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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Claytor Lake, VA
    Posts
    301

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    water def drains out the dripless seal. the line on mine empties every time I raise the boat in the lift.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Tigard, Oregon
    Posts
    3,016

    Default

    Some of you have asked for just the text of the winterizing instructions so here it is.

    Winterizing Instructions for 2006 Moomba Mobius LSV
    (other years and models may vary)

    A. Put Sta-Bil in fuel, 1 ounce per 2.5 gallons so 16 ounces for a full tank (40 gallons).
    B. Run the boat on a body of water for at least 10-15 minutes to get the engine oil nice and hot. Drive it back on the trailer and with the engine still running, remove the spark arrester (held in place by a large hose clamp). Spray 4-6 ounces of fogging oil into the throttle body then shut off engine immediately. Replace flame arrester.
    C. Let the boat sit 5 - 10 minutes to let the oil cool a little. Drain/Change the oil and oil filter (I use a Fram PH30 filter and Shell Rotella T 15W40, crankcase capacity is 5.5 quarts including filter). I did this at the boat ramp parking lot as it’s a 30 minute drive back to the house and the oil would cool off too much by then. Best method I found is to use a fluid extractor (Pela 6000 worked great for me) and suck it out of the oil drain hose, not the dipstick tube. This way, you know you are sucking it out of the low point of the oil pan since the oil drain hose is attached to the oil pan where the oil pan drain plug would normally be.
    D. Drain all water from the block and hoses as follows: (note that for the purpose of this write up, aft is the end of the engine closest to the transom of the boat and fore is the end closest to the bow).

    From port side of engine:
    1) Separate the exhaust manifold hoses by separating the hose fitting. The two hoses come together at the fore end of the engine, on the port side. Disconnecting the two hoses drains the two manifolds.
    2) Remove the port engine block plug using a 9/16” socket.
    3) Remove the plug underneath the muffler, on the port side using a 3/8” socket. Use a container to catch the water so it doesn’t drain onto the carpet.
    4) Disconnect the bottom of the "J" hose where it connects to the water recirc pump.


    From the starboard side of the engine:
    5) Remove the starboard engine block plug using a 9/16” socket.
    6) Disconnect and drain the two hoses attached to the water pump which is attached to the main pulley on the aft end of the engine. Use a 5/16” nut driver on the hose clamps.
    7) Remove the impeller from the water pump using a 5/16” nut driver to remove the impeller housing cover. Access to impeller is improved if you remove the small, fixed engine access cover towards the back of the boat, on the starboard side. Use needle nose vise grips to carefully remove impeller. Stick one jaw between the impeller blades and the other into the middle of the impeller, all the way in. Carefully pull out impeller. I like using vise grip needle nose pliers because the jaws stay parallel and therefore, grab better. Coat the impeller with Vaseline and put it in an airtight (ziplock) bag. If the impeller is two years old, replace it with a new one. It’s a Johnson Pump impeller, part # 09-812B-1. Be careful not to overtighten the impeller cover screws as they are fairly soft.

    From the v-drive:

    Remove the two (2) plugs on the v-drive unit, one on the front on the port side, the other on the rear on the starboard side. Both plugs are pretty high up on the v-drive housing. A 7/16” closed end wrench fits perfectly on the square head plug. The front is a vent plug and you might not get any water out of it.
    9) Remove and drain the water intake hose at the v-drive.
    10) Drain the ballast system as follows:
    (a) Disconnect and drain the hoses at the solenoids using the quick disconnects on the hoses. Watch for rubber o-rings and make sure they don’t fall out.
    (b) Remove water strainer and drain. Clean strainer if dirty. Be careful when putting the strainer it has to properly seat on the top and on the bottom. Don’t leave this to chance – look at the top of the stainer when screwing it back on to make sure it lines up correctly.
    (c) Disconnect and drain the bags, then put one capful of bleach in them to prevent mold.

    E) Remove each spark plug and spray fogging oil into each cylinder for about 2 – 3 seconds. Spray a little fogging oil on the spark plug hole threads. With all the spark plugs still out, bump the starter for 1 second to evenly coat the cylinder walls with the fogging oil. Reinstall the spark plugs. You should be able to turn them by hand all the way until they seat. Tighten with a ratchet and spark plug socket.

    I leave the hoses disconnected and the drain plugs out over the winter. I put a little grease on the threads on the block and the v-drive unit as they will become rusty over the winter and the plugs will be difficult to install in the spring if you don’t.

    If you drain the water with the boat in your garage, be aware that enough water is drained out of the block and hoses that the bilge pump will probably kick on.
    Al

    2006 Mobius LSV

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Eugene OR
    Posts
    1,712

    Default

    Al,
    Thank you for the text version.

    For people with a heater i have included pictures below.

    NOTE: This is from a 08 OBV

    NOTE: The first picture the bottom of the picture is to the bow. The Second two pictures are the same in that the left side of the picture goes to the bow of the boat.

    The heater has two hoses

    The first hose is connected to the block right next to the dip stick. Just undo the hose clamp twist and pull. WARNING: If the block is hot then hot water will come out. You can see the hose clamp in the first picture by looking down the dip stick.

    The second hose is in the back of the engine (Closest part of the engine to the swim platform). It is the hose going from the middle bottom of the picture too about center of the picture. It is the same size hose as the first one. It is also a hose clamp so just undo the hose clamp, twist and pull.


    The last picture below is the hoses coming from the bow of the boat. They are the two hoses at the bottom of the picture that are zip tied together. The first hose comes up in about 3/4 of the way to the right of the picture.


    You can take your mouth and blow air into one of the hoses until all the water is out.
    2008 Outback V
    “Do not wait; the time will never be “just right.” Start where you stand, and work with whatever tools you may have at your command, and better tools will be found as you go along." -Napoleon Hill

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Arkansas
    Posts
    651

    Default

    If one doesnt have a fresh water strainer I would recommend checking/cleaning the Transmisson cooler at least annually. There is a screen in there and can get blocked.

    It is a easy mod to added a fresh water strainer. It was one of my first mods and glad I did it. Do search for fresh water stainer to see the before/after. The parts were less then $70. Here is a link to my project thread http://www.moomba.com/msgboard/showthread.php?t=7597

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