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  1. #21
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
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    Sylvan Lake, Alberta
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    I have their older version of cans, and YES the hollow points will fit because that is what I upgraded mine too.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Keuka Lake, NY
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    5,765

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    Al, How are double ups wired normally.? also that is a good to know on the power if i were to jump from speaker A to B. I will check with a meter the current. I could split it as it comes out of the tower instead of split at the amp( the four wire model) so they get the same current equally and still run parallel at 2 ohms. I deally i should add another amp, i want a new HU first.

    thx for all the comments
    A Day at the Lake...Priceless
    A Day in Powder...Endless


    Joe V
    2012 Möbius XLV~ Loaded & Exiled
    2007 Outback V ~ sold

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    California
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    2,840

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    Running parallel that way is a very common way to do it. In fact if you look at pre-made harnesses made for towers you'll notice that most if not all will only have two pairs in addition to wires for lighting, etc. If you were to take it to a pro audio place i'll bet they'd do it the same way as well. When i took delivery of mine at the dealer the towers were hooked up the same way.
    2007 Mobius LSV

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Tigard, Oregon
    Posts
    3,016

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    Quote Originally Posted by jmvotto View Post
    Al, How are double ups wired normally.? also that is a good to know on the power if i were to jump from speaker A to B. I will check with a meter the current. I could split it as it comes out of the tower instead of split at the amp( the four wire model) so they get the same current equally and still run parallel at 2 ohms. I deally i should add another amp, i want a new HU first.

    thx for all the comments
    jm,

    The quote and illustration below is from http://www.termpro.com/articles/spkrz.html:

    "Figure 2A shows how to wire a pair of speakers in parallel. A wire from the positive terminal of one channel of the amp is wired to the positive terminals on speakers A and B. (The simplest way to do this is to run a wire from the amp terminal to Speaker A and then run a second wire from that terminal to Speaker B.) Then the negative terminal of the same amp channel is wired in like fashion to the negative terminals on both speakers. The second channel is wired the same way."



    So it sounds like it's okay to just connect the "+" and the "-" terminals from the first speaker to the second which razz says was the way his was wired from the factory. If it was me, I would still run a second pair of wires from the amp to the second speaker so that the speaker wire doesn't become a bottleneck. But that's just me.

    Al
    Al

    2006 Mobius LSV

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    De Pere WI
    Posts
    4,141

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    Quote Originally Posted by cab13367 View Post


    So it sounds like it's okay to just connect the "+" and the "-" terminals from the first speaker to the second which razz says was the way his was wired from the factory. If it was me, I would still run a second pair of wires from the amp to the second speaker so that the speaker wire doesn't become a bottleneck. But that's just me.

    Al
    mine are wired the same way on the tower. it came that way from skiers..

    running 2 extra sets of wire is overkill if you are using a good quality 16gauge or better speaker wire(not lamp wire from home depot).
    some think you need to buy the best/biggest/most expensive wire you can, but if you look at the leads coming off the speaker terminals, anything more than that is really overkill. good quality stranded 16 gauge will work for most all car audio door/dash applications(12 gauge on the sub channel). just make sure that you have a good solid connection at each speaker. that's where your signal loss will happen. a good solder joint is the best way, especially in a boat with all the abuse and pounding it takes.

    it's funny, I just got my JL 12w6v3 for my new sub. the +/- terminals will accept up to a 4gauge wire, but then you look at the factory wires that are used for jumping the voicecoils together and they are using a good quality stranded 16gauge.. I can't imagine how many have spent $$ buying wire that they don't need. 12gauge is plenty good for a power-hungry sub.
    Last edited by sandm; 10-31-2009 at 11:19 AM.
    '06 Supra Launch 20SSV-gone but never forgotten

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    Location
    Sylvan Lake, Alberta
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    473

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    In my experience, you rarely wire speakers in series. The most common time to do this is on subwoofers with dual voice coils when you are trying to acheive a specific load for an amp.

    In most cases you wire in parallel. Wiring in parallel will lower the ohm load placed on the amp by 1/2, essentially getting apx double the power out of the same amp. Any amp worth putting in your boat will run at 2 ohms just fine. The pioneer amp I used for my tower speakers is close to 9 years old now (Ouch) and it ran subwoofers at 2 ohm loads (I even had it run comp subs at 2 ohms bridged) for years and now I've got it in my boat and it's running the towers at 2 ohms very nicely.

    Now I have some of the Bullet HLCD's but I don't think I'll have a chance to hear them behind the boat till next season.

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Tigard, Oregon
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    3,016

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    Quote Originally Posted by 501 View Post
    In my experience, you rarely wire speakers in series. The most common time to do this is on subwoofers with dual voice coils when you are trying to acheive a specific load for an amp.

    In most cases you wire in parallel. Wiring in parallel will lower the ohm load placed on the amp by 1/2, essentially getting apx double the power out of the same amp. Any amp worth putting in your boat will run at 2 ohms just fine. The pioneer amp I used for my tower speakers is close to 9 years old now (Ouch) and it ran subwoofers at 2 ohm loads (I even had it run comp subs at 2 ohms bridged) for years and now I've got it in my boat and it's running the towers at 2 ohms very nicely.

    Now I have some of the Bullet HLCD's but I don't think I'll have a chance to hear them behind the boat till next season.
    Agreed. I have an older Sony 4x50 that I am running 8 speakers with so each channel is seeing a 2 ohm load and it works just fine although I could use a little more power. Yes, the power output of your amp increases when you run a 2 vs a 4 ohm load (but not quite double - mine increases from 50 to 65W per channel) but remember that the amp is pushing that power to two speakers per channel so each speaker would get 1/2 of the output.

    I didn't realize that you can hook the speakers together in parallel so I ran speaker wire from each speaker all the way back to the amp.

    FYI, my two rear cabin speakers were wired this way to the head unit's amp from the factory - i.e., they ran wire from each speaker all the way back to the head unit instead of wiring the two speakers together.
    Al

    2006 Mobius LSV

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Pacific NW USA
    Posts
    505

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    oh geez. just read this book of a thread. something tells me I'm going to have to take you guys through some audio 101 at our Moomba Jam in Portland. I'll do a nice post later... to tired at the moment. -Brian

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