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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Jun 2008
    Location
    Bellevue, Wa.
    Posts
    31

    Default Why go through all of this trouble?

    Why are you going to all of this trouble? Indmar's instructions for winterizing the engine are to drain the block and manifolds and leave the plugs out. I do that plus drain the shower and heater, lubricate the threads so that they will not rust and have never had any problems. I get 2 or 3 good freezes each winter and store the boat outside. Not only is it just as fast if you are doing a total winterization but you do not have to dispose of any anti freeze. Even if it is biodegradable you can't just dump it into the lake.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Olathe Colorado
    Posts
    217

    Default

    Nibots,Most of December and all of January it has not been above freezing... 35-40 feels like t shirt weather now. the cost of reparing freeze plugs and the time to fix broken lines where water setteled, after being drained. No thanx. I am not sure that the antifreeze dose not take less time than pulling all the plugs and blowing out the lines. Its just extra insurance. 30$ and a hour for the extra protection, sign me up.

  3. #13
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    colorado
    Posts
    692

    Default

    i have a setup similar to Deerfield, copied most of his. however, i setup to recirculate everything, catching the water from the driveshaft and the exhaust, speeds up the warmup time and avods waste/disposal of antifreeze.

    i do tha antifreeze for similar reasons to aintskeerd, also so that i can go out for a ride on a good day in the winter, then have the boat re winterized in minutes. i do store in my garage which rarely gets freezing temps.

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Montana
    Posts
    2,309

    Default

    In the process of putting this system together. One modification is I'm using a flexible rubber coupler on the Exhaust instead which eliminates the need to sand out the PVC coupler for fit. Also adding a second tub for a Shaft catch basin as well to eliminate as much waste as possible.
    I'll make sure to take pics as I get it all put together.

    Deerfield,
    Is that just Hot Tub hose you have running from the catch basin to the intake? How much (length in feet) do you suppose you have?
    2007 Moomba Outback - waiting for summer!

    Why Not? Play Hard! Get wet

  5. #15
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Richmond, VA
    Posts
    1,803

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by viking View Post
    Deerfield, Is that just Hot Tub hose you have running from the catch basin to the intake? How much (length in feet) do you suppose you have?
    viking - The hose was on a spool at Home Depot, marked for swimming pool use. Whatever you buy, it must be rigid to withstand water pump draw and prevent collapse. I do not rev the engine during the winterization process. Let it idle as it warms up to operating temperature. Then continue to let it run, ensuring the thermostat opens and full circulation through the engine, exhaust, and heater core takes place. I measured the hose. It is 16 feet in length. - deerfield
    2007 Outback
    2012 RAM Crew Cab
    2015 Subaru Forester
    Stuart

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Aug 2010
    Location
    OC Oregon
    Posts
    88

    Default

    With my last boat I would just warm it using a fake a lake then I would take the hose off the raw water intake and put it in a 5gal bucket of "Friendly" antifreeze. Start the boat, as the bucket empties I would fog the carb, shut it off and be done. The straight anitfreeze mixed with the water in the block gave me the freeze protection I needed (the first couple of times I would take out one of the block plugs to check the freeze protection). I never drained the water first. Wouldn't this work for my LSV?

  7. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Oconomowoc, WI
    Posts
    108

    Default

    Looks like an interesting set-up!

    IMO The best freeze protection is absolutely no liquids in the engine or associated parts.

  8. #18
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    London Ontario Canada
    Posts
    1,856

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by 89PROSTAR View Post
    With my last boat I would just warm it using a fake a lake then I would take the hose off the raw water intake and put it in a 5gal bucket of "Friendly" antifreeze. Start the boat, as the bucket empties I would fog the carb, shut it off and be done. The straight anitfreeze mixed with the water in the block gave me the freeze protection I needed (the first couple of times I would take out one of the block plugs to check the freeze protection). I never drained the water first. Wouldn't this work for my LSV?
    NO!!!

    It will work if your thermostat is open at the time (not sure how you can make sure it is ,engine has to be hot 162+ if you have a 162 thermostat)......if its closed then all the antifreeze is going out the exhaust and none in your block......thats why you need to drain your block and exhaust manifold then recirculate the antifreeze thru it.......remember all the liquid in the vdrive, hoses, j hose, heater,exhaust manifold, muffler, that will dilute your antifreeze before you ever get the engine up to a temp where the thermostat will open
    09 21v LAUNCH

    run your engine after you change your oil
    68 th Member. WS420,HSE Revolution, OJ 466, Acme1157,1100 sacs,Kicker HLCD's n IX500.4, Supra Coolies
    Doug

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2002
    Location
    London Ontario Canada
    Posts
    1,856

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by aintskeered View Post
    Deerfield, I built on very simular to yours for my LSV, I also modified my ballest fill pump so I can pump the antifreeze through all of the ballest lines and out the empty pumps for the ballest bags, I built a double ended connector for the ballest bags. Instead of going through the bag, the lines just hook together and dump out the over fill. I have a shower on mine also so had to run it. The one problem I had was the v-drive shaft dumps quite alot of antifreeze onto the ground. Did you find something or some way to collect that water. I used a shallow funnel and clear tube (Lots of duct tape) to return it to the bucket where the exhaust was dumping. Also I used RV antifreeze for there fresh water systems instead of regular antifreeze. Makes me real nervous every year but so far so good. Its been ugly cold here this winter guess I will see.
    You have the dripless shaft seal, just clamp the hose going to it and none will come out the shaft.......when your done unclamp the hose and most of the exhaust manifold w antifreeeze will drain out the shaft where you can recover it
    09 21v LAUNCH

    run your engine after you change your oil
    68 th Member. WS420,HSE Revolution, OJ 466, Acme1157,1100 sacs,Kicker HLCD's n IX500.4, Supra Coolies
    Doug

  10. #20
    Join Date
    May 2007
    Location
    Richmond, VA
    Posts
    1,803

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by DOCDRS View Post
    You have the dripless shaft seal, just clamp the hose going to it and none will come out the shaft.......when your done unclamp the hose and most of the exhaust manifold w antifreeeze will drain out the shaft where you can recover it
    DOC - Excellent observation and suggestion. I will do that. Thanks. - Deerfield
    2007 Outback
    2012 RAM Crew Cab
    2015 Subaru Forester
    Stuart

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