon but it looked liked they could easily be relocated. I think you'd need to in order for the pylon to lower enough and be flush with the top of the sun pad.

    So it will require removing one bolt and installing two to raise the pylon and removing two bolts and installing one to lower it. Depending on how often you use it, that might be acceptable.

    If you remove the existing bolt (from above quote), you lose the latch for the engine hatch.
    Joe

    2014 LSV
    2010 Outback V - Sold

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